scholarly journals The influence of Ukrainian embroidery on the fashion of the 60s of the twentieth century

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anastasia Varyvonchyk
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Art History ◽  
Cultural Education ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
The Past ◽  
Domestic Science ◽  
Women's Clothing ◽  
Technology Industry ◽  
Personal Contribution ◽  
Fashion Designers

The purpose of the article is to highlight a little-studied problem in domestic science, which is associated with the production of fashionable clothing and the use of traditional Ukrainian embroidery in the 60s of the twentieth century. The methodology is based on the principles of historical, art history, culturological analysis, and methods of systematization of factual material and typological analysis. The personal contribution of fashion designers in the rise of artistic embroidery in the 60s of the twentieth century is revealed. The scientific novelty lies in the disclosure of historical sources, artifacts that testify to the presence of ornamental embroidered elements in the decoration of Ukrainian women's clothing of this period. The production of clothes with embroidery on the territory of Ukraine is connected with shops, artel, and industrial productions. The state of Ukrainian embroidery with the use of modern fashion trends in the clothing of the 60s of the twentieth century is analyzed. Conclusions. Having conducted a study of fashion trends in Ukrainian clothing of the 60s of the twentieth century. and summarizing the art of its production, we can note the following: the production of compositionally completed collections of contemporary clothing, developed through the efforts of creative associations of fashion houses, light, and local industry, taking into account national Ukrainian traditions, took place to meet the demand of growing population and its cultural education. The implementation and realization of exquisite masterful, thematic ideas coordinated and directed the activities of the garment, textile, and knitwear industries. The national costume and its stylized elements with traditional motifs of Ukrainian embroidery attracted special and great attention to the fashion of the past times of the XX century. Key words: embroidery, clothes, technology, industry, fashion designers.

scholarly journals Māori Urban Migrations and Identities, ‘Ko Ngā Iwi Nuku Whenua’: A study of Urbanisation in the Wellington Region during the Twentieth Century

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Erin Keenan
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Urban Areas ◽  
Urban Migration ◽  
World War ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
The Past ◽  
Complex Interactions ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Many ◽  
Migration Experiences

<p>Māori urbanisation and urban migrations have been the subject of much discussion and research, especially following World War Two when Māori individuals, whānau and communities increasingly became residents of towns and cities that were overwhelmingly Pākehā populated. However, Māori urbanisation experiences and urban migrations are difficult topics to address because kaumātua are reluctant to discuss ‘urban Māori’, especially considering its implications for Māori identities. The original contribution this thesis makes to histories of Māori urban migrations is that it explores these and other understandings of urbanisations to discover some of their historical influences. By discussing urbanisations directly with kaumātua and exploring historical sources of Māori living in, and moving to, the urban spaces of Wellington and the Hutt Valley through the twentieth century, this thesis is a ‘meeting place’ for a range of perspectives on the meanings of urbanisations from the past and the present. Although urbanisation was an incredible time of material change for the individuals and whānau who chose to move into cities such as Wellington, the histories of urban migration experiences exist within a scope of Māori and iwi worldviews that gave rise to multiple experiences and understandings of urbanisations. The Wellington region is used to show that Māori in towns and cities used Māori social and cultural forms in urban areas so that they could, through the many challenges of becoming urban-dwelling, ensure the persistence of their Māoritanga. Urbanisations also allowed Māori to both use traditional identities in urban areas, as well as develop new relationships modelled on kinship. The Ngāti Pōneke community is used as an example of the complex interactions between these identities and how many Māori became active residents in but not conceptually ‘of’ cities. As a result, the multiple and layered Māori identities that permeate throughout Māori experiences of the present and the past are important considerations in approaching and discussing urbanisations. Urban Māori communities have emphasised the significance of varied and layered Māori identities, and this became particularly pronounced through the Māori urban migrations of the twentieth century.</p>

Enslavement and Everyday Life: Living with Slave Raiding in the North-Eastern Mandara Mountains of Cameroon

