Modern cosmetic products for skin care: Formulations and quality requirements

Background. The deficiency of essential nutrients in the human body is the root cause of reduced efficiency, general resistance of the body to various diseases. That is an urgent problem in the context of the spread of coronavirus infection. In this regard, the search for opportunities to meet the needs of the population in food products that contain biologically active substances (BAS) through the use of high-value and at the same time available plant raw materials is extremely important. Marigolds attract special attention among such raw materials. The aim of the work is to study the chemical composition and evaluate the consumer properties of Tagetes L. varieties, zoned in the Kiev region, to prove the possibility of increasing the biological value of pasta by adding to their recipe powder from marigold inflorescences. Materials and methods. The object of research is pasta of B group (noodles). Inflorescences of marigolds of different varieties gathered during the flowering period in July-September 2019–2020 in the territory of Vasylkiv and Obukhiv districts of Kyiv region, Ukraine were used as enriching plant raw materials. The quality of finished pasta was assessed by organoleptic and physicochemical indexes (moisture content and titratable acidity). The content of mineral elements in the fine powder of marigold inflorescences was determined on the EXHERT-3L device, the quantitative composition and BAS identification – by spectrophotometric analysis on the device Specord-200 Analytic Jena UV-vis. The integrated quality index of pasta products was calculated taking into account the importance factors of individual indexes. Results. Comparing the obtained results, we can state that all the studied varieties – Gold Kopfen, Orange Flame, Hawaii, Equinox are characterized by high biological value, regardless of the area of collection. As a result of calculated and experimental studies it was determined that the addition of 7 % of the supplement does not provide the required supply of vitamins and minerals. Replacing the flour in the recipe by 20 % significantly improves the mineral composition, but deteriorates the taste and aromatic properties of pasta. The most optimal and rational amount of added additive is 15 %, as it improves the organoleptic properties of pasta and enriches their BAS. Conclusion. The usage of non-traditional vegetable raw materials, in particular powder from marigold inflorescences, which is rich in biologically active substances, allows not only to expand the range, improve the quality of finished products, but also increase the biological value of the product. The optimal amount of additive –powder from marigold inflorescences, was defined. It is 15 % by weight of flour in the production of noodles. This concentration allows not only to improve the organoleptic properties, but also to increase the content of biologically active substances – vitamins, micro- and macronutrients. The usage of non-traditional natural raw materials (powder from marigold inflorescences) allows to abandon artificial colorsand give the finished pasta a pleasant colorand aroma.

Download Full-text

Synthesis of Deuterated Surrogate Standards for the Analysis of Legally Regulated Substances in Cosmetics

10.26434/chemrxiv.13366274.v1 ◽

2020 ◽

Author(s):

Fariña Beatriz ◽

Carlos González ◽

Manuel Lolo ◽

F. Javier Sardina

Keyword(s):

European Union ◽

Continuous Improvement ◽

Analytical Methods ◽

Raw Materials ◽

Synthetic Methods ◽

The European Union ◽

Cosmetic Products ◽

Musk Xylene ◽

Harmful Substances ◽

Musk Ambrette

The presence of harmful substances in cosmetic products is regulated in most countries. In the European Union the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 lays down the requirements for the marketing of cosmetic products. Among others, important families of compounds restricted in the Regulation are musks, allergenic fragrances and phthalates. To ensure product safety, improved analytical methods capable of reliably and reproducibly detecting the presence of traces of prohibited and/or restricted ingredients in raw materials and finished products are required. For the continuous improvement of the reliability of the analytical methods developed to check the compliance of cosmetic products with the Regulation, the use of appropriate surrogate standards or contaminants (substances that are added to the samples to be analyzed to establish the recovery and the reproducibility of the quantification of the analytes) are of utmost importance. One of the best kinds of surrogate standards are isotopically labeled analogs of the analytes of interest. In this work, several synthetic methods have been developed to prepare isotopically labeled analogs of atranol, chloroatranol, di-n-octylphthalate, musk xylene, and musk ambrette, which are restricted substances in cosmetic articles.

Download Full-text

Brown algae of the orders Laminariales and Fucales from the Sakhalin-Kuril region: stocks, extraction, use

Trudy VNIRO ◽

10.36038/2307-3497-2020-181-235-256 ◽

2020 ◽

Vol 181 ◽

pp. 235-256

Author(s):

A.V. Podkorytova ◽

◽

A.N. Roshchina ◽

N.V. Evseeva ◽

A.I. Usov ◽

...

