ІННОВАЦІЙНІ ТЕХНОЛОГІЇ МОДУЛЬНОГО ПРОЄКТУВАННЯ КОНСТРУКТИВНО- УНІФІКОВАНИХ РЯДІВ СТАБІЛЬНОГО АСОРТИМЕНТУ

The Objective of this research is to identify the logistics of the coordination of the modular design processes of constructively-unifi ed rows of competitive garments. The methodology of the modern researches is a combination of analytical methods used in situational modeling of within the sets of models of stable assortment. The nomenclature of structural modules is determined by the method of generating the structural elements of the design of men's jacket design. The method of combinatorial synthesis of composite elements determines the route of modifi cation techniques in the process of developing a design documentation. Results. As a result of research of logistic coordination of sequence of cyclist of working out of a constructively-unifi ed number of models expediency of modifi cation of par ameters of a constructive prototype is revealed. The key areas of innovative technology of a modular design of a stable range are identifi ed as follows:- the objectivity of the assessment of the functionality of the product (the competitiveness of the range increases);- drawing attention to the gradation of structural states of the design object (the algorithm of design solutions is simplifi ed);- unifi cation of structural elements of constructive modifi cation (expands the possibilities of smart technologies by the search function «yes-no»);- coordination of synergetic connections in the game space of the morphological structure of the object (provides minimization of information arrays in updating the models of the industrial collection);- operational planning of stages of design and technological preparation of production (determines the vector of the models selection of an industrial series for start in technological process).Practical value. The obtained results are recommended for the implementation in the production and marketing activities of enterprises in order to increase the effi cie ncy of project documentation and, as a result, improve the competitiveness of products. Provided expansion of smart technologies in business, the logistics of accelerating the design and technological preparation of production has high prospects in application.

ЕКСПЛУАТАЦІЙНІ ВЛАСТИВОСТІ ГОТЕЛЬНИХ МАХРОВИХ РУШНИКІВ

Assessment of the providing level of hotel facilities by quality terry towels based on a comprehensive study of the operational properties of terry textile fabrics. Methodology. Theoretical and experimental researches are based on the basic principles of textile materials science. During experimental studies, modern methods were used to determine the physical and mechanical properties of textile materials, as well as methods of mathematical planning and statistical processing of the experimental results. Results. The state and norms for the provision of hotel facilities in Ukraine with terry towels are given. The assortment of hotel terry towels has been analyzed. The main factors of the formation of a modern assortment of textile materials for hotel terry towels are considered. The focus is on the classic range of double nap terry fabrics for hotel towels. The analyses of the physical and mechanical properties of modern fabrics for hotel towels are present. Indicators characterizing the interaction of textile with liquid moisture have been experimentally determined. The paper presents the results of determining the wear resistance of fabrics after 1, 5 and 10 cycles "wash-ironing". Scientifi c novelty. The data of the physical and mechanical properties of the classic assortment of textile materials for hotel terry towels are systematized. It has been experimentally proven that the assortment of cotton terry textile materials, which is currently available on the Ukrainian market and is used for the manufacture of hotel terry towels, provides a high level of comfort and durability of towels. Practical value. The modern assortment of textile materials for hotel terry towels is analyzed, taking into account the peculiarities of the operational situation of consumption.

