scholarly journals Influence of the nonlinearity on statistical characteristics of long wave runup

2011 ◽  
Vol 18 (6) ◽  
pp. 967-975 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Denissenko ◽  
I. Didenkulova ◽  
E. Pelinovsky ◽  
J. Pearson

Abstract. Runup of long irregular waves on a plane beach is studied experimentally in the water flume at the University of Warwick. Statistics of wave runup (displacement and velocity of the moving shoreline and their extreme values) is analyzed for the incident wave field with the narrow band spectrum for different amplitudes of incident waves (different values of the breaking parameter Brσ). It is shown experimentally that the distribution of the shoreline velocity does not depend on Brσ and coincides with the distribution of the vertical velocity in the incident wave field as it is predicted in the statistical theory of nonlinear long wave runup. Statistics of runup amplitudes shows the same behavior as that of the incident wave amplitudes. However, the distribution of the wave runup on a beach differs from the statistics of the incident wave elevation. The mean sea level at the coast rises with an increase in Brσ causing wave set-up on a beach, which agrees with the theoretical predictions. At the same time values of skewness and kurtosis for wave runup are similar to those for the incident wave field and they might be used for the forecast of sea floods at the coast.

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ahmed Abdalazeez ◽  
Denys Dutykh ◽  
Ira Didenkulova ◽  
Céline Labart

<p>The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address different levels of nonlinearity, the time series with five different significant wave heights are considered. The total time of each such calculated time-series is 1000 hours.</p><p>It is shown for narrow-banded wave signal that runup oscillations are no more distributed by the Gaussian distribution. The distribution is shifted to the right towards larger positive values of wave runup. Its mean value increases with an increase in nonlinearity, which reflects the known phenomenon of wave set-up. The higher moments of runup oscillations, skewness and kurtosis are negative. The skewness is decreasing with an increase in wave nonlinearity, while kurtosis is negative and varies non-monotonically with an increase in wave nonlinearity. For Gaussian wide-banded signal, the runup oscillations also deviate from Gaussian distribution. The distribution is also shifted to the right towards larger positive values of wave runup. Its mean values increase with an increase in nonlinearity, while all other higher moments change non-monotonically.     </p><p>For the extreme wave runup heights, we conclude that the tail of the probability density function behaves like a conditional Weibull distribution if the incident random waves are represented by Gaussian narrow-banded or wide-banded spectrum. This distribution can be used for evaluation of wave inundation during extreme floods (rogue runups). </p>


1984 ◽  
Vol 106 (1) ◽  
pp. 29-35 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Cawley

The susceptibility to bias error of two methods for computing transfer (frequency response) functions from spectra produced by FFT-based analyzers using random excitation has been investigated. Results from tests with an FFT analyzer on a single degree-of-freedom system set up on an analogue computer show good agreement with the theoretical predictions. It has been shown that, around resonance, the bias error in the transfer function estimate H2 (Syy/Sxy*) is considerably less than that in the more commonly used estimate, H1 (Sxy/Sxx). The record length, and hence the testing time, required for a given accuracy is reduced by over 50 percent if the H2 calculation procedure is used. The analysis has also shown that if shaker excitation is used on lightly damped structures with low modal mass, it is important to minimize the mass of the force gage and the moving element of the shaker.


