Prévision des vagues dans l'estuaire du Saint-Laurent à l'aide d'un modèle bidimensionnel

1999 ◽  
Vol 26 (6) ◽  
pp. 713-723 ◽  
Author(s):  
L Dupuis ◽  
Y Ouellet
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Limited Region ◽  
Lawrence Estuary ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Modèle Bidimensionnel ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Hindcasting ◽  
2D Model

Until now, wave hindcasting in the Estuary and Gulf of St. Lawrence has been done with one-dimensional models. The objective of the present paper is to verify if the two-dimensional model WAWSP, developed to predict waves on the Great Lakes, could be used in the St. Lawrence estuary, a semi-open fetch limited region. Waves (significant wave heights, peak periods, and directions) hindcast by this 2D model are compared with wave data observed at two buoys in 1991, 1992, and 1993, as well as with the ones obtained with 1D models SPM-77 and SPM-84. As a whole, the 2D model gives better results than 1D models. Wave heights are well reproduced, as long as wind data are well represented. However, wave periods are much smaller than those measured, and wave directions are not accurate, mainly because of the presence of swell in the estuary. This study shows the need to obtain more wave data with better quality in order to validate wave hindcasting models.Key words: water waves, numerical modeling, wave hindcasting, 2D model, wave climate, wave height, wave period, wave direction, calculated versus measured waves.

scholarly journals MORPHOLOGY AND DYNAMICS OF CRESCENTIC BAR SYSTEMS

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 59
Author(s):  
V. Goldsmith ◽  
D. Bowman ◽  
K. Kiley ◽  
B. Burdick ◽  
Y. Mart ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Field Studies ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Phase Correlation ◽  
Mature Stage ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
Wave Heights

Aerial photograph and field studies in the southeastern Mediterranean, involving bathymetric mapping, and concurrent and antecedent wave measurements, have been used to delineate the sequential development of crescentic bars and associated dynamics. The bar sequence includes multiple parallel or wavy bars, ridge and runnels, oblique/transverse bars, single crescentic and double crescentic bars, and occurs during a calming down of wave activity from 2.5 to 0.5 m waves. The concomitant wave data, including wave directions, energy spectrum, significant wave height, and length of the calm period, showed strong correlation with the bar stages. An increase in total bar occurrence during summer is related to a major wave energy decrease in the spring, when significant wave heights (H ) < 1 m sharply increase to 70-85% in April-May. Inner single crescentic and initial double-crescentic bars are largely restricted to the calmest wave months of May/April to October/November, which reflects their sensitivity to wave energy. The aseasonal occurrence is best shown by the mature double crescentic type, which apparently is the final stage in the crescentic bar development sequence. Two bar developmental sequences were delineated: one shore-normal and the other initially oblique, but gradually rotating to shore-normal in the mature stage. Out of phase relationships between inner and outer bar systems resulted from the lag in response of the outer bars behind changes in wave direction. Among the inner crescentic bars and shore rhythms, phase-correlation was the rule. Crescentic bars are well developed on this coast because of the dissipative conditions and the distinct wave climate. High waves in the winter remove the existing bars, and extended calms allow the full development of the crescentic bar sequence. Similar bar types occur on different coasts in different sequences and in different proportions of time. Thus, it is suggested that these differences are attributable to global differences in the occurrences of threshold wave height conditions .

scholarly journals Wave Prediction in a Harbour using Deep Learning with Offshore Data

2021 ◽  
Vol 33 (6) ◽  
pp. 367-373
Author(s):  
Geun Se Lee ◽  
Dong Hyeon Jeong ◽  
Yong Ho Moon ◽  
Won Kyung Park ◽  
Jang Won Chae
Keyword(s):  
Deep Learning ◽  
Processing Method ◽  
Machine Learning Techniques ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Data Set ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Learning Techniques ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Deep Learning Model