РОЗРОБКА ТРИКОТАЖНИХ ПОЛОТЕН ДЛЯ ВИГОТОВЛЕННЯ ФУНЦІОНАЛЬНОЇ НИЖНЬОЇ БІЛИЗНИ ВІЙСЬКОВОСЛУЖБОВЦІВ

Development of functional knitted fabrics to improve the properties of underwear for military serviceen. The work applies methods of analysis and synthesis of scientifi c and technical literature in the fi eld of manufacturing of functional knitted fabrics for underwear. Standardized methods for studying the parameters of the structure, changes in linear dimensions after washing, relaxation characteristics, capillarity, and breathability of textile materials (in particular knitwear) were used. The analysis of the market of innovative types of raw materials used in the production of knitted underwear is carried out. The choice of materials for the manufacture of knitted underwear is provided in accordance with the requirements for the underwear of military personnel. To ensure the function of removing vaporous moisture from the underwear space, to provide antibacterial action and a high degree of deodorization yarn containing "DEO-W" fi bers were used. The innovation of these fi bers consists in the neutralization of all types of human body odor an d preservation of the specifi ed functional properties for up to 10 days of continuous wearing of underwear and the process of 50 washings of fabrics made of them. Within the framework of the Educational Investment and Technological Cluster of Light Industry (which includes KNUTD and LLC "RA.DA"), a plain knitted fabric was produced at PJSC Knitting Factory "ROSA" on the basis of yarn containing "DEO-W"fi bers with the use of a single jersey circular knitting machine (28 Gauge). Scientifi c novelty. The consumer characteristics of the developed samples of knitted underwear have been studied, namely: the change in linear dimensions after washing, deformation characteristics, capillarity and breathability. The infl uence of the elastomeric thread upon physical and mechanical characteristics of the knitwear has been proved. Practical value. The developed knitwear samples are recommended to be used in the process of manufacturing of functional underwear for the military personnel. The use of above-mentioned types of knitted fabrics will help to optimize the microclimate of the body, moisture exchange, rapid drying of the skin during the operation of underwear and, in general, increase the quality level of clothing.

ОСОБЛИВОСТІ ВИГОТОВЛЕННЯ ПОЯСУ СУКНІ ЖІНОЧОЇ З ПРОГРАМОВАНИМ LED ПРИСТРОЄМ

Development of the technology needed for making women’s dresses with a programmed LED device. Methodology. The used methodology of developing a women’s dress belt with a feature of using a programmed LED device. Results. The technological progress and evolution of innovative technologies have a signifi cant impact on the production of modern clothing. This tendency is seen in the expansion of clothing features with the usage of light eff ects. As of today, manufacturers are proposing diff erent textile materials that have fi ber optics in their structure or use LED stripes and tubes for ornamenting their products. Sewing products that are made of fi ber optic materials require specialized personnel with knowledge of LED systems principals of work because, in the event of failure of such system in the product, it must be eliminated with an urgency. Based on the said study it is proposed to use an LED device that is constructed with the following components: an LED stripe 50cm long 1cm wide, batteries, a board with a microcontroller and capacitor WS2812B RGB, voltage converter, and connectors. Using this in a product will allow it to get the light eff ects by programming a corresponding microcontroller program. With an example of a dress belt, certain studies were made that had shown that the light eff ect is working the best on white or cream-colored clothes. Using such a device brings in the advantage of the ability to repeatedly remove and place it back in the dress’ belt, which will be convenient for the consumer when taking care of the clothing and when servicing the device itself. Scientifi c novelty. For the fi rst time the principle of obtaining light eff ects of garments based to use of a programmable LED device was developed. Practical importance. The technology of manufacturing a women’s dress belt with light eff ects has been proposed, which allowed the placement of a programmed LED device with the elements connected in a certain sequence. Women’s dress with a belt made by this technology can be used for stage performances, photoshoots, and short-term events. Recommendations for the care for such a product have been developed.

АНАЛІЗ АЛГОРИТМІВ ПОБУДОВИ НАГРУДНОЇ ВИТОЧКИ В ЖІНОЧОМУ ПЛЕЧОВОМУ ОДЯЗІ

Development of algorithms for designing a bust prominence dart in the construction base (СВ) of the top garments through the construction methodologies using the Julivi CAD means. Methodology: usage of the possibilities provided by the CAD program “Design-development of the basic constructions” by Julivi to prepare basic constructions of the women’s top garments through designing of the separate node using the visual programming method following diff erent construction methodologies. Peculiarities of bust prominence dart design for the construction basis in the women’s top garment using the module “Design-development of basic constructions” by CAD Julivi were studied. Algorithms of bust prominence dart design following diff erent design methodologies for CB of the women’s top garment in CAD Julivi program were provided. Sequence of bust prominence dart design (in accordance with two construction methodologies) using the instruments of visual programming is presented in the form of a table and the description of the construction element building procedure recorded by the CAD Julivi was also provided. Parametric reproduction of the panel front was performed to defi ne the construction quality of the separate element in the basic construction and the quality of schematic drawing areas matching for diff erent construction methodologies was illustrated. Algorithms for more reasonable node building using the instruments from the module “Design-development of basic constructions” by CAD Julivi were off ered.Scientifi c novelty: Created algorithm for reasonable execution of the separate construction mode in the women’s top garment using the CAD program instruments. Process sequence of the bust prominence dart design following diff erent methodologies and using software instruments was analyzed. The practical signifi cance: developed methodological provisioning for the usage of the “Design-development of basic constructions” module by CAD Julivi within the design of the construction sequence for the separate elements of the basic constructions of the women’s top garment and off ered algorithm s for bust prominence dart design using CAD without the processes of the further shoulder cut matching.

