scholarly journals A ‘semio’ approach to fashion discourse: critical perspectives on the luxury industry

2021 ◽  
Vol 06 (02) ◽  
pp. 249-252
Author(s):  
François Provenzano

This book offers rich and clear critical perspectives on the luxury fashion industry and its market mediations. It relies on a multi-layered methodology and deals with a wide variety of materials: texts, images, but also objects, experiences, exhibitions, buildings, interiors. By doing so, Mouratidou demonstrates the unity (in other words: the standard format) of the politics of re-presentation in the luxury fashion industry and the unity of the semio approach she defends. Grounded on the semiotic analysis of discourses (from Greimas to Dondero and Fontanille), this approach includes the numerous insights of the most recent works in Communication studies. The book also offers a fruitful overview of the French tradition of critical works on cultural industries and mediations (from Barthes to Jeanneret); it also sheds light – most appropriately – on this tradition’s Critical Theory background (Benjamin, Adorno & Horkheimer, Debord). In addition, we must also highlight Mouratidou’s terminological creativity. In her case studies, she proposes a range of stimulating theoretical terms, such as re-presentation, semiotic capital, culturalisation, fictivation, event-formula, and others adopted from theatre studies.

Author(s):  
Lucyna Kopciewicz

Social construction of the body and the performative magic: Pierre Bourdieu’s sociological theory in performance studiesPerformance studies are a developing field of social science which draws on the insights of sociology, ethnography, cultural studies, cultural anthropology, theatre studies and communication studies. The object of performance studies is human activity seen as expression which constitutes the process of production and reproduction of subjectivity. In this text the author analyses Pierre Bourdieu’s sociological theory from the perspective of performance studies: of questions about social agency, understood as constructing the subject within a specific field of power. The author focuses particularly on the following aspects of individual and collective practices as described by Pierre Bourdieu: spatial practices, bodily practices, and masculine domination. Społecznie konstruowane ciała i performatywna magia: Teoria socjologiczna Pierre’a Bourdieu w badaniach performatywnychPerformatyka jest rozwijającą się dziedziną badań społecznych, która korzysta z dorobku socjologii, etnografii, studiów kulturowych, antropologii kulturowej, teatrologii, studiów nad komunikowaniem. Przedmiotem badań performatywnych jest aktywność ludzka rozumiana jako ekspresja, która stanowi proces wytwarzania i reprodukowania podmiotowości. W niniejszym tekście autorka analizuje teorię socjologiczną Pierre’a Bourdieu w perspektywie performatyki: pytań o społeczną sprawczość rozumianą jako konstruowanie podmiotu w określonym polu władzy. Szczególnemu namysłowi autorka poddaje następujące aspekty indywidualnych i zbiorowych praktyk opisane przez Pierre’a Bourdieu: praktyki przestrzenne, praktyki cielesne, męska dominacja.


2021 ◽  
pp. 87-108
Author(s):  
Lizzie Stewart

Lizzie Stewart argues here for a step back from more celebratory discussions of the term 'postmigration' as lens and for critical attention to its role as label. She brings critical perspectives on the 'brand value' of postcolonialism, and on »the rationalizing/racializing logic of capital« (Saha 2018) in the cultural industries, into conversation with a detailed discussion of branding and formatting practices at three theatres in Germany: Ballhaus Naunynstraße; Gorki; Schauspiel Cologne. Entanglements of artist activism with production of culture in a capitalist context provide important lessons and models for the developing usage of the term postmigration in the academic sphere.


