scholarly journals Biomechanical substantiation of the technique of hanging in rock climbing

2019 ◽  
Vol 5 (1) ◽  
pp. 25
Author(s):  
S.V. Kozin

<p><em>The purpose</em> of the work is to identify the main kinematic characteristics of a hanging in rock climbing by athletes of different qualifications and theoretically substantiate the correct technique for performing of a given movement. <em>Material and methods.</em> The technique of hanging performance in bouldering of 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. The age of athletes was 22.4 ± 3.2 years, body length 178.5 ± 12.5 cm, body weight 72.2 ± 8.5 kg. A qualified athlete took part in a demonstration of various models for performing a hang. Using the Kinovea 0.8.15 computer program, the kinematic characteristics of the two models of technology were analyzed (model 1 — typical for novice athletes, model 2 — typical of qualified athletes) based on determining the angle between the shoulder and shoulder girdle, as well as between the lumbar spine and vertical axis. Results. The main kinematic parameters of vibration in climbing for various models of equipment, characteristic of athletes of different qualifications, are revealed. The presence of significant differences (p &lt;0.001) in the angles between the shoulder and the upper arm, between the lower spine and the vertical axis in the fixation phase of the vis is shown. The angle between the shoulder and shoulder girdle in the first model of technology was 1460, in the second model of technology this angle is 970. The angle between the lumbar spine and the vertical axis was 110 in the first model, in the second model this angle was 280. A theoretical justification of the correct hanging technique climbing in terms of the laws of mechanics and the laws of the interaction of forces in the kinematic chain. Findings. In the first model, vis is carried out mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. In the second model, VIS also provides for the inclusion of the muscles of the trunk and legs, which reduces the load on the ligamentous apparatus and reduces the chance of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.</p>

2021 ◽  
Vol 25 (5) ◽  
pp. 307-318
Author(s):  
Serhii Kozin ◽  
Zhanneta Kozina ◽  
Marina Jagiello ◽  
Marko Joksimović

Background and Study Aim. Students are often injured while playing sports. The main condition for preventing injuries is the correct technique of movements. In the literature, rock climbing has not been analyzed in terms of prevention of student injuries. Therefore, the development of programs to prevent injuries of students-rock climbers is relevant. Aim: to determine the impact of the use of exercises in a closed kinematic chain on the technical skill and the number of injuries to the elbows of student-rock climbers based on the analysis of the one-arm hang technique. Material and methods. First, to substantiate the correct technique in rock climbing, the technique of performing one-arm hang was analyzed by 20 leading male climbers of Ukraine and 20 students - novice male climbers. Then a randomized control study was conducted. The participants in the randomized control study were 40 male students-climbers in the intervention group and 44 male students-climbers in the control group aged 18-19 years. The one-arm hang technique was determined based on the angles between the shoulder and the collarbone during the movement. The experiment lasted 1 year. At the beginning and at the end of the experiment, the analysis of the one-arm hang technique was carried out. The number of elbow injuries in both groups was also recorded. Results. The main parameters of the one-arm hang technique for qualified and unskilled climbers have been substantiated. For qualified climbers, one-arm hang involves the muscles of the shoulder girdle, torso, and legs. In unskilled climbers, one-arm hang is provided only by the muscles of the arm. In a control randomized study, there was a significant improvement in the results of biomechanical analysis of the hang technique in athletes in the intervention group (p <0.001). The use of exercises in a closed kinematic chain significantly reduces the incidence rate of elbow injuries in student-climbers (p <0.05). The odds rate of mild elbow injuries in the control group was 4.625 times higher than the intervention one (95% CI: 1.198; 17.854), the odds rate of moderate injuries in the control group was 5.588 times higher than in the control group than the intervention one (95% CI: 1.143; 27.324). Conclusions. Exercises in closed kinematic chains are an effective means of improving climbing technique and injury preventing to university students during rock climbing.