РОЗРОБКА КОНСТРУКЦІЇ ТА ТЕХНОЛОГІЇ ВИГОТОВЛЕННЯ АДАПТИВНИХ ШКАРПЕТОК ДЛЯ ЛЮДЕЙ З ВАДАМИ ГОМІЛКОСТОПУ

Development of functional socks for people with special needs who have diseases associated with ankle defects, including patients with diabetes.Methodology. The analytical method of reviewing scientifi c, technical, and patent documentation in the fi eld of research is used in the work. An experimental method for determining the elongation on a tensile tester WDW-05M, unfolding method. Analysis of problems associated with the elimination of excess pressure of the sock on the foot in people with increased measurements of the feet and ankles due to gunshot wounds, injuries or chronic diseases, including varicose veins, diabetes, edema, tumors, etc. confi rms the need to deve lop a new range of functional sock products. In the course of the research, the properties of weft-knitted structures were analyzed and a scientifi cally substantiated design of adaptive socks for home use was proposed. The design includes at least two sections, the elastic properties of which diff er. The back side of the leg, heel, sole, and toe are made of 1x1 rib knit, the instep and the front part of the leg are made of 3x3 rib knit. The section with higher stretchability and elasticity, made of 3x3 rib knit, softly maintains the shape of the socks’ leg, practically without creating pressure on the ankle and allowing to signifi cantly increase the perimeter of the sock in the area of the foot, toes, and/or heel. A sam ple of adaptive socks made of PAN yarn 32x2 tex х4 by knitting according to the shape of the unfolding of its 3D surface was made on the fl at knitting machine PVRK of the 8-th gauge. The connection of the product's parts in order to give the product a three-dimensional shape is made on a linker machine Hague D280E.Practical value. The design and technology of manufacturing functional socks have been developed. It is proposed to use industrial and semi-industrial double-bed fl at-knitting machines as technologic al equipment for their production. The use of various rib knit patterns for diff erent functional zones o f a sock allows providing the set value of conditional tension of threads when using the sock on a foot of atypical measurements.

РОЗРОБКА ЖІНОЧИХ ПАНЧІХ З ЖАКАРДОВИМ ВІЗЕРУНКОМ

Development of a model of warm and stylish women's stockings with a jacquard pattern, suitable for mass production. Methodology. To achieve this goal, a review of patent and technical іnformation on the manufacture of hosiery with jacquard patterns was realized. Autodesk AutoCAD software is used to increase the effi ciency of product design. Findings. The study developed a collection of women's stockings with animal ornaments and patterns for making the same. A pattern simulating the color of a zebra's fur was chosen for experimental production.A two-color double bed jacquard stockings collection is designed. The production of this knit does not involve the knitting density changes. Correspondence of the stocking surface geometry to the measurements of a person’s leg can be provided by increasing or decreasing working needles. The latter cannot be realized on specialized circular knitting equipment for hosiery production. The models of the collection can be made on fl at knitting machines accord ing to the patterns. An experimental model is made of half-woolen yarn on a semi-industrial fl at knitting machine Brother KH-965i. The linker Hague D280E has been used for the stocking’s parts sewing. A parametric pattern of the unfolded product in Autodesk AutoCAD has been created. To adjust the pattern to the desired size, a customer has to enter the measurements and the boundary will be redrawn automatically. An application in the Autolisp programming language has been developed to automatically calculate the knitting program (increase and decrease the number of working needles). Entering course and wale spacing values of the sample structure in the program allows the automatically calculating the required number of working needles in each part of the product.Practical value. The technology of making women’s hosiery with design patterns on the basis of double jacquard knits on fl at-bed knitting machines has been develope d. Such products can be made both on modern fl at knitting machines with computer control, such as, for example, automated equipment of the Stoll or Shima Seiki brands and on semi-industrial knitting machines, such as Brother, Selver Red and others.