Author(s):  
Willem Vos ◽  
Petter Norli ◽  
Emilie Vallee

This paper describes a novel technique for the detection of cracks in pipelines. The proposed in-line inspection technique has the ability to detect crack features at random angles in the pipeline, such as axial, circumferential, and any angle in between. This ability is novel to the current ILI technology offering and will also add value by detecting cracks in deformed pipes (i.e. in dents), and cracks associated with the girth weld (mid weld cracks, rapid cooling cracks and cracks parallel to the weld). Furthermore, the technology is suitable for detection of cracks in spiral welded pipes, both parallel to the spiral weld as well as perpendicular to the weld. Integrity issues around most features described above are not addressed with ILI tools, often forcing operators to perform hydrostatic tests to ensure pipeline safety. The technology described here is based on the use of wideband ultrasound inline inspection tools that are already in operation. They are designed for the inspection of structures operating in challenging environments such as offshore pipelines. Adjustments to the front-end analog system and data collection from a grid of transducers allow the tools to detect cracks in any orientation in the line. Description of changes to the test set-up are presented as well as the theoretical background behind crack detection. Historical development of the technology will be presented, such as early laboratory testing and proof of concept. The proof of concept data will be compared to the theoretical predictions. A detailed set of results are presented. These are from tests that were performed on samples sourced from North America and Europe which contain SCC features. Results from ongoing testing will be presented, which involved large-scale testing on SCC features in gas-filled pipe spools.


Author(s):  
Eirini Spentza ◽  
Chris Swan

This paper concerns the nonlinear interaction of waves with a floating vessel. A detailed experimental study has been undertaken in a 3-D wave basin, using a scaled model tanker subject to a variety of incident wave conditions. The vessel, which is free to move in heave, pitch and roll, has a draft of 14m (at full-scale) and is subject to a range of incident wave periods propagating at right angles to the side shell of the vessel. Measurements undertaken with and without the vessel in place allow the diffracted-radiated wave field to be identified. The laboratory data indicate that the diffracted-radiated wave pattern varies significantly with the incident wave period. Detailed analysis of the experimental results has identified a hitherto unexpected second-order freely propagating wave harmonic generated due to the presence of the vessel. Given its frequency content and its relatively slow speed of propagation, this harmonic leads to a significant steepening of the wave field around the vessel and therefore has an important role to play in terms of the occurrence of wave slamming. Physical insights are provided concerning the latter and the practical implications of the overall wave-structure interactions are considered.


2020 ◽  
Vol 70 (1) ◽  
pp. 82-89
Author(s):  
Beya Tahenti ◽  
Frederik Coghe ◽  
Rachid Nasri

The armour technologist conducts ballistic impact testing either for evaluating armour materials and systems or for studying material’s defeating mechanism. Most standards make use of the ballistic limit velocity for ballistic assessment. This is the bullet impact velocity that leads to the protection perforation in 50 per cent of the cases. Various models have been emerged to estimate this key metric. The present article summarises the popular models developed for ballistic limit estimation. An attempt is made to point out models’ strength and weakness. First, the experimental set-up used for that goal is displayed. Next, a concise overview of ballistic limit estimation methods is presented. Lastly, a discussion is dedicated to model’s comparison and analysis. This literature survey reveals that the main drawback of already existing methods is that they are purely statistical. Moreover, existing methods are based on the normality assumption of perforation velocities which tends from -infinity to infinity. The main conclusion of this survey is that the presented methods offer a comparable accuracy in estimating the ballistic limit velocity. However, a given variability is remarked when extreme values estimation is of interest, impact velocities leading to low and high perforation probability. Finally, existing models’ performances decay with the reduction of the experimental sample size which represent a constraining requirement in ballistic resistance assessment.


Author(s):  
Marion Tissier ◽  
Jochem Dekkers ◽  
Ad Reniers ◽  
Stuart Pearson ◽  
Ap Van Dongeren

Several studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs (e.g, Gallagher, 1976; Nwogu and Demirbilek, 2010) but the importance of this phenomenon for reef hydrodynamics has never been studied. Yet, the transformation of a long wave (e.g., swell or infragravity wave) into an undular bore leads to significant modifications of the wave field. The formation of undulations is for example associated to a significant increase of the leading bore height. Moreover, if the undulations have enough time to develop (i.e. if the reef flat is wide enough), the initial long wave will ultimately split into a series of solitons (e.g., Grue et al., 2008). All this is likely to affect wave run-up. As reeffronted coastlines are particularly vulnerable to flooding, a good understanding of long wave transformation over the reef flat, including their possible transformation into undular bores, is crucial. In this study, we investigate undular bore development over reef-type profiles based on a series of laboratory experiments. More specifically, we aim to characterize the conditions under which undular bores develop, and analyse how their development affect the hydrodynamics at the toe of the reef-lined beach and the resulting wave run-up.


