scholarly journals Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers

2019 ◽  
Vol 66 (1) ◽  
pp. 183-195 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eva López-Rivera ◽  
Juan José González-Badillo

Abstract Intermittent isometric endurance of the forearm flexors is a determinant factor of sport climbing performance. However, little is known about the best method to improve grip endurance in sport climbing regarding maximal or intermittent dead-hang training methods. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of three 8-week finger training programs using dead-hangs (maximal, intermittent, and a combination) on grip endurance. Twenty-six advanced sport climbers (7c+/8a mean climbing ability) were randomly distributed among three groups: maximal dead-hangs with maximal added weight on an 18 mm edge followed by MaxHangs on minimal edge depth; intermittent dead-hangs using the minimal edge depth, and a combination of both. The grip endurance gains and effect size were 34% and 0.6, respectively, for the group following maximal dead-hang training, 45% and 1, respectively, for the group following intermittent dead-hang training, and 7% and 0.1, respectively, for the group applying the combination of both training methods. Grip endurance increased significantly after 4 weeks in the group performing intermittent dead-hangs (p = 0.004) and after 8 weeks in both groups performing intermittent dead-hangs (p = 0.002) and MaxHangs (p = 0.010). The results suggest that the intermittent dead-hangs training method seems to be more effective for grip endurance development after eight week application in advanced sport-climbers. However, both methods, maximal and intermittent dead-hangs, could be alternated for longer training periods

2020 ◽  
Vol 6 (1) ◽  
pp. 383
Author(s):  
Cem Akyuz ◽  
Asiye Filiz Camliguney

The objective of this study is to assess the impact of deceleration training method on improving dynamic balance skills of young soccer players in comparison with the conventional training methods. This study included 26 young soccer players (mean age: 13.54±1.48, height: 154.98±12.44, weight: 46.16±11.06, Body Mass Index 18.96±2.21 kg/m2, fat percentile 18.22%±3.22). Thirteen players participated in the deceleration training group (DTG) group and thirteen players participated in the conventional training group (CTG). The training programs were executed on three nonconsecutive days in a week for a total of eight weeks. Y-balance tests were conducted both before and after the eight week training programs. The differences between the averages were analyzed with Wilcoxon, comparison between the groups were analyzed with Mann-Whitney-U post hoc analyses. There was no difference in left-right balance variation (p > 0.05) performance measurements between DTG and CTG before the exercise program. However, after the 8 week training programs, the performance measurements between DTG and CTG were significantly different (p < 0.05) and the dynamic balance skill development of the DTG were more advanced. Based on these results, the deceleration training method seems to be a more effective method in developing dynamic balance skills than conventional training methods.


2021 ◽  
Vol 18 (2) ◽  
pp. 49-56
Author(s):  
Adelina-Loredana MANEA ◽  

This paper aims to find the best training method for students who wish to obtain performance in mathematics. School, special curricula for the gifted and self-instruction are just some of the methods students choose in order to achieve excellence in mathematics. This research aims to outline a general method for efficient student training, also taking into account the anxiety generated by mathematical competitions (Mathematical Anxiety). The study is based on the author's ten years’ experience in coordinating advanced mathematics training programs for students in Braşov, Romania.


Author(s):  
Lucia Vigoroso ◽  
Federica Caffaro ◽  
Margherita Micheletti Cremasco ◽  
Eugenio Cavallo

Digital games have been successfully applied in different working sectors as an occupational safety training method, but with a very limited application in agriculture. In agriculture and other productive sectors, unintentional injuries tend to occur with similar dynamics. A literature review was carried out to understand how occupational risks are addressed during game-based safety training in different productive sectors and how this can be transferred to agriculture. Literature about “serious game” and “gamification” as safety training methods was searched in WEB OF SCIENCE, SCOPUS, PUBMED and PsycINFO databases. In the forty-two publications retained, the computer was identified as the most adopted game support, whereas “points”, “levels”, “challenges” and “discovery” were the preferred game mechanics. Moreover, an association can be detected between the game mechanics and the elements developed in the game. Finally, during the game assessment, much positive feedback was collected and the games proved to be able to increase the operators’ skills and safety knowledge. In light of the results, insights are provided to develop an effective, satisfying and engaging safety game training for workers employed in agriculture. Games can be best used to learn and they are certain to improve over the next few years.


Author(s):  
Binbing Song ◽  
Hiroko Itoh ◽  
Yasumi Kawamura

AbstractVessel traffic service (VTS) is important to protect the safety of maritime traffic. Along with the expansion of monitoring area per VTS operator in Tokyo Bay, Japan, inexperienced operators must acquire the ability to quickly and accurately detect conditions that requires attention (CRAs) from a monitoring screen. In our previous study (Song B, Itoh H, Kawamura Y, Fukuto J (2018) Analysis of Cognitive Processes of Operators of Vessel Traffic Service. In: Proceedings of the 2018 International Association of Institutes of Navigation. IAIN 2018, pp 529–534, Song et al., J Jpn Inst Navig 140:48–54, 2019), we established a task analysis method based on the assumption that the cognitive process model consists of three stages: “situational awareness”, “situation judgment”, and “decision making”. A simulation experiment was conducted for VTS operators with different levels of ability and their cognitive processes were compared based on the observation of eye movements. The results showed that the inexperienced operators’ abilities to predict situation changes were lower. And it was considered that oral transmission of the knowledge is difficult, thus new training methods are needed to help the inexperienced operators to understand the prediction methods of experienced operators. In this study, based on the cognitive process of an experienced operator, we analyzed the prediction procedures of situation changes and developed an educational tool called vessel traffic routine (VTR). The training method learning VTR aims to quickly improve inexperienced VTS operators’ abilities to predict situation changes. A simulation verification experiment of the VTR effect was conducted for four inexperienced operators, who were divided into two groups with and without prior explanation of VTR. By evaluating the cognitive processes of inexperienced operators, it was confirmed that those given prior explanations of VTR were better at detecting CRAs.