In this study, deep learning model was set up to predict the wave heights inside a harbour. Various machine learning techniques were applied to the model in consideration of the transformation characteristics of offshore waves while propagating into the harbour. Pohang New Port was selected for model application, which had a serious problem of unloading due to swell and has lots of available wave data. Wave height, wave period, and wave direction at offshore sites and wave heights inside the harbour were used for the model input and output, respectively, and then the model was trained using deep learning method. By considering the correlation between the time series wave data of offshore and inside the harbour, the data set was separated into prevailing wave directions as a pre-processing method. As a result, It was confirmed that accuracy and stability of the model prediction are considerably increased.

scholarly journals Joint Modelling of Wave Energy Flux and Wave Direction

Processes ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 460
Author(s):  
Takvor H. Soukissian ◽  
Flora E. Karathanasi
Keyword(s):  
Energy Flux ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Goodness Of Fit ◽  
North Atlantic Ocean ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Western Mediterranean ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Bivariate Model ◽  
The North ◽  
Wave Energy Flux

In the context of wave resource assessment, the description of wave climate is usually confined to significant wave height and energy period. However, the accurate joint description of both linear and directional wave energy characteristics is essential for the proper and detailed optimization of wave energy converters. In this work, the joint probabilistic description of wave energy flux and wave direction is performed and evaluated. Parametric univariate models are implemented for the description of wave energy flux and wave direction. For wave energy flux, conventional, and mixture distributions are examined while for wave direction proven and efficient finite mixtures of von Mises distributions are used. The bivariate modelling is based on the implementation of the Johnson–Wehrly model. The examined models are applied on long-term measured wave data at three offshore locations in Greece and hindcast numerical wave model data at three locations in the western Mediterranean, the North Sea, and the North Atlantic Ocean. A global criterion that combines five individual goodness-of-fit criteria into a single expression is used to evaluate the performance of bivariate models. From the optimum bivariate model, the expected wave energy flux as function of wave direction and the distribution of wave energy flux for the mean and most probable wave directions are also obtained.

scholarly journals Comprehensive Wind and Wave Statistics and Extreme Values for Design and Analysis of Marine Structures in the Adriatic Sea

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (5) ◽  
pp. 522
Author(s):  
Marko Katalinić ◽  
Joško Parunov
Keyword(s):  
Adriatic Sea ◽  
Extreme Values ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Statistics ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Almost All

Wind and waves present the main causes of environmental loading on seagoing ships and offshore structures. Thus, its detailed understanding can improve the design and maintenance of these structures. Wind and wave statistical models are developed based on the WorldWaves database for the Adriatic Sea: for the entire Adriatic Sea as a whole, divided into three regions and for 39 uniformly spaced locations across the offshore Adriatic. Model parameters are fitted and presented for each case, following the conditional modelling approach, i.e., the marginal distribution of significant wave height and conditional distribution of peak period and wind speed. Extreme significant wave heights were evaluated for 20-, 50- and 100-year return periods. The presented data provide a consistent and comprehensive description of metocean (wind and wave) climate in the Adriatic Sea that can serve as input for almost all kind of analyses of ships and offshore structures.

scholarly journals Regional Downscaling of Copernicus ERA5 Wave Data for Coastal Engineering Activities and Operational Coastal Services

Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (6) ◽  
pp. 859
Author(s):  
Giorgio Bellotti ◽  
Leopoldo Franco ◽  
Claudia Cecioni
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
National Level ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Tyrrhenian Sea ◽  
Computational Domain ◽  
Multiple Wave ◽  
Space Resolution ◽  
Wave Data ◽  
Fundamental Information

