The mean forces exerted by waves on floating or submerged bodies with applications to sand bars and wave power machines

1977 ◽  
Vol 352 (1671) ◽  
pp. 463-480 ◽  
Keyword(s):  
Water Waves ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
The Body ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Sand Bars ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Horizontal Momentum ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Energy And Momentum

Water waves transport both energy and momentum, and any solid body which absorbs or reflects wave energy must absorb or reflect horizontal momentum also. Hence the body is subject to a mean horizontal force. In low waves, the force may be calculated immediately when the incident, reflected and transmitted wave amplitudes are known. For wave power devices the mean force can be large, so that anchoring presents practical problems. Experiments with models of the Cockerell wave-raft and the Salter ‘duck’ accurately confirm the predicted magnitude of the force at low wave amplitudes. For steeper waves, however, the magnitude of the force can be less than that given by linear theory. By experiments with submerged cylinders, it is shown that this is due partly to the presence of a free second harmonic on the down-wave side. In breaking waves, it is confirmed that the mean force on submerged bodies is sometimes reduced, and even reversed. An explanation is suggested in terms of the ‘wave set-up’ produced by breaking waves. Submerged cylinders act as a kind of double beach. A negative mean force arises from an asymmetry in the breaking waves, associated with a time-delay in the response to the change in depth. Similar arguments apply to submerged reefs and sand bars. Experiments with a model bar show that long low waves propel the bar towards the shore, whereas steep, breaking waves propel it seawards. This is similar to the observed behaviour of off-shore sand bars. The existence of a horizontal momentum flux (or radiation stress) in water waves is demonstrated by using it to propel a small craft.

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS OF A NUMERICAL SHALLOW WATER WAVES MODEL

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 54
Author(s):  
A. Hauguel ◽  
Ph. Pechon
Keyword(s):  
Numerical Model ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Scale Model ◽  
Dimensional Model ◽  
Longshore Current ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Storm Waves ◽  
Mean Sea Surface ◽  
The Mean

This paper relates three applications of a numerical model of storm waves in shallow waters developed in LNH. The equations are recalled at first and then the applications performed are presented. The numerical model has been used in the case of the port of Fecamp, on the English Channel coast, on which the results of a scale model were available. The computed results compare well with the scale model measurements. The second case is the s imulation of a t sumami induced by a submarine landslide which appeared in 1979 near Nice ; the mode 1 has permitted the simulation of the rising of the wave. The last applications consisted in simulating breaking waves by introducing a dispersion term in the equations. This simulation has been tested with a one-dimensional model at first. The results show that the numerical model reproduces the elevation of the mean sea surface due to the loss of energy in breakings. Then the longshore current induced by breaking waves coming obliquely over a rectilinear sloping shore has been reproduced with a two dimensional model. The results show that the model is able to compute with a good accuracy re fraction, diffraction and reflection, and that it appears to be very interesting for longshore currents simulation.

Pattern of Hypothyroidism with Liver Cirrhosis among Indian population

2015 ◽  
Vol 4 (5) ◽  
pp. 247-251
Author(s):  
Ekta Chitkara ◽  
Abdikarem Abdulahi ◽  
Anania Arjuna
Keyword(s):  
Liver Disease ◽  
Inorganic Ions ◽  
Vital Role ◽  
The Body ◽  
Chronic Liver ◽  
P Value ◽  
Nonalcoholic Fatty Liver ◽  
Significant Difference ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Set Up

  The thyroid plays a vital role in the overall body function during all stages of life. Although relatively small, it produces hormones that regulate the body’s overall metabolism ,the rate at which the body produces energy from nutri-ents. Thyroid hormones influence growth and development, oxygen con-sumption and heat production, nerve function and metabolism of lipids , carbohydrates ,proteins, nucleic acids ,vitamins and inorganic ions. Cirrhosis and chronic liver failure are leading causes of morbidity and mortality in the whole the world-with the majority of preventable cases attributed to exces-sive alcohol consumption, viral hepatitis or nonalcoholic fatty liver disease. The main objective of the study is to assess the relationship and interconnec-tion between hypothyroidism and chronic liver disease specially cirrhosis patients. All patients selected for this study were diagnosed as type of cir-rhosis in the line with the criteria set up by WHO. The study is comparative study containing two groups (1) cases and (2) controls. The result showed that TSH increased, T3 slightly decreased and T4 seems normal where the P value is 0.039,0.014 and 0.245 respectively. The mean of TSH levels of cir-rhotic patients is higher than the mean of non cirrhotic subjects and show significant difference. And also there are significant difference for T4 and T3 between two groups.