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Scott MacEachern
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Everyday Life ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
Social Proximity ◽  
Archaeological Data ◽  
The Past ◽  
The North ◽  
North Eastern ◽  
Economic Process

The northern Mandara Mountains of Cameroon have been a focus of slave raiding for the past five centuries, according to historical sources. Some captives from the area were enslaved locally, primarily in Wandala and Fulbe communities, while others were exported to Sahelian polities or further abroad. This chapter examines ethnohistorical and archaeological data on nineteenth- and twentieth-century slave raiding, derived from research in montagnard communities along the north-eastern Mandara Mountains of Cameroon. Enslavement and slave raiding existed within larger structures of day-to-day practice in the region, and were closely tied to ideas about sociality, social proximity and violence. Through the mid-1980s at least, enslavement in the region was understood as a still-relevant political and economic process, with its chief material consequence the intensely domesticated Mandara landscape.

Introduction

Sweet Thing ◽  
2021 ◽  
pp. 1-26
Author(s):  
Nicholas Stoia
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Popular Music ◽  
Musical Structure ◽  
Substantial Variation ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
Deep Roots ◽  
The Past ◽  
Vernacular Music ◽  
Musical Characteristics ◽  
Different Sources

This chapter introduces the “Sweet Thing” scheme through postwar popular music, and defines a scheme as a shared musical structure with predetermined constraints and allowances. The “Sweet Thing” scheme is the result of the intertwining of various musical components of many different sources, some with very deep roots in the past, which penetrated many genres of American vernacular music. With the advent of radio and the phonograph in the early twentieth century—and especially with the widespread circulation of blues, country, and gospel records—the various components of these older forms grouped together and intertwined in different ways, resulting in a number of hybrids and variants. It is this cluster of twentieth-century variants that I call the “Sweet Thing” scheme. Defining its musical characteristics in a way flexible enough to accommodate its substantial variation and exploring the historical sources for its musical attributes are the subjects of this book.

Exhibition History and the Institution as a Medium

2015 ◽  
Vol 1 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stefano Collicelli Cagol
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Art History ◽  
Historical Narratives ◽  
The Past ◽  
Exhibition History ◽  
The Future ◽  
History Of ◽  
Recent Debate ◽  
The Relationship

The recent debate on the relationship between histories of exhibition and art history tends to consider the former as supplementary to the latter. While it is certainly not the case that art history of the second half of the twentieth century should be reduced to a history of exhibitions—given the variety of contexts in which artists have operated—exhibition histories should likewise not be addressed only to enrich art historical narratives, or be selected according to their relationship to an art historical canon. In fact, exhibition histories provide critical tools to approach history in itself: by revealing cultural debates of the past, they help retracing histories of ideas; their expanded field highlights the connections between art and other realms, such as commerce, and they reveal politics and policies of an institution, stressing the latter in order to create a narrative to understand the present and imagine the future.

scholarly journals The Effect of Social, Culture and Economy of Dampelas during Dutch and Banawa Hegemony

2015 ◽  
Vol 2 (2) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Lukman Nadjamuddin
Keyword(s):  
Nineteenth Century ◽  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Forest Products ◽  
Late Nineteenth Century ◽  
Economic Aspects ◽  
Colonial Power ◽  
Social Culture ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
The Past ◽  
Late Nineteenth

This research tries to express that a problem of competition over Dampelas land must be seen in the context, namely the land is a combination of social, `~ cultural and economic aspects. Historical sources for this research are consisted in some archives, contemporary newspapers, journals and research rapports. The aim of it is to explain that Dampelas as a part of <em>Afdeling van Midden Celebes </em>in the past was under control of two powers, namely Banawa in Donggala and the Dutch colonial power, based in Makassar, then Manado. In the late nineteenth century and the early twentieth century, Dampelas was a strategic punt for the Dutch position in Banawa. Dutch tried to take over a control of all forest products in Dampelas, without any concession for local natives. Under King Lamarauna, the Dutch annexed Dampelas without any cost and ruled it as autonomy of Banawa. Lord of Dampelas got a freedom for ruling his land.