Hindcasted wind and wave data, available on a coarse resolution global grid (Copernicus ERA5 dataset), are downscaled by means of the numerical model SWAN (simulating waves in the nearshore) to produce time series of wave conditions at a high resolution along the Italian coasts in the central Tyrrhenian Sea. In order to achieve the proper spatial resolution along the coast, the finite element version of the model is used. Wave data time series at the ERA5 grid are used to specify boundary conditions for the wave model at the offshore sides of the computational domain. The wind field is fed to the model to account for local wave generation. The modeled sea states are compared against the multiple wave records available in the area, in order to calibrate and validate the model. The model results are in quite good agreement with direct measurements, both in terms of wave climate and wave extremes. The results show that using the present modeling chain, it is possible to build a reliable nearshore wave parameters database with high space resolution. Such a database, once prepared for coastal areas, possibly at the national level, can be of high value for many engineering activities related to coastal area management, and can be useful to provide fundamental information for the development of operational coastal services.

scholarly journals Automated classification of the atmospheric circulation patterns that drive regional wave climates

2014 ◽  
Vol 14 (8) ◽  
pp. 2145-2155 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Pringle ◽  
D. D. Stretch ◽  
A. Bárdossy
Keyword(s):  
Atmospheric Circulation ◽  
Low Pressure ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Automated Classification ◽  
Coastal Vulnerability ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Atmospheric Circulation Patterns ◽  
Circulation Patterns ◽  
Spatially Distributed ◽  
Wave Heights

Abstract. Wave climates are fundamental drivers of coastal vulnerability; changing trends in wave heights, periods and directions can severely impact a coastline. In a diverse storm environment, the changes in these parameters are difficult to detect and quantify. Since wave climates are linked to atmospheric circulation patterns, an automated and objective classification scheme was developed to explore links between synoptic-scale circulation patterns and wave climate variables, specifically wave heights. The algorithm uses a set of objective functions based on wave heights to guide the classification and find atmospheric classes with strong links to wave behaviour. Spatially distributed fuzzy numbers define the classes and are used to detect locally high- and low-pressure anomalies. Classes are derived through a process of simulated annealing. The optimized classification focuses on extreme wave events. The east coast of South Africa was used as a case study. The results show that three dominant patterns drive extreme wave events. The circulation patterns exhibit some seasonality with one pattern present throughout the year. Some 50–80% of the extreme wave events are explained by these three patterns. It is evident that strong low-pressure anomalies east of the country drive a wind towards the KwaZulu-Natal coastline which results in extreme wave conditions. We conclude that the methodology can be used to link circulation patterns to wave heights within a diverse storm environment. The circulation patterns agree with qualitative observations of wave climate drivers. There are applications to the assessment of coastal vulnerability and the management of coastlines worldwide.

scholarly journals Numerical Investigation of Hydrodynamics and Cohesive Sediment Transport in Cua Lo and Cua Hoi Estuaries, Vietnam

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1258
Author(s):  
Viet Thanh Nguyen ◽  
Minh Tuan Vu ◽  
Chi Zhang
Keyword(s):  
Sediment Transport ◽  
Great Influence ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Sediment Concentration ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Cohesive Sediment ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
The South ◽  
The North ◽  
Cohesive Sediment Transport

Two-dimensional models of large spatial domain including Cua Lo and Cua Hoi estuaries in Nghe An province, Vietnam, were established, calibrated, and verified with the observed data of tidal level, wave height, wave period, wave direction, and suspended sediment concentration. The model was then applied to investigate the hydrodynamics, cohesive sediment transport, and the morphodynamics feedbacks between two estuaries. Results reveal opposite patterns of nearshore currents affected by monsoons, which flow from the north to the south during the northeast (NE) monsoon and from the south to the north during the southeast (SE) monsoon. The spectral wave model results indicate that wave climate is the main control of the sediment transport in the study area. In the NE monsoon, sediment from Cua Lo port transported to the south generates the sand bar in the northern bank of the Cua Hoi estuary, while sediment from Cua Hoi cannot be carried to the Cua Lo estuary due to the presence of Hon Ngu Island and Lan Chau headland. As a result, the longshore sediment transport from the Cua Hoi estuary to the Cua Lo estuary is reduced and interrupted. The growth and degradation of the sand bars at the Cua Hoi estuary have a great influence on the stability of the navigation channel to Ben Thuy port as well as flood drainage of Lam River.

