Characteristics of women's basic bodice pattern formation in relation to the anthropometric references

2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
In Hwa Kim ◽  
Hyunsook Han ◽  
Su-Jeong Hwang Shin

PurposeThe purpose of study is to investigate effectiveness of pattern technique in relation to the use of anthropometric references for drafting women's basic bodice patterns by assessing characteristics of pattern formation, quantification of wearing ease on the transverse plan and actual ease distribution on body forms.Design/methodology/approachThree pattern drafting techniques were analyzed, which have different frequency of using direct body measurements for pattern formulation. Ease quantification and wearing ease distribution were evaluated on the two different body forms: a young female body and a heavy woman body. Women's basic bodice patterns were drafted with YUKA CAD and virtually draped on the two body forms with CLO 3D. Rapidform was used to evaluate garment appearance. Areal ease and its distribution were assessed. A deviation map was used for wrinkle analysis.FindingsCompared to the pattern formation derived from few anthropometric references, patterns using sufficient anthropometric references provided overall better fit for the different body forms. Ease distribution without considering body arcs was found to be a cause of garment fit problems. Patterns with little or no ease caused transverse fine wrinkles and skewed side seams. Pattern techniques those used linear equations caused problems on the bust because the formulation could not reflect bust protrusions in relation to the body torso shape differences.Originality/valueThis study revealed characteristics of pattern formulae and linear equations in relation to anthropometric references and body shapes. The findings may be effective in developing algorithm of the customized pattern formation in the industry.

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Eonyou Shin ◽  
Elahe Saeidi

PurposeThe purpose of this study was to categorize the whole body shapes of overweight and obese females in the US and examine apparel fit based on the current ASTM sizing standards related to the body shapes categorized.Design/methodology/approachBody scan data from 2,672 subjects were used. To categorize their whole body shapes using 97 body measurements, principal component analysis with varimax rotation, a hierarchical cluster analysis and K-means cluster analysis were used. To compare the ASTM sizing standards for plus sizes (curvy and straight) and missy sizes (curvy and straight), five body parts (bust, under bust, waist, top hip, hip) using the formula for fit tolerance (measurement plus half of the interval) were compared with the ASTM sizing standards to determine the size appropriate for each body part.FindingsFive whole body shapes among overweight and obese females in the US were categorized: Rectangle-curvy; parallelogram-moderately curvy; parallelogram-hip tilt; inverted trapezoid-moderately curvy and inverted trapezoid-hip tilt. When the body measurements in each body shape were compared with the current ASTM sizing systems for both misses and plus sizes, four-fifths or more of overweight and obese female adults in the US would find it difficult to obtain a perfect fit for both tops and bottoms.Originality/valueIdentifying whole body shapes among overweight and obese women in the US contributes significantly, as it will help apparel companies that target the markets of larger women develop a new sizing system. This study is the first attempt to analyze fit by comparing the ASTM sizing charts with body measurements in each body shape group. Further, the study contributes to the body-related literature by filling gaps in missing whole BS categories among overweight and obese females.


2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (3) ◽  
pp. 380-397 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yueqi Zhong ◽  
Duan Li ◽  
Ge Wu ◽  
PengPeng Hu

Purpose The automatic body measurement is the key of tailoring, mass customization and fit/ease evaluation. The major challenges include finding the landmarks and extracting the sizes accurately. The purpose of this paper is to propose a new method of body measurement based on the loop structure. Design/methodology/approach The scanned human model is sliced equally to layers consist of various shapes of loops. The semantic feature analysis has been regarded as a problem of finding the points of interest (POI) and the loop of interest (LOI) according to the types of loop connections. Methods for determining the basic landmarks have been detailed. Findings The experimental results validate that the proposed methods can be used to locate the landmarks and to extract sizes on markless human scans robustly and efficiently. Originality/value With the method, the body measurement can be quickly performed with average errors around 0.5 cm. The results of segmentation, landmarking and body measurements also validate the robustness and efficiency of the proposed methods.


