scholarly journals Field measurements from contrasting reefs show spurs and grooves can dissipate more wave energy than the reef crest

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephanie Jane Duce ◽  
Ana Vila-Concejo ◽  
Robert Jak McCarroll ◽  
Bevan Yiu ◽  
Lachlan A Perris ◽  
...  
Author(s):  
Jörn Geister

The windward reef complex NE and E of San Andrés Island is briefly described in terms of submarine topography, sediments and the distribution of corals and other benthonic organisms. The breaker zone of the San Andrés barrier and other exposed Western Caribbean reefs characteristically exhibits a profuse growth consisting almost exclusively of Millepora. In this respect they are different from most other described West Indian reef localities, where Acropora palmata is the dominating species in this part of the reef. The replacement of Acropora palmata by Millepora is interpreted as an adaptation of the reef crest community to high energy environments due to long swell prevailing at the Western end of the Caribbean Sea. A few short reef sections exposed to the maximum degree of wave energy show conspicuous algal ridges.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 80
Author(s):  
J.W. Kamphuis ◽  
O.F.S.J. Sayao

This paper is an analysis of two sets of experimental results on littoral sand transport. A littoral sand transport expression is proposed, relating littoral transport rate to surf similarity parameter and hence to wave energy dissipation rate. The expression indicates that the "constant' in the CERC formula is dependent on the mobile bed beach slope and on the breaker index. The expression is also compared with some of the few published field measurements.


Author(s):  
Mohammad-Reza Alam

It is known that muddy seafloors can extract significant energy from overpassing surface waves via engaging them in strong interaction processes. If a synthetic seabed can respond to the action of surface gravity waves similar to the mud response, then it too can take out a lot of energy from surface waves. Analysis of the performance of a mud-resembling seabed carpet in harvesting ocean wave energy is the subject of this article. Specifically, and on the basis of the field measurements and observations of properties/responses of seafloor mud, we focus our attention on an artificial viscoelastic seabed carpet composed of (vertically acting) linear springs and generators. We show that the system of sea/synthetic-carpet admits two propagating wave solutions: the surface mode and the bottom mode. The damping of a surface-mode wave is proportional to its wavelength and hence is classic. However, the damping of a bottom-mode wave is larger for shorter waves, and is in general stronger than that of the surface-mode wave. To address the effect of (high-order) nonlinear interactions as well as to investigate the performance of our proposed carpet of wave energy conversion (CWEC) against a spectrum of waves, we formulate a direct simulation scheme based on a high-order spectral method. We show, by taking high-order nonlinear interactions into account, that the CWEC efficiency can be significantly higher for steeper waves. We further show that the bandwidth of high performance of the CWEC is broad, it yields minimal wave reflections and its theoretical efficiency asymptotically approaches unity within a finite and (relatively) short extent of deployment.


1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 67
Author(s):  
William N. Seelig ◽  
Robert M. Sorensen

A study of historical information and field measurements in Sargent Beach, Texas, reveal that the shoreline is retreating with historic rates increasing from -10 feet per year in the late 1800's to -31 feet per year (-9.8 m/year) in the early 1970's. The cause of this erosion is the lack of an adequate sand supply to the beach zone. This sand deficiency is due to: a) reduced updrift sand input to the coast by the Brazos River beginning in 1945 and caused by decreased sediment transport capability of the river, b) increased sand storage in the Brazos Delta encouraged by jetties and vegetation, and c) possible offshore losses of sand due to hurricane wave energy focusing on the Brazos Delta in conjunction with river jetting during peak river flows.


Energies ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 14 (2) ◽  
pp. 344
Author(s):  
Zhongliang Meng ◽  
Yanjun Liu ◽  
Jian Qin ◽  
Shumin Sun

