A Fur Headdress for Women in Sixteenth-Century China

Costume ◽  
2016 ◽  
Vol 50 (1) ◽  
pp. 3-19 ◽  
Author(s):  
Fang Chen
Keyword(s):  
Sixteenth Century ◽  
Social Status ◽  
Luxury Goods ◽  
Late Ming ◽  
The Subject ◽  
High Social Status ◽  
Scholarly Attention

The subject of this paper is a style of fur headdress for women that became fashionable in the sixteenth century and on into the seventeenth, in late Ming China. It has hitherto received little scholarly attention. In Chinese, it is called wotu’er and this can be translated as ‘crouching rabbit’, ‘crouching cottontail’ or ‘crouching lapin’. We know that it was one of the luxury goods of its day, worn as a mark of high social status and wealth. This essay examines the shape of the headdress and how it was worn, as well as its material and price. How long was it in fashion and why did it become fashionable in the first place? The relevance of nomadic dress in influencing women’s garments in the sixteenth century will also be considered, as will the shift in the use of fur from functional to decorative.

Clerical Poverty in Early Sixteenth-Century England: Some East Anglian Evidence

1986 ◽  
Vol 37 (3) ◽  
pp. 389-396 ◽  
Author(s):  
John Pound
Keyword(s):  
Sixteenth Century ◽  
Social Status ◽  
Fifteenth Century ◽  
Average Salary ◽  
The North ◽  
High Social Status

The economic standing of the English parochial clergy in the early sixteenth century has been re-examined recently by Michael Zell, and the evidence at his disposal suggests that many of them were poverty-stricken in the extreme. He points to the large surplus of unendowed curates, chaplains and the like, and to the fact that when employment was available it was neither rewarding, in a monetary sense, nor necessarily secure. Stipends were officially regulated by an early fifteenth-century statute which set a maximum of £5 6s. 8d. per annum, and ‘evidence from all regions of England indicates that very rarely were curates and chaplains given more than that’. It was not uncommon for areas in the north to pay even less than this. In Lancashire, for example, the average salary of about 100 curates and chaplains in 1524 was £2 9s. 6d. In the East Riding of Yorkshire a year later it was £4. On the basis of such evidence, Mr Zell reasonably concludes that the unbeneficed clergy must have found it very difficult to survive, and that ‘the average country priest could not have been a person of high social status’.

scholarly journals Fungsi dan Makna Simbolis Kursi Batu dan Replika Kursi Kayu Pada Masyarakat Nias

2018 ◽  
Vol 16 (1) ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
Dyah Hidayati
Keyword(s):  
Social Status ◽  
The Other ◽  
Symbolic Meaning ◽  
Important Place ◽  
Symbolic Function ◽  
Traditional Leader ◽  
Other Hand ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Observation Method ◽  
High Social Status