Keyword(s):

Brown Algae ◽

Raw Materials ◽

Biologically Active Substances ◽

Biologically Active ◽

Active Components ◽

Industrial Processing ◽

Forced Air ◽

Far Eastern ◽

Air Circulation ◽

Active Substances

Data on distribution, stocks of commercial and potentially commercial brown algae in the Sakhalin-Kuril region, their extraction, industrial processing, and chemical composition are presented. It is shown that for the preservation of biologically active substances and technically valuable components of laminaria, the use of an IR dryer for its preservation at LLC FIG «BINOM», Aniva, Island Sakhalin was an innovative technological solution. The products that are produced at this enterprise, in particular, dried shredded laminaria (IR drying), dried thalloms in heat dryers equipped with gas air heaters with forced air circulation are high — quality products containing all the biologically active components of natural brown alga. Expanded quality indicators of dried products from the laminaria of Sakhalin-Kuril region are presented. Based on the obtained data, recommendations were developed for the integrated use of algae as an annually renewable aquatic biological resource, traditionally extracted and used as raw materials in the production of food products and biologically active substances. It is shown that, despite the significant reserves of kelp in the far Eastern seas of Russia, they are currently poorly developed by fishing, with the exception of the coastal zone of Western Sakhalin.

Download Full-text

Improving the formulation of baursaks with the use of eggplant fruit powder

Khleboproducty ◽

10.32462/0235-2508-2021-30-11-40-45 ◽

2021 ◽

Vol 30 (11) ◽

pp. 40-45

Author(s):

A.Y. Abdusheva ◽

◽

M.K. Sadygova ◽

A.V. Kondrashova ◽

◽

...

Keyword(s):

Nutritional Value ◽

Raw Materials ◽

Biologically Active ◽

Convective Drying ◽

Bakery Product ◽

Product Formulation ◽

The Russian Federation ◽

Fruit Powder ◽

Active Substances

The article experimentally substantiates the prospects of obtaining powder from eggplant pulp, and its application in the technology of the national fried bakery product-baursaks. There are two ways to prepare eggplant for processing in order to remove bitterness. With preliminary freezing of raw materials, there is a slight bitterness in the aftertaste, and when soaked in a 3% salt solution, the taste of the powder is salty. The optimal parameters and modes of convective drying of eggplant fruits for the most complete preservation of biologically active substances in the product are established. The scientific novelty is confirmed by the patent of the Russian Federation № 2733117, a method for obtaining powder from the pulp of eggplant. The formulations of the experimental variants differed in the content of eggplant fruit powder by 15, 20, 25%. With an increase in the amount of eggplant pulp flour in the recipe to 20–25%, the color of the semi-finished product darkens, the dough becomes incoherent, breaks, because the content of raw gluten decreases in mixtures. According to the results of a comprehensive assessment of the quality of finished products, the best sample with the addition of eggplant pulp flour up to 15% in the product formulation. The authors found that in 100 g of baursaks with the addition of eggplant powder, the content of dietary fiber is 37,5% higher, vitamin B6 is 3 times, silicon, manganese, copper is 1,5 times. A new recipe of the national bakery product - baursaks has been developed, which contributes to the expansion of the range of products of increased nutritional value

Download Full-text

Элеутерококк колючий – популярный адаптоген Дальнего Востока. Сообщение 2 «Ресурсы, опыт интродукции и культивирования. Стандартизация сырья»

Dalʹnevostočnyj medicinskij žurnal ◽

10.35177/1994-5191-2019-4-107-112 ◽

2019 ◽

pp. 107-112

Keyword(s):

Raw Materials ◽

Far East ◽

Growth Conditions ◽

Review Article ◽

Biologically Active Substances ◽

Biologically Active ◽

Eleutherococcus Senticosus ◽

The Far East ◽

Active Substances

The review article presents the results of the analysis of literature data on the study of the Eleutherococcus senticosus resources in the Far East. It includes information on the results of its introduction and cultivation as well as the study of the content of biologically active substances in relation to different growth conditions. The article describes the differences in pharmacopoeial methods for assessing the quality of raw materials for Eleutherococcus senticosus in Russia and abroad.

Download Full-text

THE EFFECT OF THE ENERGY PROCESS ON THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF PLANT RAW MATERIAL OB-TAINED FROM LEAVES OF THE ASPEN OF THE GENERAL

chemistry of plant raw material ◽

10.14258/jcprm.2019024341 ◽

2018 ◽

pp. 251-259

Author(s):

Aleksandra Viktorovna Nekhorosheva ◽

Sergey Viktorovich Nekhoroshev ◽

Aleksey Anatol'yevich Drenin ◽

Erkin Hozhiakbirovich Botirov ◽

Nikolay Viktorovich Gornikov ◽

...