2021 ◽  
Vol 4 (2) ◽  
pp. 152-172
Author(s):  
Agung Susila Susila ◽  
Budi Santosa ◽  
Muhammad Sayuti

The results showed that: (1) Based on the test, the results of the research proved that the Training Method (X1) proved to have a positive effect on the Work Ability of Training Graduates at UPTD BLK Wonogiri (Y); (2) Based on the test, it turns out that the results of the study prove that the Instructor / Trainer (X2) has no positive effect on the Work Ability of Training Graduates at UPTD BLK Wonogiri (Y); (3) Based on the test, it turns out that the research results prove that the Instructor / Trainer (X3) has a positive effect on the Work Ability of Training Graduates at UPTD BLK Wonogiri; (4) Based on the test, it turns out that the research results prove that the Method of Facilities and Infrastructure (X4) has a positive effect on the Work Ability of Training Graduates at UPTD BLK Wonogiri (Y); (5) Based on the test, it turns out that the research results prove that the certificate (X5) is proven to have a positive effect on the Work Ability of Training Graduates at UPTD BLK Wonogiri (Y); (6) Based on testing simultaneously (Test F), it turns out that the results of the research prove that all variables of Training Methods, Instructors / Trainers, Training Materials and Facilities and Infrastructure as well as certificates together or simultaneously prove to have a positive effect on the factor formation of the variables. Apparel Garment Program Training at UPTD BLK Wonogiri.


2018 ◽  
pp. 1276-1293
Author(s):  
Lavinia Rasca ◽  
Alecxandrina Deaconu

This chapter is the result of a study conducted by the authors aiming to study the impact that business education and training have on the increase of managerial competence, important to obtaining and maintaining the corporate advantage of the companies acting in Romania and consequently to country performance. The scope of the research is global, searching for the best practices that can be transferred from other countries to Romania and adapted to the local environment. A multitude of managerial education and training methods and programs are studied – EMBA, MBA, open and customized training programs. A literature review created a good understanding of the topic, being the starting point of the quantitative and qualitative research. The chapter will be useful for business schools and training companies, for participants in managerial education and training programs, and for governmental bodies, and should contribute to the increase of educational performance and convergence with European developments.


Author(s):  
Ernest W. Brewer ◽  
Stephen D. Stockton ◽  
Tammi M. Basile

The key to an organization’s abilities to provide effective training in the 21st century is by infusing technology into their training programs. Before technology infusion can occur, there must be a clear understanding of the dynamics of learning with technology and of the instructional culture of the organization. Developers of effective training programs infuse technology based on four phases—development, integration, implementation, and evaluation. The development phase involves the analysis of the organization, the creation of training goals and objectives, and the design of the training program. The integration phase determines the organization’s technology levels and allows developers and trainers to expedite training methods suitable for particular needs. The implementation phase consists of the actual delivery of the training. The evaluation phase is ongoing through formative evaluation, and it ends with a summative evaluation. Future trends of technology in training show promising models for effective individualized training in virtual environments.


2010 ◽  
Vol 109 (5) ◽  
pp. 1455-1466 ◽  
Author(s):  
Carolina Vila-Chã ◽  
Deborah Falla ◽  
Dario Farina

The study investigated changes in motor output and motor unit behavior following 6 wk of either strength or endurance training programs commonly used in conditioning and rehabilitation. Twenty-seven sedentary healthy men (age, 26.1 ± 3.9 yr; mean ± SD) were randomly assigned to strength training (ST; n = 9), endurance training (ET; n = 10), or a control group (CT; n = 8). Maximum voluntary contraction (MVC), time to task failure (isometric contraction at 30% MVC), and rate of force development (RFD) of the quadriceps were measured before ( week 0), during ( week 3), and after a training program of 6 wk. In each experimental session, surface and intramuscular EMG signals were recorded from the vastus medialis obliquus and vastus lateralis muscles during isometric knee extension at 10 and 30% MVC. After 6 wk of training, MVC and RFD increased in the ST group (17.5 ± 7.5 and 33.3 ± 15.9%, respectively; P < 0.05), whereas time to task failure was prolonged in the ET group (29.7 ± 13.4%; P < 0.05). The surface EMG amplitude at 30% MVC force increased with training in both groups, but the training-induced changes in motor unit discharge rates differed between groups. After endurance training, the motor unit discharge rate at 30% MVC decreased from 11.3 ± 1.3 to 10.1 ± 1.1 pulses per second (pps; P < 0.05) in the vasti muscles, whereas after strength training it increased from 11.4 ± 1.2 to 12.7 ± 1.3 pps ( P < 0.05). Finally, motor unit conduction velocity during the contractions at 30% MVC increased for both the ST and ET groups, but only after 6 wk of training ( P < 0.05). In conclusion, these strength and endurance training programs elicit opposite adjustments in motor unit discharge rates but similar changes in muscle fiber conduction velocity.


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