2017 ◽  
Vol 19 (82) ◽  
pp. 120-124
Author(s):  
O.O. Melnyk ◽  
M.V. Melnyk

The article presents the results of studies of the biomorphological features of muscles acting on shoulder joint of some representatives of order Gaviiformes. Shoulder joint is a multifaceted joint, movements of which are provided not only by the muscles of the shoulder joint itself, but also some muscles of the shoulder girdle and elbow joint. It should be noted that the main muscles of the flight of birds are muscles of the shoulder girdle, in particular: thoracic and m. supracoracoideus. Also important are some of the muscles of the elbow, in particularm.coraco-radialis and m. scapula-triceps This is confirmed both by the points of fixation, and the degree of their development.The degree of development and differentiation of muscles acting on the shoulder joint is different, which is due to the peculiarities of the wing operation during the flight, and in waterfowl – peculiarities of underwater swimmingusing wings. The aim of this biomorphological study was understanding of development degree, and the main, mechanisms of differentiation and transformation of muscles acting on the shoulder joint of birds adapted to the aquatic habitat.Material for research was obtained from the funds of the Department of anatomy of Animals named after acad. V.G. Kasyanenko of the National University of Life and Environmental Sciences of Ukraine, where the muscle structures of the shoulder joint were studied on  black-tailed gagar Gavia immer in number of 3 individuals. Birds of Gaviiformes order are characterized by a rapid, but little maneuverable flight. They are extremely well adapted to the aquatic environment and spend most of their lives in the water, leaving on land only during breeding. These birds perfectly swim and dive, and during diving use not only the pelvic fins but also the wings. This, in turn, imposes certain imprints on the degree of development and differentiation of the studied muscle groups. It was found that among the studied groups of muscles (shoulder girdle, shoulder and elbow joints) the most developed group of muscles is shoulder girdle – 86%. The muscle groups of the elbow – 8.5% and the shoulder – 5.4% of the joints are significantly less. In addition, for the first time, we have found that the largest in its development among all the muscles examined - the thoracic muscle (the group of muscles of the shoulder girdle) has significant differences in comparison with other species of birds. These differences consist in the fact that this muscle is clearly differentiated into two separate layers, in fact two separate muscles – superficial and deep, most of which are developed superficial. Such a differentiation is due to biomorphological adaptations to the habitat. 


2017 ◽  
Vol 19 (77) ◽  
pp. 55-59
Author(s):  
O.O. Melnyk ◽  
M.V. Melnyk

Biomorphological features of muscles that act on the shoulder joint of some representatives of orderPasseriformes are represented in the article. As shoulder joint of birds has many axes, not only the muscles of the shoulder joint provide the movements in it, but some of the muscles of the shoulder girdle and elbow joint. It should be noted that the main flight muscles of birds are the shoulder girdle muscles, including the chest (m. pectoralis) and supra-coracoid muscles. Some muscles of an elbow joint, including m. coracoradialis and m. scapuli triceps, are equally important. However, the amount of muscles that somehow act on the shoulder joint of the investigated birds' species is different, the degree of muscle development in these species is also different. In order to understand the degree of development, particularly mechanisms of differentiation and development of muscle structures, a comprehensive study of the muscles of the shoulder girdle, shoulder and elbow joints was conducted. The material for the research was obtained from the funds of the Department of animal anatomy named after acad. V.G. Kasyanenko of National University of Life and Environmental Sciences of Ukraine, where the studies of muscular structures of the shoulder joint of some representatives of order Passeriformes, including raven (Corvus corax), rook (Corvus fragilegus), waxwings (Bombycilla garrulous), were conducted. Research of muscles of the shoulder joint, shoulder girdle and elbow joint of birds was performed on fresh or fixed in 10% formalin solution cadavers. After describing and defining of fixation points of the muscles, they were dissected to determine the location of the muscle fibers. In addition, in order to determine the degree of development of muscles and muscle groups, each muscle was weighed. During the research, muscles were drawn or pictured to complement the work with illustrative material. There was no larger or smaller muscle neither in muscle group of shoulder, nor elbow joint that should be significantly for each case. There is no clear stability in the development of muscle groups of these joints. At the same time, muscle group of elbow joint is more developed than the muscle group of shoulder joint. All these mentioned features of structure and differentiation of muscles, which act on the shoulder joint of birds, are caused by physical exertion, posed by adaptation to a different type, speed and duration of flight.