Keyword(s):

Chemical Composition ◽

Raw Materials ◽

Biologically Active ◽

Raw Material ◽

Comparative Characteristic ◽

Active Components ◽

Extractive Substances ◽

Vegetable Raw Materials ◽

Analytical Approaches

The analysis of the chemical composition of the vegetable raw materials received from leaves of an aspen ordinary, family plants Willow (Salicaceae), growing in the territory of the Khanty-Mansi autonomous district Yugra is provided in article. The choice of raw materials is caused by a large supply and fast reproducibility of a raw resource. In work numerical indicators and indicators of high quality of raw materials are established (humidity, the general ashes, sulphatic ashes, ashes not soluble in 10% to hydrochloric acid, extractive substances). The way of extraction of vegetable raw materials is reasonable, the comparative characteristic of content of extractive substances is provided in the received extracts. It is shown that the average content of extractive substances in native samples is 27.9%, the content of polysaccharides – 10.9%. The qualitative and quantitative analysis of biologically active agents is carried out by method of a highly effective liquid chromatography. The dominating components in samples of the plants growing in the territory of one land plot are салицин 510 mg of %, гиперозид 170 mg of %, routines of 210 mg of %. Influence of process of fermentation on the chemical composition of the vegetable raw materials received from leaves of an aspen ordinary is studied. The greatest exit of phenolic connections at impact on vegetable raw materials of fermentation is established by cold. The positive effect of impact of fermentation by crushing on quantity of the identified biologically active components is defined. Work was carried out for assessment of phytochemical parameters of quality of vegetable raw materials and formation of justification of analytical approaches to diagnostics of vegetable raw materials of the explored territory.

Download Full-text

USE OF NON-TRADITIONAL VEGETABLE RAW MATERIALS IN THE TECHNOLOGY OF FLOURY CONFECTIONARY PRODUCTS FOR RESTAURANT ECONOMY ENTERPRISES

EUREKA Life Sciences ◽

10.21303/2504-5695.2020.001113 ◽

2020 ◽

Vol 1 ◽

pp. 32-40

Author(s):

Yuliya Myroshnyk ◽

Viktor Dotsenko ◽

Larisa Sharan ◽

Vita Tsyrulnikova

Keyword(s):

Raw Materials ◽

Biologically Active Substances ◽

Biologically Active ◽

Raw Material ◽

Food Ration ◽

Product Technology ◽

Fresh Products ◽

Vegetable Raw Materials ◽

Active Substances

Products of biscuit dough are ones of most popular among floury confectionary products that is conditioned by their taste advantages, and ones of constant elements of food rations. Biscuit semi-products are a base of such confectionary products as tarts, fancy cakes, cookies. It is expedient to use supplements of non-traditional raw materials that can not only influence the technological process and quality of ready products, but also enrich them with biologically active substances as additional components of floury confectionary products. The most promising raw material for enriching products of this group is vegetable powders, because fresh products are seasonal and don’t regularly provide the food ration of the population with biologically active substances. The article considers a possibility of using snowball, ashberry and buckthorn powders for making biscuit semi-products. The aim of the work was to study the expedience and technological possibility of using vegetable raw materials in the biscuit semi-product technology. The chemical composition of chosen powders was studied. The influence of vegetable powder on the quality and quantity of cellulose, structural-mechanical and physical properties of dough was established. The expedience of using surface-active substances in the biscuit semi-product technology for improving the quality of ready products was substantiated.

Download Full-text

Synthesis of Deuterated Surrogate Standards for the Analysis of Legally Regulated Substances in Cosmetics

10.26434/chemrxiv.13366274 ◽

2020 ◽

Author(s):

Fariña Beatriz ◽

Carlos González ◽

Manuel Lolo ◽

F. Javier Sardina

Keyword(s):

European Union ◽

Continuous Improvement ◽

Analytical Methods ◽

Raw Materials ◽

Synthetic Methods ◽

The European Union ◽

Cosmetic Products ◽

Musk Xylene ◽

Harmful Substances ◽

Musk Ambrette

The presence of harmful substances in cosmetic products is regulated in most countries. In the European Union the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 lays down the requirements for the marketing of cosmetic products. Among others, important families of compounds restricted in the Regulation are musks, allergenic fragrances and phthalates. To ensure product safety, improved analytical methods capable of reliably and reproducibly detecting the presence of traces of prohibited and/or restricted ingredients in raw materials and finished products are required. For the continuous improvement of the reliability of the analytical methods developed to check the compliance of cosmetic products with the Regulation, the use of appropriate surrogate standards or contaminants (substances that are added to the samples to be analyzed to establish the recovery and the reproducibility of the quantification of the analytes) are of utmost importance. One of the best kinds of surrogate standards are isotopically labeled analogs of the analytes of interest. In this work, several synthetic methods have been developed to prepare isotopically labeled analogs of atranol, chloroatranol, di-n-octylphthalate, musk xylene, and musk ambrette, which are restricted substances in cosmetic articles.

