Quality Evaluation of Ethiopian 100% Cotton Carded Ring Spun Yarn with Respect to USTER Standards

Yarn quality influences both fabric production processes efficiency and export market. One method used to gauge competitiveness of an industry is to study its product quality. The aim of this research work is to evaluate the quality of Ethiopian textile spinning mills’ 100% cotton carded ring spun yarns in terms of its evenness (coefficient of mass variation, CVm), imperfections (thick and thin places, neps), and tensile properties with USTER Statistics 2018. Five spinning mills (B3, A0, A2, A4, and K3) of 15N, 20Ne, 25Ne, 30Ne, 35Ne, and 40Ne nominal yarn counts have been selected for the study. The yarn evenness and imperfections were measured using USTER tester 5 and tensile using a STATIMAT tester. The USTER statistical results showed 20.3Ne (mill B3), 32Ne (mill A4), and 36.2Ne (mill A2) had better overall quality, respectively. It was observed that most selected spinning mills had low evenness, imperfections, yarn strength, and good yarn elongation. Tensile properties of A2 (32.85Ne and 36.2Ne) had fallen under 5% USTER statistics percentile which indicates excellent yarn strength. Generally, from studied mills, it was seen that 61.5% of cotton yarn CVm and thin places falls at above 95% and 15% of yarn tenacity falls at ≤5% of Uster statistical percentile.

The comfort properties of hemp and flax blended denim fabrics with common industrial washing treatments

In this study, the moisture, thermal, and tactile comfort properties of flax and hemp blended denim fabrics treated with selected common industrial washing treatments were analyzed. Being used recently in denim fabric production, four different types of flax and hemp blended fabrics in different compositions and a reference cotton fabric were produced in similar construction and treated with rinse, stone, and bleach washes. The impact of fiber composition and the washing treatments on comfort properties was analyzed statistically. The findings revealed that the blended fabrics had better moisture comfort properties and thermal resistance than the cotton fabrics. Moreover, their tactile comfort properties were within acceptable limits. The washing treatments improved the comfort properties of all fabrics in a similar way.

Partnership model for sericulture development to improve farmer’s welfare (a case study at bina mandiri farmer group at Sukabumi Regency)

One of the agro-industrial sectors that has the potential to improve the welfare of the community is sericulture. Sericulture is an activity in the silk agroindustry, ranging from mulberry cultivation, silkworm cultivation, yarn, and fabric production to marketing. However, 95% of domestic demand for silk yarn is still imported from China although the quality local silk yarn is not inferior to Chinese products. Problems hindering silk development in Indonesia include limited capital and access, technology, and markets. Also the lack of policy supports for the development of sericulture. This paper presents partnership patterns in sericulture development between related parties (government, entrepreneurs, and silk farmers). The research was conducted at the Bina Mandiri Farmers Group, Sukamaju Village, Kadudampit District, Sukabumi Regency. The research method used was descriptive qualitative. The results showed that the partnership pattern developed was the plasma nucleus pattern. The step of cooperation in forming a business partnership is one strategy to develop a business for farmers. It requires maximum support from entrepreneurs through training packages for farmers. Guidance is carried out through the transfer of technology for enhancement productivity to increase farmer’s competence. In addition, coaching is also carried out by developing sericulture agribusiness institutions through cooperatives to improve farmers’ welfare further.

Kinerja Logika Fuzzy Sugeno dalam Menangani Prediksi Kain Tenun dengan Kombinasi Random Tree dalam Membangun Rule

This study describes the performance of Sugeno fuzzy logic in determining the amount of woven fabric production by using a combination of random tree decision trees in forming rules. The criteria used in determining the amount of production, namely, production costs, demand, and stock obtained from woven fabric entrepreneurs in Mlaki Wanarejan Utara Pemalang. The random tree decision tree is used, one of which is to automatically generate rules from the available data without consulting with experts, in addition to introducing random trees in the field of research because there are still few studies using this decision tree. The results of this study, it was found that the accuracy while the prediction results tested obtained an Average Forecasting Error Rate (AFER) of 42% with a value 58% truth after being compared with the actual production data.Keywords : Fuzzy Logic, Fuzzy Sugeno Method, Rule, Random tree, Prediction.