scholarly journals Māori Urban Migrations and Identities, ‘Ko Ngā Iwi Nuku Whenua’: A study of Urbanisation in the Wellington Region during the Twentieth Century

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
◽  
Erin Keenan
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Urban Areas ◽  
Urban Migration ◽  
World War ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
The Past ◽  
Complex Interactions ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Many ◽  
Migration Experiences

<p>Māori urbanisation and urban migrations have been the subject of much discussion and research, especially following World War Two when Māori individuals, whānau and communities increasingly became residents of towns and cities that were overwhelmingly Pākehā populated. However, Māori urbanisation experiences and urban migrations are difficult topics to address because kaumātua are reluctant to discuss ‘urban Māori’, especially considering its implications for Māori identities. The original contribution this thesis makes to histories of Māori urban migrations is that it explores these and other understandings of urbanisations to discover some of their historical influences. By discussing urbanisations directly with kaumātua and exploring historical sources of Māori living in, and moving to, the urban spaces of Wellington and the Hutt Valley through the twentieth century, this thesis is a ‘meeting place’ for a range of perspectives on the meanings of urbanisations from the past and the present. Although urbanisation was an incredible time of material change for the individuals and whānau who chose to move into cities such as Wellington, the histories of urban migration experiences exist within a scope of Māori and iwi worldviews that gave rise to multiple experiences and understandings of urbanisations. The Wellington region is used to show that Māori in towns and cities used Māori social and cultural forms in urban areas so that they could, through the many challenges of becoming urban-dwelling, ensure the persistence of their Māoritanga. Urbanisations also allowed Māori to both use traditional identities in urban areas, as well as develop new relationships modelled on kinship. The Ngāti Pōneke community is used as an example of the complex interactions between these identities and how many Māori became active residents in but not conceptually ‘of’ cities. As a result, the multiple and layered Māori identities that permeate throughout Māori experiences of the present and the past are important considerations in approaching and discussing urbanisations. Urban Māori communities have emphasised the significance of varied and layered Māori identities, and this became particularly pronounced through the Māori urban migrations of the twentieth century.</p>

EPITAFIES OF THE RELATIVES OF HADJI IBRAHIM AL-URADI AS A SOURCE ON THE BIOGRAPHY OF THE SCIENTIST AND ON THE HISTORY OF GIDATL

2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (4) ◽  
pp. 13-21
Author(s):  
Sh M Khapizov ◽  
M G Shekhmagomedov
Keyword(s):  
18Th Century ◽  
Medieval History ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
The Past ◽  
Arabic Script ◽  
History Of ◽  
History Of Culture ◽  
The Look ◽  
Cultural Monuments ◽  
Written Sources

The article is devoted to the study of inscriptions on the gravestones of Haji Ibrahim al-Uradi, his father, brothers and other relatives. The information revealed during the translation of these inscriptions allows one to date important events from the history of Highland Dagestan. Also we can reconsider the look at some important events from the past of Hidatl. Epitaphs are interesting in and of themselves, as historical and cultural monuments that needed to be studied and attributed. Research of epigraphy data monuments clarifies periodization medieval epitaphs mountain Dagestan using record templates and features of the Arabic script. We see the study of medieval epigraphy as one of the important tasks of contemporary Caucasian studies facing Dagestani researchers. Given the relatively weak illumination of the picture of events of that period in historical sources, comprehensive work in this direction can fill gaps in our knowledge of the medieval history of Dagestan. In addition, these epigraphs are of great importance for researchers of onomastics, linguistics, the history of culture and religion of Dagestan. The authors managed to clarify the date of death of Ibrahim-Haji al-Uradi, as well as his two sons. These data, the attraction of written sources and legends allowed the reconstruction of the events of the second half of the 18th century. For example, because of the epidemic of plague and the death of most of the population of Hidatl, this society noticeably weakened and could no longer maintain its influence on Akhvakh. The attraction of memorable records allowed us to specify the dates of the Ibrahim-Haji pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina, as well as the route through which he traveled to these cities.