2019 ◽  
Vol 18 (1-2) ◽  
pp. 153-187 ◽  
Author(s):  
Agnes Khoo-Dzisi

Abstract Movements of people between Africa and Asia have exponentially increased beyond diplomatic exchanges and development aid under neo-liberal globalisation. Similarly, Ghana-Korea encounters have expanded to people-to-people engagement, including sports and entertainment in recent years. This chapter explores new forms of people-to-people exchanges that go beyond ‘Ghana as the football nation’ and ‘Korea as the Samsung Republic’. The focus is to explore innovative ways of bridging cultures and transcending boundaries. This paper relies on primary data (participation observation, interviews) and secondary data (published academic, government and ephemeral material) to highlight new areas of collaboration, ranging from commerce and investment, academic exchanges, collaboration in art and cultural endeavours, and the merging of these areas in a mutually beneficial way. Korea can learn from Ghana’s cultural diversity and tolerance; Ghana can benefit from Korea’s success in turning its art and cultural industries into an important export. In considering new forms of Ghanaian-Korean cooperation that transcends the traditional paradigm, starting from the grassroots, critical perspectives and approaches are examined for building a sustainable partnership based on mutual respect and understanding.


Author(s):  
Iryna Kushchyk

The purpose of the article is the formation of a base for fashion research in Ukrainian culturological science. Carrying out a culturological analysis of gender transformations in the evolution of fashion and fashion trends. The methodology of the research is due to the need of using specific culturological methods for the analysis – diachronic and synchronous methods, comparative-historical method, semiotic method. The scientific novelty of the article includes conducting a cultural analysis of the phenomenon of fashion and gender; conducting a semiotic analysis of the fashion industry; identifying the features of the functioning of fashion in the context of the symbolic space of culture. Conclusions. In postmodernism, fashion begins its transformation from a symbolic unit that provides information about certain means to the means of communication that help people realize their own human potential, encourage freedom of choice, self-identification, and self-expression, which is reflected in the gradual leveling of gender and other sociocultural clothes. Modern fashion is beginning to blur the boundaries between social status, gender and age. After all, the transformational processes taking place in society are directly related to the transformation of culture and changes in fashion, because fashion is one of the structural elements of culture.


2015 ◽  
Vol 43 (10/11) ◽  
pp. 1083-1100 ◽  
Author(s):  
RayeCarol Cavender ◽  
Doris H. Kincade

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to develop a luxury brand management (LBM) framework that accounts for the changing luxury environment (i.e. heterogeneous consumer populations, operations within markets of varying maturity, need for seamless customer experiences, and Omni-channel retailing). Framework set within this new luxury business environment and environmental phenomena unique to the fashion industry (i.e. fashion adoption, zeitgeist). Design/methodology/approach – Case study of leading luxury conglomerate, Louis Vuitton Möet Hennessy (LVMH), combined with in-depth historical review of luxury industry. Primary and secondary data sources yielded thick descriptions of brands in LVMH portfolio and larger luxury industry, in which conglomerate is the predominant organizational structure. Content analysis of data-tracked relationships and emergent patterns. Recontextualization techniques were employed to identify key dimensions of brand management operations for sample company and further explicated indicators, sub-variables, and measurements. Macro and micro dimensions were combined for the final framework. Findings – Findings revealed a LBM framework with specific dimensions at the micro or company level that are combined with variables and indicators in the macro-business environment. Strategic management response was also identified as a tool companies can use to synthesize brand management strategies throughout company and remain adaptive to environment. Originality/value – Contributes to company-based luxury research. Holistic findings; framework was constructed from the micro-company level within a macro-environmental context, increasing its relevancy for firms. Potential to be employed in strategic brand management decisions of luxury companies, regardless of their corporate structure, size, or age.


2014 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 7
Author(s):  
Irina Ivanovna Skorobogatykh ◽  
Olga Saginova ◽  
Zhanna Musatova

With globalization and increased mobility consumers can easily access the same brand in different markets, interpreting the meaning and the social statuses they represent. That is why maintaining brand consistency across countries should be of great importance for companies’ brand management and marketing strategies, especially in the luxury industry where profitability and long-term success rely on consumers’ perceptions of luxury brands. This paper examines brand image consistency of luxury brands in the fashion industry, through an exploratory study of consumers’ perception of the Burberry brand in the UK and Russia.