A Coupled-Mode Technique for the Prediction of Wave-Induced Set-Up and Mean Flow in Variable Bathymetry Domains

2007 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. A. Belibassakis ◽  
Th. P. Gerostathis ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Water Environment ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Flow Equations ◽  
Coupled Mode ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Wave Induced

In the present work, a complete, phase-resolving wave model is coupled with an iterative solver of the mean-flow equations in intermediate and shallow water depth, permitting an accurate calculation of wave set-up and wave-induced current in intermediate and shallow water environment with possibly steep bathymetric variations. The wave model is based on the consistent coupled-mode system of equations, developed by Athanassoulis & Belibassakis (1999) for the propagation of water waves in variable bathymetry regions. This model improves the predictions of the mild-slope equation, permitting the treatment of wave propagation in regions with steep bottom slope and/or large curvature. In addition, it supports the consistent calculation of wave velocity up to and including the bottom boundary. The above wave model has been further extended to include the effects of bottom friction and wave breaking, which are important factors for the calculation of radiation stresses on decreasing depth. The latter have been used as forcing terms to the mean flow equations in order to predict wave-induced set up and mean flow in open and closed domains. Numerical results obtained by the present model are presented and compared with predictions obtained by the mild-slope approximation (Massel & Gourlay 2000), and experimental data (Gourlay 1996).

scholarly journals Turbulence structure and interaction with steep breaking waves

2011 ◽  
Vol 674 ◽  
pp. 522-577 ◽  
Author(s):  
DJAMEL LAKEHAL ◽  
PETAR LIOVIC
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Flow ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Three Dimensional ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Small Scale ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Turbulence Structure ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Scale Breaking ◽  
The Mean

Large-eddy and interface simulation using an interface tracking-based multi-fluid flow solver is conducted to investigate the breaking of steep water waves on a beach of constant bed slope. The present investigation focuses mainly on the ‘weak plunger’ breaking wave type and provides a detailed analysis of the two-way interaction between the mean fluid flow and the sub-modal motions, encompassing wave dynamics and turbulence. The flow is analysed from two points of views: mean to sub-modal exchange, and wave to turbulence interaction within the sub-modal range. Wave growth and propagation are due to energy transfer from the mean flow to the waves, and transport of mean momentum by these waves. The vigorous downwelling–upwelling patterns developing at the head and tail of each breaker are shown to generate both negative- and positive-signed energy exchange contributions in the thin sublayer underneath the water surface. The details of these exchange mechanisms are thoroughly discussed in this paper, together with the interplay between three-dimensional small-scale breaking associated with turbulence and the dominant two-dimensional wave motion. A conditional zonal analysis is proposed for the first time to understand the transient mechanisms of turbulent kinetic energy production, decay, diffusion and transport and their dependence and/or impact on surface wrinkling over the entire breaking process. The simulations provide a thorough picture of air–liquid coherent structures that develop over the breaking process, and link them to the transient mechanisms responsible for their local incidence.

Wave-driven currents and vortex dynamics on barred beaches

2001 ◽  
Vol 449 ◽  
pp. 313-339 ◽  
Author(s):  
OLIVER BÜHLER ◽  
TIVON E. JACOBSON
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Shallow Water Equations ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Bottom Topography ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Vortex Structures ◽  
Water Model ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
The Mean

We present a theoretical and numerical investigation of longshore currents driven by breaking waves on beaches, especially barred beaches. The novel feature considered here is that the wave envelope is allowed to vary in the alongshore direction, which leads to the generation of strong dipolar vortex structures where the waves are breaking. The nonlinear evolution of these vortex structures is studied in detail using a simple analytical theory to model the effect of a sloping beach. One of our findings is that the vortex evolution provides a robust mechanism through which the preferred location of the longshore current can move shorewards from the location of wave breaking. Such current dislocation is an often-observed (but ill-understood) phenomenon on real barred beaches.To underpin our results, we present a comprehensive theoretical description of the relevant wave–mean interaction theory in the context of a shallow-water model for the beach. Therein we link the radiation-stress theory of Longuet-Higgins & Stewart to recently established results concerning the mean vorticity generation due to breaking waves. This leads to detailed results for the entire life-cycle of the mean-flow vortex evolution, from its initial generation by wave breaking until its eventual dissipative decay due to bottom friction.In order to test and illustrate our theory we also present idealized nonlinear numerical simulations of both waves and vortices using the full shallow-water equations with bottom topography. In these simulations wave breaking occurs through shock formation of the shallow-water waves. We note that because the shallow-water equations also describe the two-dimensional flow of a homentropic perfect gas, our theoretical and numerical results can also be applied to nonlinear acoustics and sound–vortex interactions.