ТЕРМІЧНИЙ ОПІР ХУТРЯНОГО ОДЯГУ

Improving the process of forecasting thermal protection of clothing by expanding the information base of thermophysical indicators of fur, namely its thermal resistance. Methodology. To achieve this goal, an experimental method has been applied to study the thermal resistance of clothes by indirectly measuring and simulating heat transfer of the human body with the environment at various temperatures without using a climate chamber.Results. The paper analyzes the existing information base for the thermophysical parameters of the fur of diff erent animals, as a result of which it was found that the available information is not suffi cient to predict the thermal protection of clothing. The subject of the study was selected fur animals that are in greatest demand among consumers in Ukraine. Experimental studies of the thermal conductivity of fur vests were carried out as a result of which their thermal resistance was determined. It has been established experimentally that the thermal resistance of the fur of a long-haired rabbit is 0,1 °C m 2 /W more than that of a red fox. As a result of experimental studies, it was found that the total thermal resistance of red fox fur and long-haired rabbit is in the range of 0,471 to 0,559 °C m 2 / W. For the fi rst time, the thermal resistance of vests made of long-haired rabbit and red fox fur was determined taking into account the anatomical reliefs of the human torso. The existing methodology for determining the thermal resistance of garments on the simulated thermal stand of a human torso (ITSHB) to determine the thermal resistance of fur products has been adapted. Practical signifi cance. Extension of information support for the process of forecasting the heat-shielding properties of fur clothing. Reducing material costs for researching the thermal resistance of fur products.

DEVELOPMENT OF A BOOT-TREE MOLD FOR MANUFACTURING RIDING BOOTS

The production of such footwear as riding boots requires additional equipment like a special mold for the formation of bootlegs, which are made using intermediate frame parts to ensure rigidity and preserving shape. The special mold of riding boots is a stylized shape of the leg from its foot to knee. The lower part corresponding to the shoe last is designed based on the parameters of the average foot, taking into account the requirements of biomechanics, physiology, and aesthetic features of the shoe style. The upper part repeats the parameters of the shin and has a specifi c asymmetrical shape, which ensures a stylish and perfect form of the riding boot. To obtain the initial data for designing the mold, there were performed anthropometric measurements of the shins of young women whose feet sizes correspond to the average ones in the selected sample. Designing of the lower part of the mold was carried out on the basis of the average parameters of the foot in Crispin LastMaker software complex using the method of reverse engineering. Designing of the general shape was performed in the PowerShape software environment by means of the features of surface, solid, and hybrid modeling. This type of boots must be made with several width-girth parameters, and the possibility to make boots with diff erent designs must be provided. Therefore, in order to e ff ectively use the molding means (a boot-tree), in the work, there was proposed the transforming mold, which allows making boots of diff erent widths and with diff erent shapes of the toe part due to its struc ture consisting of four parts changing the relative position and individual elements due to which it is possible to achieve multipurpose usage. Objective. Development of an improved shape, design, and method of designing a boot-tree molding means based on the foot 3d scan and shin measurements using the features of modern CAD software.Topicality of the work is based on the need to equip footwear production with the advanced lasts and molding means taking into account the requirements of ergonomics and fashionable design. Novelty. The proposed structure of the boot-tree developed on the basis of foot measurements is designed using a combination of reverse and direct modeling of the shape, which allows achieving the ideal and unique 3D shape combining ergonomic features and beautiful design. Such design method allows using the available digital equipment to obtain the initial data.

АНАЛІЗ ЗАСТОСУВАННЯ ПЛАЗМОВИХ ТЕХНОЛОГІЙ В ТЕКСТИЛЬНІЙ ТА ЛЕГКІЙ ПРОМИСЛОВОСТІ

Analysis and determination of the most promising and economical plasma technologies for processing polymeric textile materials to obtain materials with specifi ed properties. Methodology. The article uses analytical methods for the study of diff erent types of plasma treatment of polymeric textile materials and their impact on the properties and structure of these materials. Results. Diff erent types of plasma treatment of polymeric textile materials are analyzed. Of the physical methods of modifi cation, the most promising are plasma technologies that can reduce environmental pollution. Thermal plasma has extremely high temperatures and cannot be used to modify and treat the surface of PTM fi bers. The choice of a certain type of cold plasma for the treatment of PTM depen ds on the speed of their processing, the sample size and the degree of the proposed modifi cation. The infl uence of diff erent types of plasma treatment of polymeric textile materials on the change of their structure and properties, as well as the causes and features of such changes are determined. Practical value. The application of plasma technologies in the textile and light industry allows to replace the technological operations of processing polymeric textile materials that require high consumption of water and chemical reagents, for the processes of their dry processing. This reduces the consumption of chemical materials and reduces energy costs. Installation and maintenance of atmospheric pressure equipment is much simpler and cheaper than low pressure plasma equipment