The horizontal rotor wave energy converter is a newly designed wave energy converter. While the mooring system plays a vital role in keeping the device floating stably, the selection of the mooring angle has immediate effects on the device’s floating stability and energy generation efficiency. Given the properties of wave energy along the coast in Shandong Province, this study combines wave statistics gathered from field measurements of a certain area in the Bohai Sea with hydrological data obtained in a field test in the same sea area and adopts Stokes’ fifth-order wave theory to theoretically design and simulate the mooring system for the new type of power generating device. With the help of AQWA software, data on the dynamics of the device at various angles are obtained to construct models and carry out regular wave experiments according to the most appropriate mooring angles to show the validity of the selected mooring angles. The consistency of the results between the experiment and simulation confirms that under the same working conditions of regular waves, as the mooring angle increases, the roll angle decreases first and then increases, the pitch angle barely varies, and the yaw angle decreases first and then increases. The adoption of this simulation method and the gathered experimental data help to provide theoretical and practical bases for choosing the mooring method for the engineering prototype and obtaining a reliable supply of power.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (10) ◽  
pp. 1095
Author(s):  
Zhongliang Meng ◽  
Yun Chen ◽  
Yanjun Liu ◽  
Yi Ding

The mooring system not only plays a vital role in keeping wave energy generators floating stably, but also affects the success of engineering design. Combining wave force theory and the hydrological data obtained from the field measurements of a certain sea area in the Bohai Sea, the Stokes second-order wave theory was adopted to design the mooring system of a new type of power-generating device. At the same time, the study uses the Aqwa software to gather the dynamic data of a power-generating device in a real test, and then makes models and carries out regular wave tests so as to verify the viability of the mooring system and the stability of the whole power-generating device. All of this work will provide a theoretical basis for the manufacture of an engineering prototype and its reliable supply of power.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 24 ◽  
Author(s):  
S.V. Hsiao ◽  
O.H. Shemdin

The dissipation of wave energy by various bottom mechanisms plays an important role in the spectral transformation of waves as they propagate from deep to shallow water. Three bottom dissipation mechanisms are discussed. The bottom friction mechanism is investigated in detail and a method for calculating the friction coefficient is proposed. The method is tested by comparison with field measurements. Dissipation due to percolation and bottom motion are also discussed. The magnitude of dissipation rates induced by the different mechanisms are compared under various wave and bottom conditions.


2021 ◽  
Vol 72 (1) ◽  
pp. 16-24
Author(s):  
Anh Pham Lan

Fringing reefs which are common nearshore islands with coral reef growth have special topography of very steep slope on the fore-reef and mild slope on the wide flat. When incident waves propagate from a very deep water region (from hundreds of meters to thousands of meters of depth) to approaching the reef they abruptly commence a very shallow water (only few centimeters to several meters of depth) and create strong hydrodynamic processes on the reef flat. Due to shallow depth, waves feel the bottom and break in the area of fore-reef slope and reef crest and partial reef flat. Infra-gravity waves (IG), other name as bound long waves or surf beat, which belong to low-frequency wave type (0.002Hz ¸ 0.04Hz) are generated by the varying-breaking point mechanism on the shallow reef flat. On the flat, short wave energy is almost dissipated; low-frequency waves are strongly dominated over the surf zone till swash zone. Wave set-up causing an increase of water level on the flat combines with the run-up at the shoreline which can lead to coastal flooding. Besides, if the reef flat length is in the order of one fourth of wavelength the first oscillation resonant mode with standing wave occurs. This component is resonantly amplified at the shoreline relative to the incident infra-gravity wave energy at the reef crest.


Author(s):  
Shiaw-Yih Tzang ◽  
Yung-Lung Chen ◽  
Tai-Wen Hsu ◽  
Da-Wei Chen ◽  
Chun-Chih Wang ◽  
...  

To assess wave power resources at a marine energy test site in Keelung coastal waters, the SWAN (Simulating WAve Nearshore) model [1; 2] is applied to obtain wave conditions for assessing the wave energy resources. The ocean surface wind velocity by CCMP (Cross-Calibrated Mutli-Platform) is first adopted in SWAN model simulation. Comparisons with field measurements of AWCP (Acoustic Water Column Profiler) station in Port of Keelung and of ADCP (Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) station offshore NTOU (National Taiwan Ocean University) during periods form Jul 1st to Dec 31st of 2010, show that simulated significant wave heights agree well with measured values except in periods of typhoons and strong northeastern monsoons. However, the simulated peak periods are generally underestimated than the measurements. The same results can also be seen in simulated wave energies. The resulting simulated wave energies agree with measurements better at NTOU test site than at Keelung station.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document