Bacterial Cellulose: Multipurpose Biodegradable Robust Nanomaterial

One of actual global problem is clothes and packing materials biodegradability leading to tremendous water contamination. In order to develop ecologically friendly, game-changing in global industry fabric production, we propose a concept to implement kombucha. Kombucha is a symbiotic bacteria and yeast multispecies consortium producing the most abundant polymer on Earth - bacterial cellulose. There are many advantages of bacterial cellulose that are widely used in medicine, material science, food industry and waste management. Unfortunately: long time of bacterial cellulose polymerisation process, lack of its control, diversity in biological composition, finally, acidic smell and disturbances of kombucha growth - all this issues limit the interest of kombucha use to replace easy-accessible and widely applied synthetic materials. In this chapter will be described a revolutionary concept to develop practical and sustainable use of bacterial cellulose as natural alternative for synthetic materials, particularly for a synthetic fabrics and plastics replacement. The optimal cultivation conditions and examples of bacterial cellulose in applications for daily life will be explained.

KAJIAN DESAIN PADA TEKSTIL TIRUAN BATIK DI SIDOMULYO NGAWI SEBAGAI TEKSTIL UNTUK SERAGAM

Batik craft in Ngawi Regency first appeared in Tempurejo, Banyubiru Village, which is called Griya Batik Sidomulyo. ‘Batik Imitation’ products have been produced as uniforms for government or private agencies in Ngawi Regency. The problems discussed are animed at determining the background of Griya Batik Sidomulyo’s production of batik imitations as textiles for uniforms and the aspects considered in designing batik imitation uniforms. The method in this research uses descriptive qualitative methods with a design approach. The research location was conducted at Griya Batik Sidomulyo Ngawi. The design approach is used to study the imitation of cold wax printed batik cloth. The result of this study are the background of Griya Batik Sidomulyo producing batik imitation, beginning with producing hand-written batik. Production of cold wax printed batik imitations from 2010 until now. Efforts to produce imitation batik fabrics to be able to meet market at a relatively cheaper price. Fabric production does not only meet design requirements but must be by market demands dan buyers. The aspects considered in designing have similarities and differences in the functional, aesthetics, materials, and production processes. Other conciderations require consumer tastes, trends mode, marketing to establish communication.Keywords: design, batik imitation, sidomulyo, uniform.AbstrakKerajinan batik di Kabupaten Ngawi muncul pertama kali di Tempurejo, Desa Banyubiru yang bernama Griya Batik Sidomulyo. Secara visual desain tampak rapi dan komposisi coraknya bagus, serta hasil produksinya lebih awet dan tidak mudah luntur. Produk ‘tiruan batik’ telah diproduksi sebagai seragam instansi pemerintah maupun swasta di Kabupaten Ngawi. Permasalahan yang dibahas bertujuan untuk mengetahui latar belakang Griya Batik Sidomulyo memproduksi tiruan batik sebagai tekstil untuk seragam dan aspek-aspek yang dipertimbangkan dalam merancang seragam tiruan batik. Metode dalam penelitian ini menggunakan metode kualitatif deskriptif dengan pendekatan desain. Pendekatan desain digunakan untuk mengkaji kain tiruan batik print malam dingin di Griya Batik Sidomulyo. Hasil penelitian ini adalah latar belakang Griya Batik Sidomulyo memproduksi tiruan batik diawali dengan memproduksi batik tulis. Produksi tiruan batik print malam dingin sejak tahun 2010 hingga sekarang. Upaya memproduksi kain tiruan batik agar mampu memenuhi pasar dengan harga yang relatif lebih murah. Produksi kain tidak