Encapsulated Activated Grape Seed Extract: A Novel Formulation with Anti-Aging, Skin-Brightening, and Hydration Properties

Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in oxidative stress signaling. A novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids, was recently developed and demonstrated to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. AGSE is a purple-colored powder, with limited solubility restricting its use in a broad range of formulations. Our aim was to develop a formulation that reduced the color and increased the solubility of AGSE, allowing its skin-health-enhancing properties to be utilized in a wider array of products, and to test it clinically. Encapsulation was performed utilizing a liposome and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, (HPCD)-based approach to produce Encapsulated AGSE (E-AGSE). Human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were used to determine expression levels of aging and dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) markers. EpiDerm™ was UVB-irradiated to measure the effects against cytokine release, DNA damage, apoptosis, and skin barrier. Human melanocytes were used to determine melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase was used for inhibitory activity. A 4-week, 31-subject sensitive-skin clinical was performed with 2% E-AGSE Essence to assess its activity on human skin. We demonstrated that E-AGSE inhibits PP2A demethylation, increases key anti-aging (collagen I, III, elastin) and DEJ markers, protects against UVB-induced DNA damage, reduces inflammation, and promotes filaggrin in vitro. Moreover, E-AGSE reduces melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition. Clinical assessment of E-AGSE showed that it reduces the appearance of wrinkles, brightens the skin, and boosts hydration. E-AGSE is a novel grape seed extract formulation enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids that is clinically effective in sensitive skin, providing several benefits.

Expert consensus statement on diagnosis and management of sensitive skin in current clinical practice

<p class="abstract">Sensitive skin is a very commonly seen entity in current dermatological practice that has a significant impact on quality of life. The pathophysiology, classification, diagnosis, and treatment of sensitive skin have evolved over the years, with new studies trying to bring about new robust evidence about the same. The current consensus aims at providing a comprehensive overview on evidence and experience-based approaches for sensitive skin. A total of 35 experts in the field of clinical dermatology participated in expert group meetings organized via teleconference webinar. Current evidence elaborating various aspects like classification, diagnosis, and management of sensitive skin along with clinical experience of experts were discussed in detail. The prerequisites for selecting suitable products, importance of cosmeceuticals as adjunctive therapy and the need for avoiding triggering factors in individuals with sensitive skin as well as associated dermatological disorders were also described. In addition to medical history, physical examination and routine investigations, a draft checklist and its clinical relevance in accurately diagnosing sensitive skin were emphasized upon by the experts. The overall management encompasses avoidance of individual trigger factors, thorough topical therapy using mild, non-irritating ingredients along with adjunctive therapies like moisturizers, sunscreens, and cleansers. The “two-week” strategy was described to be a useful approach for treating sensitive skin. This review article provides a consensus clinical viewpoint of expert dermatologists for effective evaluation, differential diagnosis and appropriate pharmacological as well as non-pharmacological management of sensitive skin in Indian subjects.</p>

THE SKIN BARRIER IN SENSITIVE SKIN SYNDROME

Background: Sensitive Skin Syndrome (SSS) is predominantly a self-defined condition without objective pathological findings. The syndrome presents with sudden and easily provoked flushes accompanied by unpleasant sensations like itching, pain or numbness in response to stimuli that usually do not cause such sensations. The intact skin is a barrier to uncontrolled water loss, plasma components and proteins from the organism. It is therefore assumed that one of the possible explanations of itching and other unpleasant sensations in SSS should be resulting in a dysfunctional skin barrier. Purpose: was to establish is there a dysfunction of the skin barrier in SSS patients. Objective and Methods: The presented study includes 64 females self-diagnosed with SSS and 45 females self-diagnosed with NSS (non-sensitive skin). Demographic data were collected from registers of Medico-Aesthetic Center “Medea” Varna from April 2017 till April 2019. Trans epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and Hydration (H) of the epidermis in three different areas of the body were measured as an indicator of normal skin barrier functioning. Results: No significant differences in skin barrier indicators in SS compare to NSS were found. No visible pathological changes were found in patients according to the duration of SSS. A slight correlation between abnormal levels of TEWL and H and the severity of disease was obtained. Conclusion: All the reported and analyzed results indicate that disorders of the skin barrier are slightly connected with the severity and duration of SSS. This could be one of the explanations why adding topical treatment worsen rather than improve SSS. This is the first study in our country, which aims to measure the impact of changes in skin barrier on clinical characteristics of SSS.