AbstractChairs are commonly interpreted as man-made tools for sitting. Others may uniquely assign certain social or religious interpretations upon the shape of a chair. This paper specifically discusses stone chairs and wooden chair replica in Nias, which are represented by findings in South Nias, especially at the villages of Hilimondregeraya, Bawömataluo, dan Hilisimaetanö. Thus, such question of what are the symbolic functions and meanings of stone chairs and wooden chair replica for Nias people from the aspects of materals, ornaments, dimensions, and positioning is the subject matter of this paper. The paper is aimed at answering the proposed question above through a survey (observation) method supported by a library study. Having been thorugh data analysis, it is concluded that the symbolic function and meaning of th stone chair and wooden chair replica are closely related to the aspects of material, ornament, dimension, and positioning. Material determining is merely of a technical reason. Sculptured ornaments symbolize grandness, nobility, and power. The dimension aspect of the stone chair, on one hand, has a normal size that suggests a functionalty as a sitting place, while the wooden chair replica on the other hand functionas a base for the statue adu zatua. The positioning aspect tells of the display of the stone chair among other megalith stones strecthing in front of the house and the wooden chair being sculptured at the wall completing the interior omo sebua. The stone chair generally functions as a seating place. In Hilisimaetano, for insance, the stone chair specifically is used for a tribe traditional leader presiding a traditional meeting. The wooden chair replica, on the other hand, embodies a quite different significance as a base or a throne of the ancestor statue adu zatua as well as an aesthetical meaning as an interior decorator omo sebua Bawömataluo. Furthermore, the stone chair in Nias has a symbolic meaning as a social status. The ornament at the wooden chair replica symbolizes a high social status of the owner. As a matter of fact, the shape resembling a throne suggests symbolically a higher position as it bears a hope for the ancestor spirit to reach an important place in his afterlife as he attained in his earthly life.AbstrakSecara umum kursi dimaknai sebagai benda buatan manusia yang berfungsi sebagai tempat duduk. Namun secara khusus bentuk kursi juga bisa mengandung fungsi sosial maupun religi tertentu. Ruang lingkup tulisan ini adalah kursi batu dan replika kursi kayu di Nias, yang terwakili oleh tinggalan-tinggalan yang terdapat di wilayah Nias Selatan khususnya di Desa Hilimondregeraya, Bawömataluo, dan Hilisimaetanö. Permasalahan yang dimunculkan dalam tulisan ini adalah: apakah fungsi dan makna simbolis kursi batu dan replika kursi kayu pada masyarakat Nias ditinjau dari aspek bahan, ornamen, dimensi, dan keletakannya? Tujuan dari penulisan ini adalah menjawab permasalahan yang telah dikemukakan di atas melalui metode survei (observasi) yang didukung oleh studi pustaka. Setelah melalui tahap analisis data, diperoleh kesimpulan bahwa fungsi dan makna simbolis kursi batu dan replika kursi kayu pada masyarakat Nias terkait erat dengan aspek bahan, ornamen, dimensi, dan keletakannya. Pemilihan bahan terkait dengan alasan teknis semata. Ornamen yang dipahatkan menyimbolkan kebesaran, kebangsawanan, dan kekuasaan. Dari aspek dimensi, kursi batu memiliki ukuran normal yang dapat digunakan sebagai tempat duduk, sedangkan kursi kayu berupa replika dan berfungsi sebagai tempat untuk meletakkan patung adu zatua. Dari aspek keletakan, kursi batu berada di antara batu-batu megalitik lainnya yang berderet di halaman depan rumah, sedangkan kursi kayu dipahatkan di dinding yang melengkapi interior omo sebua. Fungsi kursi batu secara umum adalah sebagai tempat duduk. Lebih khusus lagi kursi batu di Hilisimaetanö digunakan sebagai tempat duduk bagi pemuka adat yang akan memimpin musyawarah adat. Sedangkan replika kursi kayu memiliki fungsi yang berbeda, yaitu sebagai dudukan atau singgasana patung leluhur adu zatua serta berfungsi estetis sebagai penghias interior omo sebua Bawömataluo. Makna simbolis kursi batu di Nias adalah sebagai simbol status sosial. Pada replika kursi kayu, ornamen yang terdapat pada objek tersebut juga menyimbolkan status sosial yang tinggi dari pemiliknya. Sedangkan bentuk menyerupai singgasana raja secara simbolis juga menyiratkan kedudukan yang tinggi karena hal itu merupakan harapan bahwa roh leluhur tersebut dapat mencapai kedudukan yang sama seperti di masa hidupnya.

The Bishops and the Act of Exchange of 1559

1974 ◽  
Vol 17 (2) ◽  
pp. 227-246 ◽  
Author(s):  
Felicity Heal
Keyword(s):  
Sixteenth Century ◽  
Social Consequences ◽  
Financial Resources ◽  
Effective Control ◽  
Highly Effective ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Church ◽  
Scholarly Attention

It is well known that the Tudor monarchs exerted highly effective control over the financial resources of the English Church, particularly in the years after the Henrician Reformation. So marked a feature of the sixteenth century were the demands which the Crown, followed by the rest of the leading laity, made upon the Church in order to gain easy profit, that the period has on occasions been characterized as the ‘ age of plunder ’ The dissolution of the monasteries, and its economic and social consequences, have long been the subject of scholarly attention and debate. The fortunes of the secular church, in contrast, have roused relatively little interest, except as a background to the Laudian revival. This is, of course, in part because the crisis which the parochial clergy, cathedral chapters and bishops, experienced, was less dramatic than that of the monks and chantry priests, and, perhaps partly because demands upon the secular church were often for taxation rather than for outright gifts of lands. None of the Tudors showed the slightest inclination to disturb the fundamental tithe relationship within the parishes, and there were very few, even among the most ardent advocates of reform, who spoke openly for the old Lollard concept of making tithe dependent upon the quality of the incumbent.

