Innovating Religious Dress

2019 ◽  
pp. 119-153
Author(s):  
Lynn S. Neal

This chapter examines how fashion designers used Catholic religious dress—the attire of priests, monks, and nuns—to inspire and innovate their designs. This ecclesiastical trend expanded fashion’s use and materialization of religion, constituting another step in placing the divine on designer garments. The chapter first addresses how the uniform of Catholic religious became fashionable in the mid-twentieth century. It then investigates the work of specific designers, such as the Fontana sisters, Rudi Gernreich, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Walter Holmes, who catapulted this trend to popularity in the late 1960s amid a changing American religious landscape. The chapter examines the re-emergence of this trend in the late 1980s and early 1990s. In both time periods, the construction of the designers’ personal biographies and their fashion aesthetics fostered the celebration of some collections and the criticism of others. The chapter concludes with an emphasis on how fashion focused people’s attention on the visual and material experience of religion.

Author(s):  
Alvin Ping Leong

AbstractDiachronic studies on scientific writing have indicated an increase in the use of passives from the seventeenth to the twentieth century. With the current shift in focus towards making scientific writing more accessible, there is less certainty on the extent of passive use in the modern era. Although the use of the active voice is presently encouraged, the findings from available studies are mixed. There are also few diachronic studies involving recent articles. This present study investigated the trend in passive use from the nineteenth century to the present day using 80 articles from a multidisciplinary science journal covering four time periods (1880, 1930, 1980, and 2017). The study found that the extent of passive use was stable from 1880 to 1980 (occurring in about 29–36% of all clauses) but declined in 2017 (averaging below 25%). The study also found a decline in the use of finite passives to describe methodological actions and a corresponding increase in the use of first-person pronouns in the 2017 articles. Further work involving a larger corpus and an understanding of writer decisions in the composing process is needed.


Author(s):  
David Maxwell

The chapter examines conversion to Christianity, one of the most significant social and cultural transformations in twentieth-century Africa. The focus is upon the role of Christianity in African society, with emphasis on the making of identities of class, ethnicity, gender, generation, and nation. The diversity of African Christianity is examined in terms of both the range of African societies it encountered and the spectrum of changing mission Christianities, which extend back as far as the late fifteenth century. Scholarship has been advanced through a greater sensitivity to missionary and African literary production as well as increasing use of photographic data. Growing interest in African cultural history has caused scholars to shift emphasis away from missionaries and their institutions towards an interest in what Christianity meant for ordinary adherents, including the mental transformations involved in conversion and the significance of baptism, pilgrimage, and the religious landscape.


2006 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 261-293
Author(s):  
John Young

AbstractWhile summits are well served in the literature on diplomacy, the focus tends to be on specific, high-profile occasions such as Munich and Yalta or on the broad experience of multilateral conferences. Such approaches may obscure the full range of summits that were taking place by the later twentieth century. By focusing on a four-year period in the experience of a particular leader, this article provides a case study of summitry, which might serve as the basis for comparisons with other countries and time periods. It draws out the frequency, type and geographical range of summits experienced by Edward Heath as British premier and, in doing so, also raises issues about how types of summits are defined, the relationship between bilateral and multilateral meetings and the way that summitry has evolved as a diplomatic practice. In particular it emerges that summits were frequent and ofen perfunctory affairs, sometimes held as a simple courtesy to leaders who were passing through London. In this sense the British experience may have been unusual, but it is also evident from the number of Heath's interlocutors and the multilateral conferences that he attended that summits had become an integral part of political life for world leaders in the jet age.


Tahiti ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 10 (4) ◽  
Author(s):  
Carlos Idrobo

What does the observation of people walking have to do with interpreting paintings or other artworks, past or present? Can an old painting be ‘activated’ or invite the viewer to participate and experience it more actively? In this paper, I discuss some examples in which my own art research practice has found in bodily movements unexpected sources and ways to interpret paintings of the nineteenth and twentieth century, useful for expanding the analysis and understanding of the events in images. In this sense, I challenge the contemporary idea of an explicit viewer activating an artwork by exploring its utility when engaging art pieces of other time periods. I argue, without proposing a formula valid for every form of art, that bodily experiences like walking, observation exercises of bodies in motion, and even dance, might have a hermeneutical value when interrogating artworks. This approach offers new challenging ways of practicing art historical research and it encourages researchers to recognise these bodily experiences within the frame of their academic discourse.