Study of the protective effects of cosmetic ingredients on the skin barrier, based on the expression of barrier-related genes and cytokines

Background Sensitive skin is the result of a complex process that is closely linked to the damage of the skin barrier. There are no recognized methods for evaluating the efficacy of anti-allergy products. Methods In this study, a model of skin barrier damage was created by treating HaCaT cells with 60 μg/ml of sodium dodecyl sulfate for 48 h. The protective effects of nine cosmetic ingredients, including oat extract (S1), on the skin barrier were investigated based on the gene expression levels of aquaporin3 (AQP3), filaggrin (FLG), caspase-14 (CASP14), and human tissue kallikrein7 (KLK7), as well as those of various interleukins (IL) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). Results Among the nine ingredients, S1 had a good protective effect on the function of the skin barrier. It promoted the expression of AQP3, FLG, and CASP14, while inhibiting the expression of KLK7 in HaCaT cells, at a concentration of 0.06%. It also maintained IL-6, IL-8, and VEGF at appropriate levels while promoting the proliferation and differentiation of HaCaT cells. Conclusions The above indicators allow for the preliminary establishment of a method to evaluate the efficacy of the barrier protection ability of sensitive skin.

Use of topical reparative creams for sensitive and atopic skin in children

In recent decades, there has been a significant increase in allergy pathology among the pediatric population. One in five children at a pediatrician’s consultation has an allergic disease or has a history of allergy, or manifestations of an atopic constitution. Also, in recent years, the term «sensitive skin» has become increasingly common in the medical literature. It is an independent syndrome that manifests itself in two forms: objective, in which the syndrome clinic is observed in parallel with the skin disease, and subjective when the manifestations of the syndrome occur in healthy skin. The main manifestations of sensitive skin syndrome are burning, itching, and tingling sensations, as well as thickening and dryness of the skin in response to environmental factors. Often, sensitive skin is associated with the most common skin pathology of childhood - atopic dermatitis. This association obliges the use of combined external therapy in practice. Topical glucocorticosteroids in the form of monotherapy or combination with antibacterial and/or antifungal agents are designed to control the dynamics of inflammation and lead to the achievement and prolongation of remission. However, the combination of anti-inflammatory agents with reparative creams is more effective because it enhances the healing processes of the damaged skin.The article describes clinical cases of skin treatment in children with a history of allergies, atopic dermatitis, and sensitive skin syndrome. The therapy used restorative agents of dermocosmetics in the example of reparative cream. Clinical examples showed high efficacy of the combination of topical anti-inflammatory agents and reparative cream. This combination led to a more rapid reduction of dryness and itching, the intensity of inflammation, contributed to the rapid recovery of damaged skin, increased adherence to treatment by patients and patient’s parents.

Characterization of Cowhage-induced Pruritus in Sensitive Skin: An Observational Laboratory Study

Sensitive skin is a prevalent syndrome, characterized by discomfort in response to mild stimuli, which impacts life quality. Its pathomechanism remains insufficiently understood. Pruritus is one of the major symptoms. As one of the experimental models for pruritus, the cowhage skin prick test might provide an insight to the understanding of sensitive skin. This study aimed to specify the characteristics of cowhage-induced pruritus in sensitive skin. 20 female sensitive skin volunteers and 20 controls were recruited. Self-report questionnaires were distributed and their responses evaluated; moreover, alongside assessments by dermatologists, skin physiology assessments, lactic acid sting test, capsaicin test and cowhage skin challenge were performed. This study showed that pruritus in sensitive skin is perceived as more intense and longer-lasting, with different qualities of accompanying sensations than in normal skin. Test results of cowhage skin challenge showed moderate consistency with clinical assessments. The results suggest that cowhage skin challenge could be a new tool for sensitive skin assessment.

Burden of Sensitive Skin Questionnaire and Current Perception Threshold: Use as Diagnostic Tools for Sensitive Skin Syndrome

The assessment of sensitive skin syndrome, characterized by subjective unpleasant sensations, remains a challenge, since there is no international consensus on the best diagnostic tools. This study evaluated the combination of the Burden of Sensitive Skin (BoSS) questionnaire and the current perception threshold as diagnostic tools for sensitive skin syndrome, and the relationship between BoSS and the subjects’ smoking status, phototype and skin type. A total of 100 women completed the BoSS questionnaire, and current perception threshold was measured on the face. The BoSS score was significantly higher in the self-reported sensitive skin group compared with the non-sensitive skin group (25.61 vs 14.05; p < 0.001), and in non-smokers vs smokers (23.00 vs 18.37; p < 0.05). In addition, the current perception threshold values were similar between the sensitive and non-sensitive groups. These results suggest that BoSS is a better diagnostic tool for sensitive skin syndrome than the current perception threshold, and that smokers less frequently have sensitive skin than do non-smokers.

Sensitive skin and its management

Sensitive skin is a self-diagnosed condition and is usually not accompanied by any obvious physical signs of irritation. Patients with this syndrome usually have unpleasant sensations whenever exposed to any physical, thermal or chemical stimuli that normally cause no provocation on healthy skin. Cosmetics, skin barrier impairment, and climate changes are the main contributing factors for skin hyperactivity. Although diagnosis is challenging due to lack of any specific or preferred diagnostic methods and interventions, recent studies on different clinical aspects of sensitive skin have provided new approaches to the diagnosis, management and interventions targeting the pathophysiology and treatment of sensitive skin syndrome. In general, patients with sensitive skin need an individual approach, keeping in view the various biomedical, neural, and psychosocial factors affecting sensitive skin.