Nonlinear dynamic pressure beneath waves in water of large and intermediate depth

Author(s):  
Anna Kokorina ◽  
Alexey Slunyaev ◽  
Marco Klein

<p>The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure fields beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different approximations for modulated potential gravity waves. The performance of different theories to reconstruct the pressure field from the known surface displacement time series (the direct problem) is investigated. A new two-component theory for weakly modulated weakly nonlinear waves is proposed, which exhibits the best capability among the considered. Peculiarities of the vertical modes of the nonlinear pressure harmonics are discussed.</p><p> </p><p>The work was supported by the RFBR projects 19-55-15005 and 20-05-00162 (AK).</p>

1999 ◽  
Vol 121 (2) ◽  
pp. 126-130 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. Trulsen

The nonlinear Schro¨dinger method for water wave kinematics under two-dimensional irregular deepwater gravity waves is developed. Its application is illustrated for computation of the velocity and acceleration fields from the time-series of the surface displacement measured at a fixed horizontal position. The method is based on the assumption that the waves have small steepness and limited bandwidth.


2013 ◽  
Vol 738 ◽  
Author(s):  
Alexandre Darmon ◽  
Michael Benzaquen ◽  
Elie Raphaël

AbstractGravity waves generated by an object moving at constant speed at the water surface form a specific pattern commonly known as the Kelvin wake. It was proved by Lord Kelvin that such a wake is delimited by a constant angle ${\simeq }19. 4{7}^{\circ } $. However a recent study by Rabaud and Moisy based on the observation of airborne images showed that the wake angle seems to decrease as the Froude number $Fr$ increases, scaling as $F{r}^{- 1} $ for large Froude numbers. To explain such observations they make the strong hypothesis that an object of size $b$ cannot generate wavelengths larger than $b$. Without the need of such an assumption and modelling the moving object by an axisymmetric pressure field, we analytically show that the angle corresponding to the maximum amplitude of the waves scales as $F{r}^{- 1} $ for large Froude numbers, whereas the angle delimiting the wake region outside which the surface is essentially flat remains constant and equal to the Kelvin angle for all $Fr$.


1969 ◽  
Vol 37 (4) ◽  
pp. 773-784 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins

The trapping of short-period gravity waves by islands and seamounts has been studied by Chambers (1965) and by Longuet-Higgins (1967). It was shown by the latter that in the absence of rotation, or when the wave frequency σ is large compared with the Coriolis parameter f, these waves cannot be perfectly trapped; some energy must always leak away to infinity. Very long-period oscillations in the presence of a sloping shelf surrounding an island, with σ [Lt ] f, have been studied by Mysak (1967) and Rhines (1967, 1969). Here perfect trapping is possible. However, as pointed out in Longuet-Higgins (1968), the rotation itself exerts a strong trapping effect not only when |σ| [Lt ] f, but also whenever a |σ| < f. It seems not to have been noticed that this effect is capable of trapping waves round an island in an ocean of uniform depth, in the absence of any shelf or sloping region offshore.The existence of such waves is demonstrated for a circular island in § 1 of the present paper. It is shown that the waves exist only when the azimuthal wave-number n is at least 1. The waves always progress round the island in a clockwise sense in the northern hemisphere. At large distances r from the island, the wave amplitude decays exponentially, but this exponential trapping occurs only if the radius a of the island exceeds the critical value (n(n − 1)gh)½/f. When n = 1, this critical radius is zero, so that in theory the waves exist for any island of non-zero radius.The application of these results to the ocean is discussed in § 2. Except possibly for baroclinic motions, it appears that only the waves corresponding to n = 1 could exist in fact, and that their frequency would be nearly equal to the inertial frequency f. It is unlikely that f could be regarded as constant over a sufficiently wide area for the model to apply without qualification. Nevertheless, the oscillations may be regarded as the local adjustment of the pressure field to inertial currents in the neighbourhood of the island. It is possible that the peak at about 0·73 c.p.d. in the spectrum of sea-level at Oahu, as found by Miyata & Groves (1968), can be interpreted in this way.


Author(s):  
P. J. Bryant

AbstractNumerical evidence is presented for the existence of unsteady periodic gravity waves of large height in deep water whose shape changes cyclically as they propagate. It is found that, for a given wavelength and maximum wave height, cyclic waves with a range of cyclic periods exist, with a steady wave of permanent shape being an extreme member of the range. The method of solution, using Fourier transforms of the nonlinear surface boundary conditions, determines the irrotational velocity field in the water and the water surface displacement as functions of space and time, from which properties of the waves are demonstrated. In particular, it is shown that cyclic waves are closer to the point of wave breaking than are steady permanent waves of the same wave height and wavelength.