Author(s):  
Oksana Poltavets-Guida

The purpose of the article is to consider the graphic works of V. Poltavets-illustrator in the context of the development of book printing in Ukraine in the second half of the twentieth century, conduct a comparative analysis of the development of this industry in different eras, and identify their relationship. The methodology of the article is based on the chronological method of historical research, the biographical method, the method of observing the artist’s practical activities in different time periods, the method of analyzing works of art. The scientific novelty consists in the chronological systematization and comparative analysis of typography and graphic art in different historical periods, the study of the continuity of traditions and innovation in art, their interrelation, and a sequential examination of the creative heritage of the famous artist. Conclusion. The analysis shows a high level of development of publishing in Ukraine, the presence of art school and talented illustrators, indicates insufficient scientific coverage of this topic.


Itinerario ◽  
1986 ◽  
Vol 10 (1) ◽  
pp. 145-162
Author(s):  
B.R. Tomlinson

Discussing the issue of foreign investment in colonial economies, such as those of India and Indonesia, in the first half of the twentieth century gives rise to a number of problems. In addition to the obvious difficulties of data collection there are also complex conceptual and definitional issues. The aim of this paper is to set out what we know about the quantities and performance of foreign investment in the two economies, and to use this information to draw more general conclusions about the economic history of the two areas. In analysing the material only those lines which seem to offer a genuinem comparative perspective will be followed. We are interested in those aspects of the history of foreign investment in India which can tell us something about the history of foreign investment in Indonesia, and vice versa. It is convenient to split the subject into two time periods, 1920-38 and 1945-60.


Author(s):  
Scott D. Haddow ◽  
Joshua W. Sadvari ◽  
Christopher J. Knüsel ◽  
Sophie V. Moore ◽  
Selin E. Nugent ◽  
...  

Çatalhöyük is most well known for its Neolithic settlement, but the site also served as a cemetery during the Bronze Age, as well as the Roman, Byzantine, and Islamic periods. During the Neolithic, Çatalhöyük is distinctive as a place for both the living and the dead, but thereafter the site becomes more closely associated with the dead. This chapter discusses four examples of non-normative burials from different time periods at the site, including two Neolithic burials: one of a mature male buried with a sheep and another of a young male with a congenital deformity; a Roman period double burial with an atypical grave orientation; and an isolated twentieth-century burial of a woman from the local village, which represents the last known burial on the mound. Osteobiographical information and sociocultural context are used to assess the significance of each burial. We also question how normative and non-normative burials are typically defined in the archaeological record.


Author(s):  
Tina Bucuvalas ◽  
Stavros K. Frangos

Members of the diaspora brought with them to America a taste for all the extrapolations of music in Greece. During the early twentieth century, a flood of immigration combined with commercial record production generated unparalleled documentation of ethnic music. Ethnic recordings are invaluable documents of community musical practices and preferences in America. They also represented the daily lives of Greek immigrants and the perils that afflicted them. This chapter examines the major events and social issues affecting Greeks in America within the context of various time periods (1880-1918, 1918-1933, 1933-1945, 1945-1960, 1960-1975, 1975-1990, 1990-2015), as well as the major trends in musical genre, style, venues, artists, and technology.


Costume ◽  
2007 ◽  
Vol 41 (1) ◽  
pp. 83-98 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anthea Jarvis

The basis for this article was a paper given at the Annual Symposium of the Costume Society in Norwich in 1998, on the theme of religious dress. It has been expanded with further research. This article traces the history and development of special dress worn for the sacraments of confirmation and first communion in the Church of England and the Roman Catholic Church. Before the 1850s no special dress was required; the growth of the fashion for increasingly elaborate white dresses and veils post-1850 seems to have been fostered by the growing affluence of the middle classes and by the fashion press. Special dress for Anglican confirmation declined in popularity in the later twentieth century, while dress for Catholic first communion, in contrast, has become, like dress for weddings, an occasion for an orgy of consumerism.


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