2018 ◽  
Vol 15 (5) ◽  
pp. 638-648
Author(s):  
D. S. Aleshkov

Introduction.Questions of the maintenance of territories and road network in winter conditions are directly connected with timely and qualitative clearing of roads and territories of snow. Designing and creation effective milling and rotary snowblowers, which work includes some technological operations on snow cleaning, consist in a correct choice of geometrical and kinematic parameters of basic elements. At a design stage the technique, allowing to carry out a choice of the basic technological parameters of such vehicles is necessary and further it would allow to make optimization directly. The purpose of this paper is representation of dependences of the basic technological parameters of the milling and rotary snowblowers and sequence of their choosing.Materials and methods. The paper presents analytical equations connecting geometrical and kinematic characteristics of the feeder, the thrower of milling and rotary snowblower from conditions of maintenance of identical productivity. Moreover, the analysis of the received equations and dependences by choice milling and rotary snowblower parameters is presented. Sequences of the basic geometrical and kinematic parameters’ influence on each other are revealed.Results.As a result, the comparative estimation of the offered and existing equations is made. The character of dependence of angular speed of the throwing device rotation on translational speed of the milling and rotary snowblower and width of the rotor blade is established. On the basis of the received dependences the algorithm of the basic technological parameters’ choice on the milling and rotary snowblowers, proceeding from the minimization condition of the initial parameters’ task are considered.Discussion and conclusion. The presented dependences allow to spend effectively outline designing of new constructions of milling and rotary snowblowers and to carry out optimisation of existing models of milling and rotary snowblowers.


2020 ◽  
pp. 1-51
Author(s):  
Sang Min Han ◽  
Yoon Young Kim

Abstract Studies on the topology optimization of linkage mechanisms have thus far focused mainly on mechanism synthesis considering only kinematic characteristics describing a desired path or motion. Here, we propose a new topology optimization method that synthesizes a linkage mechanism considering not only kinematic but also compliance (K&C) characteristics simultaneously, as compliance characteristics can also significantly affect the linkage mechanism performance; compliance characteristics dictate how elastic components, such as bushings in a vehicle suspension, are deformed by external forces. To achieve our objective, we use the spring-connected rigid block model (SBM) developed earlier for mechanism synthesis considering only kinematic characteristics, but we make it suitable for the simultaneous consideration of K&C characteristics during mechanism synthesis by making its zero-length springs multifunctional. Variable-stiffness springs were used to identify the mechanism kinematic configuration only, but now in the proposed approach, they serve to determine not only the mechanism kinematic configuration but also the compliance element distribution. In particular, the ground-anchoring springs used to anchor a linkage mechanism to the ground are functionalized to simulate actual bushings as well as to identify the desired linkage kinematic chain. After the proposed formulation and numerical implementation are presented, case studies are considered. In particular, the effectiveness of the proposed method is demonstrated with a simplified two-dimensional vehicle suspension design problem. This study is expected to pave the way to advance the topology optimization method for general linkage mechanisms whenever K&C characteristics must be simultaneously considered for mechanism synthesis.


2018 ◽  
Vol 48 (8) ◽  
pp. 903-907
Author(s):  
L. A. Udochkina ◽  
O. I. Vorontsova ◽  
I. G. Mazin ◽  
L. A. Goncharova ◽  
A. Kh. Akhmineeva

Author(s):  
V. N. Druzhinin ◽  
V. G. Suvorov ◽  
A. N. Cherny ◽  
S. N. Troynakov ◽  
U. T. Tukhtaev

