FASHIONGRAPHICS AND COSTUME DESIGN IN UKRAINE IN THE 1920s

The purposeof the paperis to study the fashion peculiarities in Ukraine based on the analysis of fashion graphics of “Fashion Magazine”, which was published in Kyiv and Kharkiv in the 1920s. The events of fashion life in Ukraine are considered in the context of current world fashion trends. Methodology. The methods of historical-chronological and comparative analysis, methods of visual information systematization have been used in the paper. Results. The social conditions for the first specialized fashion publication in Ukraine have been identified.The description of fashion trends of the 1920s has been given based on the analysis of women’s clothing models presented on the pages of “Fashion magazine”.The analysis of changes in Western fashion during the twenties in the Soviet Union has been carried out.Featured artistic expression means of fashion graphics, compositional solutions of magazine centerfolds have been considered. The connection between popular fashion images and events in the Ukrainian republic has been shown, namely: changes in the women’s role in society, the spread of sports, new formats of leisure. The reasons for the transformation of the figurative language of fashion graphics of the early twentieth century have been generalized, the connection of the magazine fashion graphics evolution with the general changes in the world fine arts has been analyzed.The scientific novelty is that there have been introduced the facts of publishing the first domestic magazines on fashion, analyzed the specifics of fashion in Ukraine in the 1920s on the basis of fashion graphics samples from Ukrainian magazines for the first time in the context of Ukrainian fashion history. The practical significance lies in the fact that the information offered in the article fills certain gaps in the Ukrainian fashion history.The practical works of artists who created relevant fashion images in the early twentieth century by means of graphics can be used today both in the process of designing new clothes and in order to promote new costume design ideas.

Textos Jornalísticos Nas Revistas De Moda: Um Estudo Das Publicações Usuais na Vogue E Harper´s Bazaar

Este estudo tem por objetivo identificar os textos mais comuns produzidos no jornalismo de moda nacional. Deste modo buscou-se levantar os tipos mais usuais, tendo como foco a classificação de Joffily (1991) e Flores (2018). O recorte de pesquisa elegeu duas revistas de importante circulação no país: Vogue e Harper´s Bazaar. Ao todo foram analisados 517 textos publicados em seis meses nos dois veículos. Conclusivamente o estudo mostra que o texto de jornalismo de moda, ainda que abarque marcas textuais exclusivas, tem focado na produção noticiosa, explorando pouco o viés opinativo e, investido em produções que se encaixam no jornalismo de serviço e no perfil. Journalistic Texts in Fashion Magazines: A study of usual publications in Vogue and Harper ́s BazaarAbstractThis study aims to identify the most common texts produced in national fashion journalism. We sought to identify the most usual types, focusing on the Joffily (1991) and Flores (2018) classification. The research selected two magazines of major circulation in the country: Vogue and Harper ́s Bazaar. In all, 517 texts published during six months in both media outlets were analyzed. In conclusion, the study shows that the fashion journalism text, despite exclusive discourse marks, has focused on news production, exploring little opinion and investing in productions that fit the service and profile journalism. Keywords: Journalistic genres; fashion journalism; fashion magazine.

On black style: black style in the blogosphere

This creative research project titled On Black Style: Black Style in the Blogosphere is an explorative study of black style and black identities as seen through the fashion blogosphere. It explores how the fashion blogosphere has allowed individuals of Black African descent to advance sartorial representations of black identities in fashion media, as well as visualizations of black style. Data were collected from two groupings of voluntary participants. The first involved 2 fashion bloggers of Black African descent; the second involved 36 individuals of Black African descent from the Greater Toronto Area and Montréal who were recruited as street style participants. Themes drawn from analyses of the findings include post-black style, the problematic portrayal of black subjects in fashion media, and the incalculable influence of black style in the fashion blogosphere. Presented as an online fashion magazine, On Black Style features 20 street style participants. It is viewable at www.onblackstyle.com.

On black style: black style in the blogosphere

This creative research project titled On Black Style: Black Style in the Blogosphere is an explorative study of black style and black identities as seen through the fashion blogosphere. It explores how the fashion blogosphere has allowed individuals of Black African descent to advance sartorial representations of black identities in fashion media, as well as visualizations of black style. Data were collected from two groupings of voluntary participants. The first involved 2 fashion bloggers of Black African descent; the second involved 36 individuals of Black African descent from the Greater Toronto Area and Montréal who were recruited as street style participants. Themes drawn from analyses of the findings include post-black style, the problematic portrayal of black subjects in fashion media, and the incalculable influence of black style in the fashion blogosphere. Presented as an online fashion magazine, On Black Style features 20 street style participants. It is viewable at www.onblackstyle.com.

