Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Phytochemical Analysis and Dermo-Cosmetic Evaluation of Cymbidium sp. (Orchidaceae) Cultivation By-Products

Cymbidium is one of the most popular genera in Orchidaceae family, commercialized either as loose flowers or as potted plants in floriculture worldwide. The non-marketable parts are typically discarded (e.g., unsuitable flowers, leaves, pseudobulbs, roots), generating an enormous quantity of unutilized biomass. The above by-products were studied through phytochemical analysis and investigated for their dermo-cosmetic potential. The initial antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anti-collagenase assays of the total extracts indicated that the pseudobulb and root ethyl acetate extracts were the most potent. Those extracts were then submitted to chromatographic separation leading to the isolation of 16 secondary metabolites (four phenanthrenes, three 1,4-phenanthrenquinones, three dibenzyls, two phenolic acid derivatives, two sterols, one dehydrodiconiferyl alcohol derivative, and one simple phenolic compound), including 6-hydroxy-5,7-dimethoxy-1,4-phenanthrenequinone (cymbisamoquinone), which was identified as a new natural product. In parallel, 48 metabolites were identified by UPLC-HRMS analysis of the extracts. The biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that gigantol and tristin present important anti-tyrosinase activity, while bulbophyllanthrin, 3-hydroxy-2,4,7-trimethoxy-phenanthrene, marylaurencinol A, 5-hydroxy-2-methoxy-1,4-phenanthrenequinone, and ephemeranthroquinone B show dose-dependent anti-collagenase activity. In contrast to isolated metabolites, which may act selectively on specific enzymes, the initial total extracts exhibited inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase enzymes, thus showing better prospects for use in dermo-cosmetic formulations.

Regioselective Enzymatic Synthesis of Kojic Acid Monoesters

Kojic acid is a fungal metabolite and one of the strongest tyrosinase inhibitors. Its esters are used as lipid-compatible skin whitening components in cosmetic formulations. In this study, lipase PS, lipase AK, Lipolyve AN and pig pancreatic lipase catalyzed the acetylation of kojic acid under selective formation of the same product, kojic 7-acetate. However, the enzymes differed in their regioselectivity when catalyzing the alcoholysis of kojic acid diacetate. While lipase PS and lipase AK produced mixtures of both monoacetate regioisomers (7-acetate and 5-acetate of kojic acid), the pancreatic lipase almost exclusively produced 5-acetate. The enzyme displayed the same regioselectivity in the palmitoylation of kojic acid and in the alcoholysis of kojic acid dipalmitate. Simple reaction engineering with PPL as a catalyst thus provides the complementary monoesters of kojic acid. Kojic 7-acetate, 5-acetate, 7-palmitate and 5-palmitate were prepared with yields after purification of 57.3%, 38.2%, 31.7% and 31.4%, respectively.

New Antioxidant Ingredients from Brewery By-Products for Cosmetic Formulations

The purpose of this work was to evaluate the total phenol content and antioxidant activity of different types of handcrafted beers (Ego, Alter, Fiat Lux, Triplo Malto, Ubi, and Maior), as well as the starting materials (malts, hops, and yeast), the intermediate products, and the waste products (spent malts, hops, and yeast), in view of their use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Extractions from starting and spent samples were taken from water or 70° alcohol. The total phenol content (Folin Ciocalteau Essay) of all the brewing products depended on the specific product under investigation. The highest values were found in starting hops (ranging from approximately 93 to 155 mg GAE/g, according to the extraction solvent), intermediate ones in starting malt and starting yeast, and the lowest values in wort. The total phenol content in the final beers originates from the phenols that were extracted from the different ingredients, namely the starting malts, hops and yeast, but non-negligible values were still observed in spent products. The method used for the evaluation of the antioxidant activity, trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (DPPH), ferric-ion reducing antioxidant parameter (FRAP), and radical cation scavenging activity and reducing power (ABTS) strongly influenced the results. In general, the results reflected the trend observed for the total phenol content: that beers are progressively enriched by phenols originating from all the starting ingredients, and that spent products still possess non-negligible antioxidant activity. It is interesting to note that waste yeast frequently showed higher values than those of the starting material; it can be inferred that yeast is able to absorb phenols from the beer during brewing. By considering the interest in exploiting waste derived from processing foods, the biological activity of waste Alter brewery products has been evaluated on a cell culture of keratinocytes (spent products of malt, hop, and yeast). Preliminary in vitro assays in keratinocyte HaCaT cells were carried out to assess the potential bioactivity of spent extracts. Among the spent extracts, the spent hop and yeast extracts showed the ability to improve the mitochondrial activity and prevent oxidative stress in HaCaT cells, two features in skin ageing. In conclusion, this study offers evidence that waste from handcrafted beers can be an interesting source of phenols for the preparation of skin anti-aging cosmetics.

Evaluation of comedogenic potential of a paraben-free plant-based butter moisturizing cream: A double-blind, comparative study

Objectives: Comedogenicity is a critical factor in making of cosmetics and skin care products. The term “acne cosmetica” was coined to link the relationship between female acne to the use of cosmetic formulations, stating that the ingredients used in the cosmetic formulations have the potential to evoke a comedogenic response or produce comedones. Therefore, it is important that a skin care product is non-comedogenic and efficacious at the same time. The main objective of this study is to evaluate the comedogenic potential of the test product (Venusia Max Cream – paraben free) when applied topically under occluded patch to the skin. Material and Methods: This was a randomized, double-blinded, comparative study conducted in 24 healthy female participants, with prominent follicular orifices on the upper back region. Comedogenic potential of the test product (Venusia Max Cream – paraben free) was evaluated in comparison to positive (coconut oil) and negative (glycerin) controls in women. Each participant received topical application of test and control products under occluded patch to the skin on the upper aspect of the back, 3 times weekly for 4 weeks. Cyanoacrylate biopsies were performed before and after treatment to determine the microcomedones histologically. Microcomedones were graded using light microscopy and results were analyzed based on scale rating (0–3). Results: The mean comedone grading was assessed between positive versus negative control, and positive control versus test product. The mean comedone grades were significantly less in test product 0.41 ± 0.50 and negative control 0.82 ± 0.73 in comparison to positive control 2.09 ± 0.68. The test product was least comedogenic in this study. Furthermore, no adverse events were reported during the study period. Conclusion: Based on the histological evidence, Venusia Max Cream (paraben free) is a non-comedogenic, plant-based intense moisturizing cream and its use in regular skin care routine can be beneficial, particularly for acne prone and dry skin as it improves the skin hydration levels.

In vivo research on cosmetics with a sunscreen and synergistic antioxidant care

The article presents research confirming the synergistic action of cosmetics with sunscreens and antioxidants. The aim of the study was to assess the safety and rationalize the use and dosage of photoprotective cosmetics. Skin tolerance and the effectiveness of cosmetic formulations were confirmed and the key ingredients were selected to minimize the appearance of dermatoses. The level of hydration, elasticity, lubrication, transepidermal water loss and the pH value of skin of volunteers were measured. The conducted experiment confirmed the effectiveness of the tested active substances to improve the biophysical parameters of the skin.