The relevance of the study is due to the high prevalence of degenerative-dystrophic changes in the bone-articular apparatus and periarticular tissues in the structure of diseases in General in the population and in persons working in contact with harmful production factors. The most common in clinical practice diseases of the shoulder girdle with lesions of bone-cartilage and tendon-muscle structures include arthrosis and changes in periarticular tissues, including: periarthritis, tendinitis, tenosynovitis (tendovagines, entezity), enthesopathy, bursitis, ruptures of the rotator cuff of the humerus, the symptom of “collision” — impingement sholder syndrome, lesions of the acromioclavicular and clavicular joints. Treatment of these conditions is not a solved medical and social problem, so perhaps their early diagnosis today is still relevant in the sense of primary prevention of disability of the population, including the working part of it-improving the quality of diagnosis of shoulder joint pathology today can be achieved through the use of new methodological techniques, objectifying the degree of severity of x-ray morphological changes on the basis of appropriate quantitative characteristics.The aim of the study was to optimize the diagnosis of osteopenia (osteoporosis) using digital reference osteodensitometry to objectively assess the effectiveness of therapy for ostearthritis and periarthritis of the shoulder joint.A comparative analysis of the results of clinical and radiological examination of the condition of the shoulder joint engineering plants workers with the presence of the clinic osteoarthritis and periarthritis shoulder joint and assessment of mineral status of humerus at primary diagnosis and in the dynamics of observations on the basis of use of new technologies for digital osteodensitometry.The use of reference digital osteodensitometry made it possible to objectively assess the levels and topography of mineral distribution in the proximal humerus in the control group and in patients with osteopathy at various stages of clinical observation.The mineral density of the proximal humerus has differences depending on the sector and zone of study, being an objective criterion for the orientation of the restructuring of their structure and, consequently, the effectiveness of therapeutic measures.Digital reference osteodensitometry, as the most affordable method of early detection of osteoporosis or osteopennia, can be used in complex clinical and radiological examination of patients with suspected or already professionally caused osteopathy of the shoulder joint.


2020 ◽  
Vol 30 (92) ◽  
pp. 19-27
Author(s):  
Paweł Gąsior

Aim of the study: To determine the differences in dynamic and kinematic parameters and kinesthetic differentiation of movement between competitors practicing sports climbing at different levels of advancement. Material and methods: The research group consisted of 30 men ( x _ = 25.6 years). The respondents were divided according to their level of experience (amateur, intermediate, advanced) into three groups of ten people. Measurements were taken of: relative strength, relative power and climbing speed for the upper and lower limbs using the Myotest accelerometer (Switzerland). To assess kinesthetic differentiation of movement, a two-plate stabilographic scale test (double-plate posturograph) was used. Results and conclusions: In climbers of greater ability we observed higher values for kinematic and dynamic parameters of the upper limbs. In the evaluation of the same parameters for the lower limbs we observed inverse relationships with climbing ability. Advanced climbers were characterized by lower relative power and relative strength of the lower limbs and also by a lower climbing speed. Compared with the amateurs, the advanced climbers who practice bouldering are characterized by a higher level of kinesthetic differentiation in posturographic tests for the shoulder girdle. The research results did not display any statistically significant differences in the level of abilities for kinesthetic differentiation of movement in measurements involving lower limbs. The research confirmed that dynamic and kinematic parameters of the upper limbs, including relative strength, relative power and climb speed, are significant determinants of the ability level of a boulderer. In the assessment of the lower limbs, these parameters do not influence ability level in bouldering. Thanks to the use of an innovative method of examining kinesthetic sensation, we noted that climbers of greater ability are more susceptible to the short-term effect of learning kinesthetic sensation when differentiating active strength (action) in the upper limbs. The double-plate posturograph is a tool which may be used for training and observing changes in terms of these coordination abilities. In response to the inclusion of climbing in the program for the Olympics as a three event competition, the introduction of training measures influencing relative power and strength parameters of the lower limbs should be considered. Optimizing training based on the development of relative power and speed of the lower limbs in competitors who practice bouldering may improve performance in speed climbing which, in the context of the multi-event competition, is of great importance.


2020 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 125-130
Author(s):  
L.V. LUKIENKO ◽  
◽  
M.N. KAMENSKY ◽  

Issues of synthesis of parameters of engagement of internal ring of mechanized shaft sinking complex are considered, analysis of operating conditions (force loading and kinematic parameters) is carried out. On the basis of analysis of strength parameters of transmission using finite element method geometric-kinematic characteristics of parameters of engagement of internal ring of mechanized stem-passing complex are determined.


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