hanya memenuhi persyaratan desain, namun harus sesuai dengan permintaan pasar maupun pembeli. Aspek-aspek yang dipertimbangkan dalam merancang memiliki persamaan dan perbedaan pada fungsional, estetika, bahan, dan proses produksi. Pertimbangan lainnya diperlukan adanya selera konsumen, trend mode, pemasaran untuk terjalinnya komunikasi. Kata Kunci: desain, tiruan batik, sidomulyo, seragam. Authors:Silvia Khoiru Azizah : Universitas Sebelas MaretTiwi Bina Affanti : Universitas Sebelas MaretReferences:_________. (2019). Warta BBKB (edisi 6). Yogyakarta. Balai Besar Kerajinan dan Batik.Affanti, Tiwi Bina. (2007). Ornamentik. Surakarta: FSSR UNS.Azizah, S. K. (2020). “Tiruan Batik”. Hasil Dokumentasi Pribadi: 2020, Ngawi.BSN. (2014). Batik-Pengertian dan Istilah. Jakarta: Badan Standarisasi Nasional.BSN. (2015). Tiruan Batik dan Paduan Batik dengan Batik-Pengertian dan Istilah. Jakarta: Badan Standarisasi Nasional.Ibrahim, I.I. (2007). Budaya Populer sebagai Komunikasi: Dinamika Popscape Mediascape di Indoneia Kontemporer. Yogyakarta: Jalasutra.Lisbijanto, Herry. (2013). Batik. Yogyakarta: Graha Ilmu.Rizali, Nanang. (2017). Tinjauan Desain Tekstil. Surakarta: UNS Press.Suharso dan Ana, Retnoningsih. (2005). Kamus Besar Bahasa Indonesia. Semarang: Widya Karya.Sachari, Agus. (2005). Metodologi Penelitian Budaya Rupa. Jakarta: Erlangga.Sulaeman, S., & Suhartini, T. (1988). Penelitian Pengaruh Beberapa Pelarut Organik Dalam Pembuatan Lilin Batik Cair Terhadap Proses Pembatikan. Dinamika Kerajinan dan Batik, (8), 25-29. 10.22322/dkb.v0i8.973. Sunaryo, Aryo. (2009). Ornamen Nusantara (Kajian Khusus Tentang Ornamen Indonesia). Semarang: Dahara Prize.Susanto, Sewan. S.K. (1980). Seni Kerajinan Batik Indonesia. Jakarta: Balai Penelitian Batik dan Kerajinan.Sutopo, H.B. (2002). Metodologi Penelitian Kualitatif. Surakarta: UNS Press.Utoyo, J. T., Priyatno, A., & Azis, A. C. K. (2020). Penerapan Prinsip-Prinsip Seni Rupa Pada Kaligrafi Di Masjid Baiturrahman Unimed. Journal of Education, Humaniora and Social Sciences (JEHSS), 3(2), 419-426. https://doi.org/10.34007/jehss.v3i2.330.Van Hoed, V., Zyaykina, N., De Greyt, W., Maes, J., Verhé, R., & Demeestere, K. (2008). Identification and occurrence of steryl glucosides in palm and soy biodiesel. Journal of the American Oil Chemists' Society, 85(8), 701. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11746-008-1263-5.Wulandari, Ari. (2011). Batik Nusantara: Makna Filosofis, Cara Pembuatan dan Industri Batik. Yogyakarta: Andi.

Improvement of Filter-Fabrics for Mining Industry

The publication represents a review of three major types of filter-fabrics which are actively applied by domestic industrial enterprises. It's specially noted that contemporary high-technological manufacturing is impossible without highquality materials. The domestic technologies on filter-fabric production deserve attention unconditionally. Nevertheless, together with modernization of domestic industrial production, the technologies on filter-fabric accumulation have to change also. Namely that's why the functioning of such enterprises, which lean on competitive ability principles, product quality and its high technology, is utterly important now. In this regard, it represents an interest the activity of research-production enterprise Filter-Fabrics (RPE Filter-Fabrics Ltd) where from 2013, there has been started the manufacturing of innovational products which basis on, polyamide mini-thread and filament (complex) thread from high-test polyamide with glass filler which is stable to abrasion and having lower shrinkage during exploitation in the liquid medium. Besides, RPE Filter-Fabrics Ltd has significantly expanded filter-fabric market by the way of correction of thread basis and weft that has allowed to introduce the production on many concentrating factories.