scholarly journals ON THE IMPORTANCE OF CONSIDERING MULTIPLE SEASTATE REALIZATIONS WHEN ESTIMATING DESIGN LOADS IN MULTI-DIRECTIONAL SHALLOW-WATER WAVES

2020 ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Andrew Cornett ◽  
Scott Baker
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Offshore Structures ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Offshore Structure ◽  
Wave Condition ◽  
Directional Waves ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Design Loads ◽  
Peak Pressures

The objectives of this work are to close some of the knowledge gaps facing designers tasked with designing new offshore structures or upgrading older structures located in shallow waters and exposed to energetic multi-directional waves generated by passing hurricanes or cyclones. This will be accomplished by first investigating and characterizing the natural variability of the maximum wave heights and crest elevations found in multiple 2-hour long realizations of several short-crested shallow-water near-breaking seastates. Following this, the variability and repeatability of peak pressures and peak loads exerted on a 1/35 scale model of a gravity-based offshore structure are explored. The analysis focuses on establishing extreme value distributions for each realization, quantifying their variability, and exploring how the variability is diminished when results from multiple seastate realizations and repeated tests are combined. The importance of considering multiple realizations of a design wave condition when estimating peak values for use in design is investigated and highlighted.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/16bCsMd0OMc

scholarly journals MACH-REFLECTION AS A DIFFRACTION PROBLEM

1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 45 ◽  
Author(s):  
Udo Berger ◽  
Soren Kohlhase
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Incident Wave ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Gas Dynamics ◽  
Mach Reflection ◽  
Diffraction Problem ◽  
Vertical Wall ◽  
Oblique Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
The Waves

As under oblique wave approach water waves are reflected by a vertical wall, a wave branching effect (stem) develops normal to the reflecting wall. The waves progressing along the wall will steep up. The wave heights increase up to more than twice the incident wave height. The £jtudy has pointed out that this effect, which is usually called MACH-REFLECTION, is not to be taken as an analogy to gas dynamics, but should be interpreted as a diffraction problem.

scholarly journals Automated classification of the atmospheric circulation patterns that drive regional wave climates

2014 ◽  
Vol 2 (2) ◽  
pp. 1127-1151
Author(s):  
J. Pringle ◽  
D. D. Stretch ◽  
A. Bárdossy
Keyword(s):  
Atmospheric Circulation ◽  
Low Pressure ◽  
Wave Climate ◽  
Automated Classification ◽  
Coastal Vulnerability ◽  
Extreme Wave ◽  
Atmospheric Circulation Patterns ◽  
Circulation Patterns ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Objective Classification

Abstract. Wave climates are fundamental drivers of coastal vulnerability and changing trends in wave height, period and direction can severely impact coastlines. In a diverse storm environment, the changes in these parameters are difficult to detect and quantify. Since wave climates are linked to atmospheric circulation patterns an automated and objective classification scheme was developed to explore links between synoptic scale circulation patterns and wave climate variables, specifically wave heights. The algorithm uses a set of objective functions based on wave heights to guide the classification. Fuzzy rules define classification types that are used to detect locally high and low pressure anomalies through a process of simulated annealing. The optimized classification focuses on extreme wave events. The east coast of South Africa was used as a case study. The results show that three dominant patterns drive extreme wave events. The circulation patterns exhibit some seasonality with one pattern present throughout the year. Some 50–80% of the extreme wave events are explained by these three patterns. It is evident that strong low pressure anomalies east of the country drive a wind towards the KwaZulu-Natal coastline which results in extreme wave conditions. We conclude that the methodology can be used to link circulation patterns to wave heights within a diverse storm environment. The circulation patterns agree with qualitative observations of wave climate drivers. There are applications to the assessment of coastal vulnerability and the management of coastlines worldwide.

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