Download Full-text

Accumulation of biologically active substances in plants of Elsholtzia stauntonii Benth. grown in the foothill zone of the Crimea

Agrarian Bulletin of the ◽

10.32417/1997-4868-2020-202-11-76-84 ◽

2020 ◽

Vol 202 (11) ◽

pp. 76-84

Author(s):

Ol'ga Pehova ◽

Lidiya Timasheva ◽

Irina Danilova ◽

Irina Belova

Keyword(s):

Essential Oil ◽

Raw Materials ◽

Dry Weight ◽

Component Composition ◽

Biologically Active Substances ◽

Biologically Active ◽

Active Growth ◽

The Crimea ◽

Active Substances

Abstract. The purpose of the research was to study the quality of Elsholtzia stauntonii Benth. raw materials grown in the foothill zone of the Crimea. In the course of the research, we studied such indicators as the content of essential oil and other types of biologically active substances (BAS), which allow using elsholtzia as an essential oil, food, or medicinal raw materials. Research methods. Determination of the quality of E. stauntonii raw materials was carried out according to generally accepted methods. Results. Peculiarities of the accumulation of essential oil in various organs of E. stauntonii were determined. The variability of the mass fraction of essential oil, its component composition and BAS depending on the plant’s growth stage is shown. We found that the main oil-synthesizing organs of E. stauntonii are leaves and inflorescences. The largest amount of essential oil (1.82 %) was obtained from inflorescences. In the fractional composition of raw materials, they amounted to 45.6 %. The maximum amount of essential oil with the dominant components (rosefuran and rosefuran epoxide) accumulated in plants during the phase of mass flowering (1.48 % in terms of absolutely dry weight). The highest content of BAS, namely phenolic compounds, accumulated in the stage of active growth of vegetative and the formation of generative organs of plants (regrowth and bud formation); extractives – in the stage of regrowth. During two years of storage of air-dry raw materials, there is a loss of essential oil as a result of its evaporation (54.0 %) and a change in its component composition (an increase in monoterpene derivatives of furan by 26.6 % and a decrease in sesquiterpene hydrocarbons by 23.5 %). To store air-dry raw materials of E. stauntonii for more than two years is not, however, reasonable because of significant losses of essential oil. Scientific novelty. The quality of raw materials of E. stauntonii variety Rozovoe oblako, which was grown in the foothill zone of the Crimea, was studied for the first time. Raw materials and essential oil of E. stauntonii have a broad spectrum of biological activity and can be used in medicine, as well as in essential oil and food industries.

Download Full-text

STANDARISASI PARAMETER NON SPESIFIK SIMPLISIA RIMPANG KUNYIT (Curcumae Domestica Rizhoma) DAN TEMULAWAK (Curcuma xanthorrhiza Roxb.) DI KABUPATEN PONOROGO

Jurnal Delima Harapan ◽

10.31935/delima.v6i2.84 ◽

2019 ◽

Vol 6 (2) ◽

pp. 89-94

Author(s):

Yaya Sulthon Aziz

Keyword(s):

Raw Materials ◽

Water Soluble ◽

Quality Requirements ◽

Test Parameters ◽

Quality Testing ◽

Traditional Drug ◽

Post Harvesting ◽

Test Requirements ◽

Local Farmers

Simplicia of turmeric and ginger is widely cultivated and developed by local farmers. Making these simplicia often does not meet the quality requirements because the process is still traditional and there are no guidelines used, there are still many raw materials for turmeric and ginger. The farmers of Ponorogo Regency cannot penetrate the traditional drug factory market. Objective: To determine the quality of turmeric and curcuma simplicia in Ponorogo. Method: Simplicia samples originating from Slahung village, Slahung sub-district, Ponrogo Regency were taken by purposive sampling. Quality testing is carried out according to FHI Issue I of 2008 and Republic of Indonesia BPOM Regulation Number 12 of 2014. Results: In testing turmeric rhizomes, referring to BPOM Number 12 of 2014 on water content testing, AKK test and ALT test meet the requirements. In the first edition of FHI parameters in 2008 did not meet the requirements of the curcuminoid test parameters, total ash content test, acid insoluble ash test, ethanol soluble extract test, water soluble juice test, but at the test of essential oil content and shrinkage test drying meets the requirements. None of the ginger rhizomes meet the quality test requirements. Conclusions and suggestions: Simplicia of turmeric and ginger in Ponorogo Regency has not met the quality requirements of traditional medicine and it is expected that farmers improve in the planting, harvesting and post-harvesting processes.

Download Full-text