2019 ◽  
Vol 47 (1) ◽  
pp. 37-47 ◽  
Author(s):  
Heather Moorefield-Lang

Purpose What happens when a librarian outgrows their maker learning location or transfers to a new library? The purpose of this study is to explore the planning process for second and/or new library makerspaces. Is the planning more intentional? Is there more focus on how the makerspace should be put together for the community served? Is the community further involved? This study will explore those questions and more. Design/methodology/approach Using content analysis, the perspectives of practicing librarians in the achievement of subsequent makerspaces are examined. Data include librarian interviews, an analysis using NVivo 11 through the lens of design thinking, and a final review using member checking by each research participant. Findings Makerspaces continue to grow in popularity in school and public/community libraries. What is unexplored is the moving from a first makerspace to the implementation of a second and/or new maker learning location. More intentional planning is involved. The community served by the library is further engaged in the planning. Study results illustrate the value that community insight and intentional planning play in the design and implementation of makerspaces. Originality/value Makerspaces in libraries continue to grow in popularity; in turn, the body of peer-reviewed, scholarly publications also continues to grow. Librarians in the field are beginning to move from their first to second makerspaces. This study investigates those perspectives. Much can be gained from the experiences of those who have implemented their second or third makerspace.


2020 ◽  
Vol 15 (3) ◽  
pp. 411-430
Author(s):  
Agnieszka Kurczewska ◽  
Michał Mackiewicz

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to identify human capital factors that pertain both to setting up and successfully running a business. To achieve this objective, the authors apply and extend the theory of career choice offered by Lazear (2005) that explains individual selection into entrepreneurship.Design/methodology/approachThe authors hypothesise that individuals with broader educational and professional backgrounds are more likely to start a business and are more likely to run a business in the long term. The authors tested the hypotheses using unique data from 800 current entrepreneurs, 800 employees who were previously entrepreneurs and 842 employees with no entrepreneurial experience, by means of a logit regression with robust standard errors and extensive robustness checks.FindingsThe authors empirically show that individuals with more diverse educational and professional backgrounds tend to have both greater chances of starting a company, as well as a higher probability of entrepreneurial success. Surprisingly, having managerial experience proved to exert a negative influence on the likelihood of starting a business while having an insignificant impact on the odds of entrepreneurial success.Research limitations/implicationsThe findings are informative for those planning or pursuing an entrepreneurial career, but they are also relevant for the purpose of entrepreneurship education.Originality/valueThe author's extend the body of research supporting Lazear's (2005) theory by showing that broad education and professional experience not only contribute to a higher propensity to start a company but they are also success factors in business per se.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Berihun Bizuneh ◽  
Shalemu Sharew Hailemariam ◽  
Selam Tsegaye

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to explore pre-purchase apparel evaluation cues and examine the effect of demographic variables empirically in the context of a developing country. The initiation for the study was driven by the absence of such prior research and supplemented by the big market opportunity for clothing products in the country under investigation.Design/methodology/approachA self-administered online survey was used for data collection. Demographic questions, 23 apparel measurement items composed of 17 product-based and 6 sustainability-based items, and an open-ended question were included in the questionnaire. Factor analysis was used for dimension reduction and one-way multivariate analysis of variance (MANOVA) for hypotheses testing.FindingsGarment fit, design features, colour, fabric type and seasonality are the five important characteristics most Ethiopian consumers consider while buying apparel products. Factor analysis resulted in five important factors used for pre-purchase apparel evaluation amongst which the design and extrinsic cue is found to be the most important. Environmental factors in the apparel industry got higher emphasis than social factors. While age and educational background made differences in apparel evaluation, gender did not show a significant difference.Originality/valueThe paper provides a founding insight in exploring apparel evaluation cues by considering product- and sustainability-based cues in a developing country context. It also examines the effect of three demographic variables which are rarely studied in such combination.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Natasja Steenkamp ◽  
Roslyn Roberts

Purpose This paper aims to explore how advanced integrated report preparers internalise and operationalise material value creation information to manage the generation of such information for the integrated report. Design/methodology/approach The paper adopts a qualitative approach using in-depth semi-structured interviews to examine how information about material value creation matters in six South African organisations are managed. Findings The findings will be useful to integrated reporting adopters as to how they might implement appropriate processes and systems to determine, communicate, collect and process information about matters that substantively affect their value creation. Originality/value The paper contributes to the body of knowledge by providing insight on how material value creation matters are determined, communicated internally and information about such matters generated.