PHYSICAL INTERPRETATION OF WAVE BREAKING CRITERIA

2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Nonlinear Wave ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Second Harmonic ◽  
Vertical Axis ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Spectral Structure ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Nonlinear Harmonics ◽  
The Waves

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.

Evaluation of Salivary Antioxidants and Oxidative Stress Markers in Male Smokers

2019 ◽  
Vol 22 (7) ◽  
pp. 496-501
Author(s):  
Fatemeh Ahmadi-Motamayel ◽  
Parisa Falsafi ◽  
Hamidreza Abolsamadi ◽  
Mohammad T. Goodarzi ◽  
Jalal Poorolajal
Keyword(s):  
Oxidative Stress ◽  
Uric Acid ◽  
Free Radicals ◽  
Antioxidant Capacity ◽  
Cigarette Smoke ◽  
Total Antioxidant Capacity ◽  
The Body ◽  
Total Antioxidant ◽  
The Mean ◽  
And Oxidative Stress

Background: Cigarette smoke free radicals can cause cellular damage and different diseases. All the body fluids have antioxidants which protect against free radicals. Objective: The aim of this study was to evaluate salivary total antioxidant capacity and peroxidase, uric acid and malondialdehyde levels in smokers and a nonsmoking control group. Methods: Unstimulated saliva was collected from 510 males. A total of 259 subjects were current smokers and 251 were non-smokers. The levels of salivary total antioxidant capacity, uric acid, peroxidase and malondialdehyde were measured using standard procedures. Data were analyzed with t test and ANOVA. Results: The smokers were younger and dental hygiene index was higher than healthy nonsmoking controls. The mean total antioxidant capacity in smokers and nonsmokers was 0.13±0.07 and 0.21±011, respectively (P=0.001). Smokers had significantly lower peroxidase and uric acid levels than healthy controls. In addition, the mean malondialdehyde levels in the smokers and nonsmokers were 4.55 ±2.61 and 2.79 ±2.21, respectively (P=0.001). Conclusion: Cigarette smoke produces free radical and oxidative stress, causing many side effects. Salivary antioxidant levels decreased and malondialdehyde levels increased in smokers, indicating the high oxidative stress among smokers compared to nonsmokers. Cigarette smoke had deleterious effects on main salivary antioxidants levels.

Effect of High Plane of Nutrition on Blood Biochemical Profile and Onset of Puberty in Prepubertal HF X Kankrej Crossbred Heifers

2019 ◽  
Vol 15 (02) ◽  
pp. 14-17
Author(s):  
K K Hadiya ◽  
A J Dhami ◽  
D V Chaudhari ◽  
P M Lunagariya
Keyword(s):  
Body Weight ◽  
Treatment Group ◽  
Plasma Levels ◽  
Age Of Onset ◽  
The Body ◽  
Monthly Interval ◽  
Control Group ◽  
Blood Biochemical ◽  
Lower Protein ◽  
The Mean

This study was initiated on 24 prepubertal Holstein x Kankrej crossbred heifers of nearly identical age (7-9 months) and body weight (130-140 kg) at University farm to evaluate the effect of high plane of nutrition on blood biochemical and minerals profile and the age at puberty. Twelve heifers were managed under routine farm feeding (control) and the rest 12 under ideal optimum feeding regime (treatment) that included extra 1 kg concentrate, 30 g min mix and ad-lib dry fodder. The body weight and ovarian ultrasonography together with blood sampling was carried out at monthly interval from 10 to 18 months of age to study the ovarian dynamics and blood biochemical changes. High plane of nutrition to growing heifers was beneficial in reducing the age of onset of puberty (by 2-3 months) compared to routine farm fed group. The mean plasma total protein and cholesterol concentrations showed a rising trend with significant variations from 10 to 16 months of age, where it got mostly stabilized indicating adult profile. The activity of enzymes GOT and GPT also rose gradually and significantly from 10 months till 14-15 months of age, and thereafter it remained more or less static till 18 months of age. The levels of both these enzymes were higher, with lower protein and cholesterol, in control than the treatment group from 15-16 months of age onwards. The mean plasma levels of both calcium and phosphorus increased gradually and significantly with advancing age till 16-17 months of age, with little higher values in supplemented than a control group. The plasma levels of zinc, iron, copper, and cobalt also showed rising trend with significant differences between 10th and 12th-14th months of age, and from 15th to 18th months of age the levels were statistically the same in all the groups with slightly higher values in the treatment group.