2020 ◽  
pp. 147035721989681
Author(s):  
Arlene Archer ◽  
Gustav Westberg

This article investigates a semiotic phenomenon within the global fashion industry: the branding of designer jeans as ‘authentic’ and ‘genuinely local’, focusing on the Swedish brand Sarva. Drawing on a social semiotics approach, the authors see authenticity as a discursive construct and look at the ways in which Sarva authenticate their jeans as Sámi in multimodal texts. The aim is: (1) to reveal how places and narratives are commodified in texts that accompany the jeans; and (2) to explore how authenticity is materially instantiated in the jeans by using different resources. The article focuses on the connotative provenance and affordances of different semiotic materials for the rendering of authenticity. The analysis of the jeans as semiotic entities reveals how the thickness of the garment, texture and leather details, and the choice of materials, languages as well as iconography, evoke ideas about historical and local ‘Sáminess’, whilst at the same time indexing a global ideology that regiments what quality jeans are. The analysis shows how authenticity can be reinvented and relocated in ways that allow a commodity to travel between the local and the global. It also shows how this movement is not neutral or straightforward, but rooted in power relations that underlie globalization and advanced capitalism.


2016 ◽  
Vol 41 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Natalie Coulter

Canadian communication studies have largely ignored Canadian children’s media as a field of study. The children’s cultural industries in Canada are rich and diverse. This article argues that these cultural industries need to be constitutively integrated into scholarship on the Canadian mediascape, as does the presence of young people as active participants in Canadian media culture. Focusing primarily on English-language television to illustrate this point, the article first outlines the long history of children’s media production in Canada, then discusses reasons why such scholarship is missing from the field, and concludes by outlining the impacts of this oversight.Les études en communication canadiennes ont généralement négligé la recherche sur les médias canadiens pour les enfants. Pourtant, les industries culturelles pour enfants au Canada sont riches et diverses. Cet article soutient que la recherche sur les médias canadiens devrait tenir compte de ces industries culturelles ainsi que de la présence de jeunes en tant que participants actifs à la culture médiatique canadienne. Portant principalement sur la télévision anglophone pour illustrer cette nécessité, l’article passe d’abord en revue la longue histoire de la production médiatique pour enfants au Canada, soulève ensuite des raisons pour lesquelles la recherche sur ces productions a été lacunaire et se conclut en présentant les conséquences de ces lacunes.


2019 ◽  
Vol 31 (1) ◽  
pp. 38-57
Author(s):  
Martynas Petrikas

Pierre Bourdieu’s concepts of field sociology began their life in humanities, particularly in literature and art studies after publication of his seminal Les règles de l’art: genèse et structure du champ littéraire in 1992. Regretfully, Bourdieu has not left a study dedicated to theatre, possibly due to the long-standing French tradition of considering theatre as another literary genre. Nevertheless, Bourdieusian sociology is abundant with terms, concepts, and ideas that are extremely handy in analyzing and understanding how theatre was produced in the past and is produced in the present. The appropriation of Bourdieu’s ideas for theatre studies is a tempting effort, especially considering how closely theatre is intertwined with the phenomena of habitus, distinction, and all the forms of capital described by Bourdieu himself. The aim of my article is to discuss the applicability of selected Bourdieusian notions and concepts for research of a very specific aspect of theatre studies. I argue that the concepts of field (champs), nomos, doxa, illusio as well as of symbolic violence are very useful in understanding the nature, functions, and effects of theatre criticism. Dwelling on my own theoretical research, I propose to understand theatre criticism as another field of social practice that is definedby the conflict between the opposing interests of t


Author(s):  
Anirban Ray

The essay provides a comprehensive overview of digital literacy, looking at the theoretical and ideological construct of the term from functional and critical perspectives. Digital literacy as a heterogeneous concept, its scope and application is claimed by diverse stakeholder disciplines such as education, communication studies, English, media studies, library information studies and computing. The essay underlines the complementary notions of digital literacy couched in both “conceptual” as well as “standardized operational” definitions (Lankshear & Knobel 2008) and sheds light on the shifting implications of global digital literacy. From this perspective, it scans the global landscape to understand the diffusion of digital literacy and to show how the concept is tackled within a disparate contexts of use. The essay also highlights contemporary issues associated with the spread of digital literacy, including challenges of cross-cultural digital literacy and digital divide.


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