Rhetorical Theory in Sixteenth-Century Spain: A Critical Survey

2002 ◽  
Vol 20 (2) ◽  
pp. 133-148 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jorge Fernáández Lóópez
Keyword(s):  
Sixteenth Century ◽  
Rhetorical Theory ◽  
Critical Survey ◽  
Council Of Trent ◽  
High Production ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Scholarly Attention ◽  
Sacred Rhetoric

During the last thirty years, a growing scholarly attention has been paid to Spanish rhetoric. This paper gives an overview of the main studies on the subject and, with detailed bibliographical reference, draws a picture which presents the main features of Spanish rhetorical theory in the sixteenth century. Thus, references are made to the Council of Trent and its encouraging of sacred rhetoric, to the weight of Ciceronianism among Spanish rhetoricians -albeit some exceptions-, to the rigid detachment between rhetoric and poetics, to the relatively high production on the subject and to the limited influence of rhetoric and classical learning in the teaching of the time.

Sūrat Maryam (Q. 19): Lexicon, Lexical Echoes, English Translation

2011 ◽  
Vol 13 (1) ◽  
pp. 25-78 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shawkat M. Toorawa
Keyword(s):  
English Translation ◽  
Comparative Religion ◽  
Individual Treatment ◽  
General Consensus ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Interfaith Community ◽  
Scholarly Attention

Q. 19 (Sūrat Maryam) – an end-rhyming, and, by general consensus, middle to late Meccan sura of 98 (or 99) verses – has been the subject of considerable exegetical and scholarly attention. Besides commentary, naturally, in every tafsīr of the Qur'an, Sura 19 has also benefited from separate, individual treatment. It has been the object of special attention by modern Western scholars, in particular those of comparative religion and of Christianity, whose attention has centred largely on the virtue and piety of Mary, on the miraculous nature of the birth of Jesus, on Jesus' ministry, and on how Jesus' time on Earth came to an end. In addition, Sura 19 is a favourite of the interfaith community. Given this sustained and multivectored scrutiny, it is remarkable how little analysis has been devoted to its lexicon. This article is a contribution to the study of the lexicon of this sura, with a particular emphasis on three features: rhyming end words, hapaxes, and repeating words and roots, some of which occur in this sura alone.

Social Dialect Variations in Sasak Monolingual Society: A Lingual Critical Study

2015 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 1
Author(s):  
Irma Setiawan
Keyword(s):  
Social Status ◽  
Critical Analysis ◽  
Qualitative Method ◽  
Critical Study ◽  
Systematic Description ◽  
Or Groups ◽  
Dialect Variation ◽  
High Social Status ◽  
Descriptive Qualitative

Social dialect variation is diversity and richness of dialect owned by an individual or group in Sasak monolingual society. Moreover, the diversity of social dialect is also often used as a medium for transferring ideology, identity, and existence by an individual or group of individual or other groups. Thus, the purpose of this study is to describe the form of vocabulary choice in social dialect variation of Sasak community to show differences in speech who is high social status (superior) and low social status (inferior) between individuals or groups and between women and men. The theory used is social dialect variation form of Janet Holmes and critical analysis Norman Fairclough. The data was collected by observing methods and interview as well as the basic techniques and derivatives, observation and documentation methods. Sources of data gathered from Sasak speakers who are communicating. Data were analyzed by using descriptive qualitative method which aims to make systematic description, categorization, and patterning. Data are presented formally and informally. At last, this study resulted in different forms of social dialect variation by an individual or group and by women and men who can cause physical-psychic intersection.