2020 ◽  
Vol 33 (5) ◽  
pp. 737-751
Author(s):  
Alison Horstmeyer

PurposeThis paper examines the role of curiosity in volatile, uncertain, complex and ambiguous (VUCA) work contexts.Design/methodology/approachThis conceptual article relied upon an examination of literature about curiosity, VUCA and soft skills.FindingsCuriosity, when encouraged and supported within the workforce, may aid organizations in closing soft skill gaps and better navigating ambiguity, perpetually changing business landscapes, and rapidly advancing technology.Research limitations/implicationsEmpirical research is needed to validate, confirm and further explicate the specific mechanisms and value of curiosity within VUCA environments.Practical implicationsOrganizations need to move beyond espousing a value of curiosity to deliberately and effectively cultivating and supporting it within their employees.Originality/valueAlthough ample research and literature has examined curiosity, soft skills and VUCA environments independently, the body of literature on the specific role of curiosity in such environments is limited.


2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Shasha Wang ◽  
Arnold Japutra ◽  
Sebastián Molinillo

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to test the influence of branded premiums or branded free gifts (e.g. a free of charge suitcase of a well-recognised brand) on tourism destination promotion. Specifically, the impact of brand name and price value of a branded premium on promoting a tourism destination was examined. Design/methodology/approach This research uses two experiment-based studies, applying a between-group experimental design. Findings The results revealed that appreciation leads to intention to visit the promoted destination when the branded promotion is offered. When a destination promotional offer contains a branded premium, consumers respond more favourably to the brand name of the premium than the price value of the premium. This finding applies to consumers’ responses to both the destination and the premium. Research limitations/implications This research adds to the body of knowledge on tourism destination promotion and the branding literature, specifically with promotional and branded premiums. Practical implications Mutual benefits can be obtained by both tourism destination marketers and premium marketers. Originality/value This research highlights the importance of branded premiums in tourism destination promotional offers. This research also shows the influence of the price value of a premium’s brand name in a tourism destination promotional offer.


2015 ◽  
Vol 27 (1) ◽  
pp. 148-158
Author(s):  
Xiaojiu Li ◽  
Xiaoning Jing

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to obtain circumference sizes from 2D feature sizes in the parts of three vital measurements of young female, the dimensions of chest width, chest depth, waist width, waist depth, hip width, hip depth, chest girth, waist girth and hip girth of 400 young female samples are collected. Design/methodology/approach – Inside which, 300 samples are used as learning samples, and the remaining 100 samples are used as training samples, the sample data are entered to the network constructed by support vector machine regression (SVR) and the predictive value of circumference sizes are gained. Findings – Finally, the regression model is established between 2D feature size and the corresponding circumference size. Through the trained prediction model based on SVR, the circumference sizes in three vital measurement parts of a new sample are predicted for convenient mass measurement. Originality/value – The research of measurement regression relationship in parts of three vital measurements of young female is the basis for conveniently obtaining dimensions in garment mass measurement. It can provide the accurate data to feminine dress industry, and has high precision.


2020 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 365-377
Author(s):  
Claudia Emeline Cox

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to provide some initial reflections on the complexities and challenges faced when conducting observations with police officers working in response and neighbourhood policing roles from the perspective of a young, female, researcher.Design/methodology/approachThe research consisted of 200 hours spent with operational police officers in a medium sized UK police force, predominantly in 3 cities, to explore the realities of frontline policing and policy implementation. This paper offers a reflexive account of conducting the research, as opposed to a discussion of the findings which align to the original research aim.FindingsConducting this fieldwork highlighted a number of complexities arising as a result of conducting ethnographic research in policing. This paper is concerned with the constructing of a researcher identity and navigating moral dilemmas based on the culture and use of language observed.Originality/valueWhilst this will be of interest to those engaged with similar policing research, such findings are also likely to apply to those conducting ethnography where there is conflict between their insider/outsider status, the potential for internalised moral debates and women conducting research in male-dominated settings.


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