scholarly journals Comparative study between fascia lata and temporalis fascia in myringoplasty

2020 ◽  
Vol 36 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Ayman Ali Abdel Fattah ◽  
Abdel Hay Rashad Elasy ◽  
Ahmed Helmy Hoseini ◽  
Tarek Abdel Rahman Abdel Hafez
Keyword(s):  
Tympanic Membrane ◽  
Good Alternative ◽  
Fascia Lata ◽  
The Body ◽  
Temporalis Fascia ◽  
Fascia Graft ◽  
Fascia Lata Graft ◽  
Group A ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Group B

Abstract Background Repair of a perforated tympanic membrane (myringoplasty) can facilitate normal middle ear function, resist infection, and help re-establish normal hearing. Autogenous graft materials are the most popular graft materials used in myringoplasty because of their easy acceptability by the body. This study is conducted to compare between temporalis fascia graft and fascia lata graft in myringoplasty for patients with tubo-tympanic dry perforation. Results A total of 60 patients with persistent dry tympanic membrane perforation were included in our study during the period from January 2018 to May 2020. Patients underwent myringoplasty with temporalis fascia (30 patients as group A) or fascia lata (30 patients as group B). Patients were scheduled for follow-up visits concerning graft status, ear discharge, and audiograms. The mean postoperative air-bone gap in group A was 17.5 ± 4 after 1 month and 8.6 ± 6.9 after 3 months, while in group B, the mean postoperative air-bone gap was 17.6 ± 4.9 after 1 month and 9.4 ± 7.5 after 3 months. There was 90% success in graft uptake in group A, while there was 80% success in group B. Conclusion Using temporalis fascia is still the best and most trustworthy technique of myringoplasty compared to fascia lata graft. However, fascia lata can be a good alternative to temporalis fascia especially in cases of revision myringoplasty, ears having large perforation, or near-total perforation where the chances of residual perforation are high because of the limited margin of remnant tympanic membrane overlapping the graft.

scholarly journals Estimation of Motion and Respiratory Characteristics during the Meditation Practice Based on Video Analysis

Sensors ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 21 (11) ◽  
pp. 3771
Author(s):  
Alexey Kashevnik ◽  
Walaa Othman ◽  
Igor Ryabchikov ◽  
Nikolay Shilov
Keyword(s):  
Respiratory Rate ◽  
Evaluation System ◽  
Body Movement ◽  
Absolute Error ◽  
The Body ◽  
Meditation Practice ◽  
Body Parts ◽  
Mental Health Training ◽  
Negative Thoughts ◽  
The Mean

Meditation practice is mental health training. It helps people to reduce stress and suppress negative thoughts. In this paper, we propose a camera-based meditation evaluation system, that helps meditators to improve their performance. We rely on two main criteria to measure the focus: the breathing characteristics (respiratory rate, breathing rhythmicity and stability), and the body movement. We introduce a contactless sensor to measure the respiratory rate based on a smartphone camera by detecting the chest keypoint at each frame, using an optical flow based algorithm to calculate the displacement between frames, filtering and de-noising the chest movement signal, and calculating the number of real peaks in this signal. We also present an approach to detecting the movement of different body parts (head, thorax, shoulders, elbows, wrists, stomach and knees). We have collected a non-annotated dataset for meditation practice videos consists of ninety videos and the annotated dataset consists of eight videos. The non-annotated dataset was categorized into beginner and professional meditators and was used for the development of the algorithm and for tuning the parameters. The annotated dataset was used for evaluation and showed that human activity during meditation practice could be correctly estimated by the presented approach and that the mean absolute error for the respiratory rate is around 1.75 BPM, which can be considered tolerable for the meditation application.

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