Content and demographic discrepancies that exist between women's fashion magazines and their corresponding websites

Introduction: The digitization of women’s fashion magazines is an on-going development in recent years. The rise of fashion bloggers and online-only fashion publications on the internet have forced major print publications to develop and expand their companion websites. Over the last decade, sales of print fashion magazines have steadily declined, while costs of printing have steadily risen. As a result, major publications have looked towards the cheaper alternative of developing websites in order to deliver digital content to their readers and further establish a strong presence online. By utilizing such digital platforms, women’s fashion publications have found a way to reach large audiences with generally free and easily accessible content that is produced with a high frequency. With a secondary medium of digital fashion magazines complimenting their original print publications, discrepancies in content between print and digital platforms emerge. Several factors play a part in the discrepancy between print and digital content. One of the primary factors, suggested by researcher Ytre-Anne is the way in which older audiences prefer physical print editions of magazines over newer digital alternatives (Ytre-Anne 2011). This factor may cause print fashion magazines to specifically cater towards an older demographic in order to maintain or increase sales. Furthermore, as the development of the internet and the rise of fashion blogs in the late 1990s into the new millennium worked to target younger audiences who were familiar with technological advancements, it may be argued that a younger readership may be the target of online publications (Magee 2012, Turner 2009). Similarly, other studies have shown that younger audiences prefer fashion products to be featured on, or endorsed by celebrities, pointing towards the idea that a younger audience prefers content with celebrity news or features. Other factors that might indicate discrepancies in content are product price ranges, with lower priced ready-to-wear fashion featured more frequently online. Alongside such differences in content, several technical features can also cause differences in content. As the internet allows for instant updates on the latest news and fashion, magazine websites are now outputting content on a daily basis as opposed to their print counterparts who typically produce editions on a monthly basis. This phenomenon can ultimately lead to differences in content between the print and online versions of a fashion magazine. My Major Research Project will seek to identify key developments and patterns that might derive from discrepancies in content between women’s fashion magazines’ print editions and their corresponding websites. Using a primarily qualitative approach, my research study will include a content analysis of four North American women’s fashion magazines and a series of interviews with corresponding fashion editors. The content analysis will look for several characteristics present in each fashion magazine’s print edition and its corresponding website, including product pricing, demographic target, as well as celebrity references. The content analysis will further work to compare data between each fashion magazine’s print edition and its corresponding website. In order to further my evidence I will conduct interviews with fashion magazine editors to gain a professional perspective on the subject. The interview portion of this research study will work to provide professional opinion on the subject of content and demographic discrepancies between print fashion magazines and their corresponding websites. Overall, I am interested in the topic of content discrepancies between published print fashion magazines versus their corresponding websites. My aim is not to argue for or against one medium, but instead to look at the implications that might result from content discrepancies between the two mediums. Finally, I hypothesize two primary results: (1) that there are discrepancy patterns in content between a fashion magazine’s print edition and its website, and (2) these discrepancies suggest a difference in demographics, in which online formats target a younger audience and print versions aim to appeal to an older demographic. These findings will work to illuminate key patterns in the fashion publishing industry in terms of content and demographic discrepancies found between online and print versions. As little research has been conducted in this area, it will act as a starting point for future research to explore these patterns more in depth. As digital fashion journalism is still a topic under development, this study will contribute towards a larger goal of conceptualizing digital journalism more broadly. Similarly, the results of this study aim to provide insight and analysis into the current trends in fashion journalism, further assisting fashion editors and journalists in the industry. The overall goal of my research project will seek to establish that within the field of fashion publication in the year 2015, age is an important factor in patterns of print versus online fashion journalism.

Content and demographic discrepancies that exist between women's fashion magazines and their corresponding websites