2019 ◽  
Vol 71 (1) ◽  
pp. 102-108 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jun-peng Shao ◽  
Guang-dong Liu ◽  
Xiaodong Yu

PurposeThis paper aims to improve the bearing capacity of hydrostatic thrust bearing under working conditions of high speed and heavy load; a new wedge-shaped structure opened on an edge of oil seal is put forward, the loss and insufficiency for hydrostatic bearing capacity are made up by using dynamic pressure, and then, hydrostatic hydrodynamic lubrication is realized.Design/methodology/approachOil film three-dimensional models of unidirectional and bi-directional hydrostatic hydrodynamic oil pad are established by using UG. The oil film pressure fields of two kinds of oil pad are simulated by using ANSYS ICEM CFD and ANSYS CFX; the pressure fields distribution characteristics are obtained, and the effects of workbench rotary speed and bearing weight on pressure field are analyzed. Also, the experimental verification is made.FindingsThe results demonstrate that with an increase in workbench rotary speed, the oil film pressure of two kinds of hybrid oil pad increases gradually, and the maximum pressure of the bi-directional one accounts for 95 per cent of the unidirectional one when the load is constant. With an increase in load, the oil film pressure of two kinds of hybrid oil pad increases gradually, the difference between them is 9.4 per cent under the condition of load of 25twhen the rotary speed is constant.Originality/valueThe paper can provide theoretical basis for a structure design of hybrid thrust bearing under different rotary speed and load conditions, and compensate the shortage of static pressure-bearing capacity by using dynamic pressure, improve the stability of vertical CNC machining equipment.


1979 ◽  
Vol 92 (4) ◽  
pp. 717-730 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Masuda ◽  
Yi-Yu Kuo ◽  
Hisashi Mitsuyasu

A theoretical framework is given, upon which to examine the dispersion relation of random gravity waves. First a weakly nonlinear theory is developed to the third-order for a statistically stationary and homogeneous field of random gravity waves. Both the spectrum of forced waves and the nonlinear dispersion relation are expressed in terms of the spectrum of free waves under the assumption of the Gaussian process for the first-order surface displacement. Next a method is proposed by which to separate each of the spectra of free and forced waves from the measured spectrum. This gives practical and powerful means of investigating the statistical structure of wind waves.


2019 ◽  
Vol 71 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Takeru Yamada ◽  
Takeshi Imamura ◽  
Tetsuya Fukuhara ◽  
Makoto Taguchi

AbstractThe reason for stationary gravity waves at Venus’ cloud top to appear mostly at low latitudes in the afternoon is not understood. Since a neutral layer exists in the lower part of the cloud layer, the waves should be affected by the neutral layer before reaching the cloud top. To what extent gravity waves can propagate vertically through the neutral layer has been unclear. To examine the possibility that the variation of the neutral layer thickness is responsible for the dependence of the gravity wave activity on the latitude and the local time, we investigated the sensitivity of the vertical propagation of gravity waves on the neutral layer thickness using a numerical model. The results showed that stationary gravity waves with zonal wavelengths longer than 1000 km can propagate to the cloud-top level without notable attenuation in the neutral layer with realistic thicknesses of 5–15 km. This suggests that the observed latitudinal and local time variation of the gravity wave activity should be attributed to processes below the cloud. An analytical approach also showed that gravity waves with horizontal wavelengths shorter than tens of kilometers would be strongly attenuated in the neutral layer; such waves should originate in the altitude region above the neutral layer.


2010 ◽  
Vol 40 (1) ◽  
pp. 155-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heidi Pettersson ◽  
Kimmo K. Kahma ◽  
Laura Tuomi

Abstract In slanting fetch conditions the direction of actively growing waves is strongly controlled by the fetch geometry. The effect was found to be pronounced in the long and narrow Gulf of Finland in the Baltic Sea, where it significantly modifies the directional wave climate. Three models with different assumptions on the directional coupling between the wave components were used to analyze the physics responsible for the directional behavior of the waves in the gulf. The directionally decoupled model produced the direction at the spectral peak correctly when the slanting fetch geometry was narrow but gave a weaker steering than observed when the fetch geometry was broader. The method of Donelan estimated well the direction at the spectral peak in well-defined slanting fetch conditions, but overestimated the longer fetch components during wave growth from a more complex shoreline. Neither the decoupled nor the Donelan model reproduced the observed shifting of direction with the frequency. The performance of the third-generation spectral wave model (WAM) in estimating the wave directions was strongly dependent on the grid resolution of the model. The dominant wave directions were estimated satisfactorily when the grid-step size was dropped to 5 km in the gulf, which is 70 km in its narrowest part. A mechanism based on the weakly nonlinear interactions is proposed to explain the strong steering effect in slanting fetch conditions.


1979 ◽  
Vol 90 (1) ◽  
pp. 161-178 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. H. J. Grimshaw

A Helmholtz velocity profile with velocity discontinuity 2U is embedded in an infinite continuously stratified Boussinesq fluid with constant Brunt—Väisälä frequency N. Linear theory shows that this system can support resonant over-reflexion, i.e. the existence of neutral modes consisting of outgoing internal gravity waves, whenever the horizontal wavenumber is less than N/2½U. This paper examines the weakly nonlinear theory of these modes. An equation governing the evolution of the amplitude of the interface displacement is derived. The time scale for this evolution is α−2, where α is a measure of the magnitude of the interface displacement, which is excited by an incident wave of magnitude O(α3). It is shown that the mode which is symmetrical with respect to the interface (and has a horizontal phase speed equal to the mean of the basic velocity discontinuity) remains neutral, with a finite amplitude wave on the interface. However, the other modes, which are not symmetrical with respect to the interface, become unstable owing to the self-interaction of the primary mode with its second harmonic. The interface displacement develops a singularity in a finite time.


Wave Motion ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 102702
Author(s):  
M.A. Manna ◽  
S. Noubissie ◽  
J. Touboul ◽  
B. Simon ◽  
R.A. Kraenkel

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