2013 ◽  
Vol 726 ◽  
pp. 404-438 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Camassa ◽  
S. Chen ◽  
G. Falqui ◽  
G. Ortenzi ◽  
M. Pedroni

AbstractConsequences of density stratification are studied for an ideal (Euler) incompressible fluid, confined to move under gravity between rigid lids but otherwise free to move along horizontal directions. Initial conditions that generate horizontal pressure imbalances in a laterally unbounded domain are examined. The aim is to show analytically the existence of classes of initial data for which total horizontal momentum evolves in time, even though only vertical forces act on the fluid in this set-up. A simple class of such initial conditions, leading to momentum evolution, is identified by systematic asymptotic expansions of the governing inhomogeneous Euler equations in the small-density-variation limit. These results for Euler equations are compared and confirmed with long-wave asymptotic models, which can handle arbitrary density variations and provide closed-form mathematical expressions for limiting cases. In particular, the role of wave dispersion arising from the fluid inertia is captured by the long-wave models, even for short-time dynamics emanating from initial conditions outside the models’ asymptotic range of validity. These results are compared with direct numerical simulations for variable-density Euler fluids, which further validate the numerical algorithms and the analysis.


1973 ◽  
Vol 21 ◽  
pp. 35-48
Author(s):  
Steven Van Agt

Interest in dwarf spheroidal galaxies is motivated by a number of reasons; an important one on the occasion of this colloquium is the abundance of variable stars. The theory of stellar evolution and stellar pulsations is now able to predict from theoretical considerations characteristic properties of variable stars in the colour-magnitude diagram (Iben, 1971). By observing the variable stars in the field, and in as wide a selection of objects as possible, more insight can be obtained into the history of the oldest members of our Galaxy (the globular clusters) and of the dwarf spheroidal galaxies in the Local Group. It is worthwhile to explore the spheroidal galaxies as observational tests for the theoretical predictions of conditions in space away from our Galaxy. The numbers of variable stars in the dwarf spheroidal galaxies are such that we may expect well-defined relations to emerge once reliable magnitude sequences have been set up, the variable stars found, and their periods determined. Six dwarf spheroidal galaxies are presently known in the Local Group within a distance of 250 kpc. In Table I, which lists members of the Local Group, they are at the low-luminosity end of the sequence of elliptical galaxies (van den Bergh, 1968).


2020 ◽  
Vol 8 (12) ◽  
pp. 993
Author(s):  
Jonas Pinault ◽  
Denis Morichon ◽  
Volker Roeber

Accurate wave runup estimations are of great interest for coastal risk assessment and engineering design. Phase-resolving depth-integrated numerical models offer a promising alternative to commonly used empirical formulae at relatively low computational cost. Several operational models are currently freely available and have been extensively used in recent years for the computation of nearshore wave transformations and runup. However, recommendations for best practices on how to correctly utilize these models in computations of runup processes are still sparse. In this work, the Boussinesq-type model BOSZ is applied to calculate runup from irregular waves on intermediate and reflective beaches. The results are compared to an extensive laboratory data set of LiDAR measurements from wave transformation and shoreline elevation oscillations. The physical processes within the surf and swash zones such as the transfer from gravity to infragravity energy and dissipation are accurately accounted for. In addition, time series of the shoreline oscillations are well captured by the model. Comparisons of statistical values such as R2% show relative errors of less than 6%. The sensitivity of the results to various model parameters is investigated to allow for recommendations of best practices for modeling runup with phase-resolving depth-integrated models. While the breaking index is not found to be a key parameter for the examined cases, the grid size and the threshold depth, at which the runup is computed, are found to have significant influence on the results. The use of a time series, which includes both amplitude and phase information, is required for an accurate modeling of swash processes, as shown by computations with different sets of random waves, displaying a high variability and decreasing the agreement between the experiment and the model results substantially. The infragravity swash SIG is found to be sensitive to the initial phase distribution, likely because it is related to the short wave envelope.


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