Nine Centuries of Man

2017 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
Diverse Range ◽  
Gender Expectations ◽  
Court Records ◽  
The Past ◽  
Wide Range ◽  
Police Reports ◽  
Late Twentieth ◽  
Scottish History ◽  
Late Twentieth Century

What did it mean to be a man in Scotland over the past nine centuries? Scotland, with its stereotypes of the kilted warrior and the industrial ‘hard man’, has long been characterised in masculine terms, but there has been little historical exploration of masculinity in a wider context. This interdisciplinary collection examines a diverse range of the multiple and changing forms of masculinities from the late eleventh to the late twentieth century, exploring the ways in which Scottish society through the ages defined expectations for men and their behaviour. How men reacted to those expectations is examined through sources such as documentary materials, medieval seals, romances, poetry, begging letters, police reports and court records, charity records, oral histories and personal correspondence. Focusing upon the wide range of activities and roles undertaken by men – work, fatherhood and play, violence and war, sex and commerce – the book also illustrates the range of masculinities that affected or were internalised by men. Together, the chapters illustrate some of the ways Scotland’s gender expectations have changed over the centuries and how, more generally, masculinities have informed the path of Scottish history

Modernism Under Review: Hugh Kenner's The Pound Era

2010 ◽  
Vol 5 (2) ◽  
pp. 181-194
Author(s):  
Marjorie Perloff
Keyword(s):  
Twentieth Century ◽  
First World War ◽  
World War ◽  
The Past ◽  
The First World War ◽  
Anglo American ◽  
First World

This essay offers a critical re-assessment of Hugh Kenner's The Pound Era. It argues that Kenner's magisterial survey remains important to our understanding of Modernism, despite its frankly partisan viewpoint. Kenner's is an insider's account of the Anglo-American Modernist writing that he takes to have been significant because it sought to invent a new language consonant with the ethos of the twentieth century. The essay suggests that Kenner's impeccable attention to the Modernist renovation of language goes beyond formalism, since, for him, its ‘patterned energies’ (a term derived from Buckminster Fuller's theory of knots) relate Modernism to the larger complex of artefacts within which it functions and, beyond these, to what he takes to be the great works of the past and to the scientific-technological inventions of the present. But the essay also points out that Kenner's is an eccentric canon, which makes no room for Forster, Frost, Lawrence, or Stevens. Furthermore, Kenner's emphasis on the First World War as a great cultural rupture, while plausible, works less well for Joyce and Williams than it does for Pound and Eliot.

Disciplining Polenta: A Parody on the Politics of Saving Food

2020 ◽  
Vol 20 (2) ◽  
pp. 1-11
Author(s):  
Zachary Nowak ◽  
Bradley M. Jones ◽  
Elisa Ascione
Keyword(s):  
Food Products ◽  
Social Value ◽  
Traditional Food ◽  
Traditional Foods ◽  
Time And Space ◽  
Historical Sources ◽  
Scholarly Literature ◽  
Identity Creation ◽  
The Past ◽  
The Social

This article begins with a parody, a fictitious set of regulations for the production of “traditional” Italian polenta. Through analysis of primary and secondary historical sources we then discuss the various meanings of which polenta has been the bearer through time and space in order to emphasize the mutability of the modes of preparation, ingredients, and the social value of traditional food products. Finally, we situate polenta within its broader cultural, political, and economic contexts, underlining the uses and abuses of rendering foods as traditional—a process always incomplete, often contested, never organic. In stirring up the past and present of polenta and placing it within both the projects of Italian identity creation and the broader scholarly literature on culinary tradition and taste, we emphasize that for so-called traditional foods to be saved, they must be continually reinvented.

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