Introduction: The digitization of women’s fashion magazines is an on-going development in recent years. The rise of fashion bloggers and online-only fashion publications on the internet have forced major print publications to develop and expand their companion websites. Over the last decade, sales of print fashion magazines have steadily declined, while costs of printing have steadily risen. As a result, major publications have looked towards the cheaper alternative of developing websites in order to deliver digital content to their readers and further establish a strong presence online. By utilizing such digital platforms, women’s fashion publications have found a way to reach large audiences with generally free and easily accessible content that is produced with a high frequency. With a secondary medium of digital fashion magazines complimenting their original print publications, discrepancies in content between print and digital platforms emerge. Several factors play a part in the discrepancy between print and digital content. One of the primary factors, suggested by researcher Ytre-Anne is the way in which older audiences prefer physical print editions of magazines over newer digital alternatives (Ytre-Anne 2011). This factor may cause print fashion magazines to specifically cater towards an older demographic in order to maintain or increase sales. Furthermore, as the development of the internet and the rise of fashion blogs in the late 1990s into the new millennium worked to target younger audiences who were familiar with technological advancements, it may be argued that a younger readership may be the target of online publications (Magee 2012, Turner 2009). Similarly, other studies have shown that younger audiences prefer fashion products to be featured on, or endorsed by celebrities, pointing towards the idea that a younger audience prefers content with celebrity news or features. Other factors that might indicate discrepancies in content are product price ranges, with lower priced ready-to-wear fashion featured more frequently online. Alongside such differences in content, several technical features can also cause differences in content. As the internet allows for instant updates on the latest news and fashion, magazine websites are now outputting content on a daily basis as opposed to their print counterparts who typically produce editions on a monthly basis. This phenomenon can ultimately lead to differences in content between the print and online versions of a fashion magazine. My Major Research Project will seek to identify key developments and patterns that might derive from discrepancies in content between women’s fashion magazines’ print editions and their corresponding websites. Using a primarily qualitative approach, my research study will include a content analysis of four North American women’s fashion magazines and a series of interviews with corresponding fashion editors. The content analysis will look for several characteristics present in each fashion magazine’s print edition and its corresponding website, including product pricing, demographic target, as well as celebrity references. The content analysis will further work to compare data between each fashion magazine’s print edition and its corresponding website. In order to further my evidence I will conduct interviews with fashion magazine editors to gain a professional perspective on the subject. The interview portion of this research study will work to provide professional opinion on the subject of content and demographic discrepancies between print fashion magazines and their corresponding websites. Overall, I am interested in the topic of content discrepancies between published print fashion magazines versus their corresponding websites. My aim is not to argue for or against one medium, but instead to look at the implications that might result from content discrepancies between the two mediums. Finally, I hypothesize two primary results: (1) that there are discrepancy patterns in content between a fashion magazine’s print edition and its website, and (2) these discrepancies suggest a difference in demographics, in which online formats target a younger audience and print versions aim to appeal to an older demographic. These findings will work to illuminate key patterns in the fashion publishing industry in terms of content and demographic discrepancies found between online and print versions. As little research has been conducted in this area, it will act as a starting point for future research to explore these patterns more in depth. As digital fashion journalism is still a topic under development, this study will contribute towards a larger goal of conceptualizing digital journalism more broadly. Similarly, the results of this study aim to provide insight and analysis into the current trends in fashion journalism, further assisting fashion editors and journalists in the industry. The overall goal of my research project will seek to establish that within the field of fashion publication in the year 2015, age is an important factor in patterns of print versus online fashion journalism.

From magazines to blogs: The shifting boundaries of fashion journalism

Current literature examining journalism’s boundary work has focused mostly on traditional, hard news journalism, while soft news journalism, such as lifestyle journalism, has largely been overlooked. Guided by the framework of boundary work, this paper examines how traditional fashion journalists and fashion bloggers define their own professionalism and what that says about the negotiation of fashion journalism’s boundaries. Through a textual analysis of the ‘About’ pages of 40 mainstream fashion magazine websites and fashion blogs, this paper shows that fashion magazines and fashion blogs demonstrate differences in four areas: mode of presentation, rituals of asserting authority, organisational structure, and relationship with the audience. For each theme, fashion magazine websites and fashion blogs display different approaches that help to shape their professional identities. These four areas serve as markers of the emerging – and perhaps blurring – boundaries between the two media actors. Findings from this study have implications not just on boundary work in journalism, but also on the very definitions of journalist and journalism, and on the evolving digital cultural industry, particularly in relation to lifestyle-centred content.

On the Edge of 1990s Japan: Kyoko Okazaki and the Horror of Adolescence

This chapter presents a study of the social struggles around female sexuality in the context of the economical struggles of 1990s Japan, as observable in one manga writer’s career. Okazaki was critical of the monstrous way young women were being portrayed in the 1980s–1990s. Her unconventional work in cutting-edge hentai, ladies comics, and subcultural fashion magazine presented commodified women’s bodies in a nuanced way. She created manga in the midst of moral panic over adolescent women that leveled a subtle critique of structures around her while leading the way toward emergent, nomadic identities for young people on the ground in this pivotal decade in Japanese cultural and financial history.

Research on Chinese Influence on Western Fashion Based on Fashion Magazine from 1970 to 1979

The decade of 1970s was a peak of Chinese influence on Western fashion. This article was intended to reveal the categories and design characteristics of Chinese-influenced clothing with classified statistical method based on collecting a total of 295 sets of designs presented during 1970-1979 from four fashion magazines. The underlying reasons for the popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing on western fashion were also analyzed and summarized. The research results showed that the Chinese-influenced clothing included three categories: outdoor daily clothes, indoor home wears and evening dresses, presenting neutral, romantic and luxury respectively. The popularity of Chinese-influenced clothing was mainly a result of some national and international factors, including anti-fashion aesthetics in the western society, the normalization of Sino-American relation and the development of Hong Kong trade.