Definitions and Intellectual Property Subject Matter

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Justine Pila
Keyword(s):  
Intellectual Property ◽  
Subject Matter ◽  
Legal Definition ◽  
Policy Context ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Scholarly Attention

This chapter considers the relative absence of scholarly attention to the meaning of the terms used to denote the subject matter that IP rights protect and the nature of those subject matter themselves. It then outlines the aims and methods of the definitional task undertaken in later chapters, and the stages in which that task proceeds. Using the distinction drawn by Richard Robinson, it proposes a nominal word:thing definitional exercise, rather than a word:word exercise, that considers recent use of the terms to be defined by European and UK legal officials. Drawing on the stipulative nature of authoritative legal definition, it also proposes an explicative aspect to the definitional exercise, focused on clarifying legal officials’ understandings of the relevant terms in the light of the relevant legal and policy context. And finally, it summarizes the conclusions reached at each stage of the definitional exercise undertaken in later chapters.

scholarly journals The Structural Dilemma of Citizen Participation: The Interactive Influence of Social Status and Subjective Social Mobility

2021 ◽  
Vol 15 ◽  
pp. 183449092110031
Author(s):  
Xuyun Tan ◽  
Xuejiao Dou ◽  
Yue Zhang ◽  
Cai Xing ◽  
Baoyu Bai ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Social Status ◽  
Social Mobility ◽  
Citizen Participation ◽  
Social Stratification ◽  
Interactive Effect ◽  
Current Status ◽  
Analysis Framework ◽  
Stratification Structure ◽  
And Behavior ◽  
High Social Status

In the context of rapid social change, the perception of social stratification has far-reaching and complex influences on human psychology and behavior, including citizen participation. The current research explored the interactive influence of social status and subjective social mobility on citizen participation. Two studies used experimental methods to manipulate subjective social mobility and social status, respectively, to examine the interactive effect. Taken together, the results of both studies revealed that the interaction between social status and subjective social mobility had a significant influence on citizen participation: whereas citizen participation with high social status was not affected by subjective social mobility, citizen participation with low social status decreased with increases in subjective social mobility. This research established a combined dynamic and static analysis framework of social stratification structure, elucidating the current status of citizen participation under the influence of the interaction between social status and subjective social mobility, and providing a countermeasure reference for effectively promoting citizen participation.

The Reformation of the Sixteenth Century in Renaissance Italy

1981 ◽  
Vol 17 ◽  
pp. 149-166 ◽  
Author(s):  
Philip M. J. McNair
Keyword(s):  
Sixteenth Century ◽  
The Other ◽  
Protestant Reformation ◽  
Modern World ◽  
The Reformation ◽  
Giordano Bruno ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Renaissance Italy ◽  
The One

Between the execution of Gerolamo Savonarola at Florence in May 1498 and the execution of Giordano Bruno at Rome in February 1600, western Christendom was convulsed by the protestant reformation, and the subject of this paper is the effect that that revolution had on the Italy that nourished and martyred those two unique yet representative men: unique in the power and complexity of their personalities, representative because the one sums up the medieval world with all its strengths and weaknesses while the other heralds the questing and questioning modern world in which we live.

Artisans, Objects and Everyday Life in Renaissance Italy

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Paula Hohti Erichsen
Keyword(s):  
Sixteenth Century ◽  
Way Of Life ◽  
Contemporary Culture ◽  
Luxury Goods ◽  
Men And Women ◽  
Household Economies ◽  
The Arts ◽  
Cultural Renaissance ◽  
Renaissance Italy ◽  
History Books

Did ordinary Italians have a ‘Renaissance’? This book presents the first in-depth exploration of how artisans and small local traders experienced the material and cultural Renaissance. Drawing on a rich blend of sixteenth-century visual and archival evidence, it examines how individuals and families at artisanal levels (such as shoemakers, barbers, bakers and innkeepers) lived and worked, managed their household economies and consumption, socialised in their homes, and engaged with the arts and the markets for luxury goods. It demonstrates that although the economic and social status of local craftsmen and traders was relatively low, their material possessions show how these men and women who rarely make it into the history books were fully engaged with contemporary culture, cultural customs and the urban way of life.

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