Fashioning Enemies of the State: Investigating Sartorial Subversion in Soviet States

2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ben Pulver
Keyword(s):  
Visual Culture ◽  
Early Modern ◽  
The Body ◽  
Government Officials ◽  
Youth Groups ◽  
Primary Documents ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Government ◽  
Soviet Russia ◽  
Harsh Criticism

As far back as 1867, early-modern fashion has been the subject of harsh criticism. In his Critique of Political Economy, Marx referred to fashion as “murderous” and as having “meaningless caprices” (Marx and Engels 1967). The Soviet states certainly recognized the importance of clothing to reflect and inform its citizens of the preferred modest lifestyle. The main purpose of this study is to analyze two specific cases of sartorial resistance in two Soviet societies. Specifically, I will be examining the case of Allerleirauh (1980-89) in East Germany, and the Stilyagi (1940s-1960s) in Soviet Russia. In order to test the differences and similarities in the sartorial subversions, I will analyze a number of primary and secondary documents. There are four forms of primary documents that I will analyze: state-run magazines, periodicals, and photographs (both state-sponsored, and fringe), from the GDR and Soviet Russia. My interpretation— of the visual and textual responses to the youth groups who subverted the sartorial codes of the GDR and in Soviet Russia— has led me to propose two main speculative-conclusions. First, the responses by the government, such as the satirical cartoons of the Stilyagi, reveal the extent to which government officials recognized, and felt threatened by, the potential potency of dress to cause political disturbance. Second, the reactions of condemnation towards the fashionably-dissident makes salient the recognition that visual culture and semiotics in fashion, particularly when the body (as a sort of canvas) is implicated, can yield politically-threatening influence.

scholarly journals To the question on the origins of regional cultural policy of Yakutia (XVIII – early XX centuries)

2020 ◽  
pp. 141-147
Author(s):  
Andrian Afanasievich Borisov ◽  
Tat'yana Vladimirovna Pavlova-Borisova
Keyword(s):  
Cultural Policy ◽  
Early Stage ◽  
Service Class ◽  
Government Officials ◽  
Cultural Processes ◽  
Regional Community ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Traditional Cultures ◽  
The Government ◽  
The Russian Empire

This article is firs to discuss an early stage of origination of the regional cultural policy of Yakutia in the Russian Empire of the XVIII – early XX centuries. Emphasis is made on the regional community: the representatives of traditional cultures – peoples of Yakutia and representatives of Russian culture (service class, government officials, taxed estates). The subject of this research is the historical prerequisites of such policy in the region, as well as the government structures that realized its key trends. The research is carried out in the all-Russian context, namely the context of transformations that took place during the Governorate Reform of 1775, as well as further evolution of the local administrative authorities that carried out cultural policy in the region. The questions is raised on the dynamic development of cultural processes in this suburb of the Empire, where the traditional cultures influencing the representatives of Russian provincial community, simultaneously became familiarized with the cultural trends from Russia. Despite the previous perceptions on the cultural backwardness of Yakutia as an imperial suburb, the conclusion is made on the relatively successful actions of imperial authorities in this field.

scholarly journals Corruption Crime Eradication by Corruption Eradication Commission Through Red-handed Catch Operation on Bribery Action

2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (2) ◽  
pp. 319-329
Author(s):  
Kamaluddin Abbas
Keyword(s):  
Subject Matter ◽  
Action Control ◽  
The State ◽  
Financial Loss ◽  
Government Officials ◽  
The Public ◽  
A Value ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Government ◽  
Fundamental Consideration

The government has made many laws and regulations, but corruption issues cannot yet be controlled. Police and Prosecuting Attorney Institutions have not yet functioned effectively and efficiently in eradicating corruption. Therefore, the public hopes Komisi Pemberantasan Korupsi (KPK)/the Corruption Eradication Commission eliminates the crime. KPK is considerably appreciated by the public due to Operasi Tangkap Tangan (OTT)/Red-handed Catch Operation to many government officials involved in bribery action, but the subject matter thereof is whether the OTT is in line with the fundamental consideration of KPK founding pursuant to Law Number 30 of 2002 as updated by the Law Number 19 of 2019 in order to increase the eradication of corruption crime causing the state's financial loss with respect to people welfare particularly KPK powers pursuant to the provision of Article 11 thereof, among others, specifying that KPK shall be authorized to conduct inquiry, investigation and prosecution on corruption crime related to the state financial loss of at least Rp 1,000,000,000 but in fact many OTTs performed by KPK have a value of hundred million Rupiah only and even there are any cases below Rp 100,000,000.-, and bribery action control through OTT being more dominant if compared to the state's financial corruption is not in line with the primary consideration of KPK founding, and similarly the OTT below 1 billion Rupiah doesn't conform to the provision of Article 11 thereof.

Clean Bodies

2020 ◽  
pp. 83-112
Author(s):  
Susan North
Keyword(s):  
Early Modern ◽  
The Body ◽  
Early Modern English ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Medical Books

Early modern English medical books are full of advice about cleanliness of the skin, the subject of Chapter 4. It was considered vital for the survival of infants and insisted upon in books dedicated to childcare. Babies needed washing and/or bathing with every change of their nappy/diaper. Surgeons, responsible for the external health of the body, also recommended regular washing of the skin. Washing performed the necessary function of removing sweat, a form of excretion, as well as preventing and treating skin ailments such as the itch, morphew, and scabies. Bathing was considered a particularly effective method of cleaning the skin and the literature on this subject is examined and reassessed.

Women, Art and Observant Franciscan Piety

2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kathleen Giles Arthur
Keyword(s):  
Visual Culture ◽  
Early Modern ◽  
Social History ◽  
The Body ◽  
Body Of Christ ◽  
Archival Research ◽  
Religious Women ◽  
Art Objects ◽  
History Of ◽  
Women Patrons

Caterina Vigri (later Saint Catherine of Bologna) was a mystic, writer, teacher and nun-artist. Her first home, Corpus Domini, Ferrara, was a house of semi-religious women that became a Poor Clare convent and model of Franciscan Observant piety. Vigri's intensely spiritual decoration of her breviary, as well as convent altarpieces that formed a visual program of adoration for the Body of Christ, exemplify the Franciscan Observant visual culture. After Vigri's departure, it was transformed by d'Este women patrons, including Isabella da Aragona, Isabella d'Este and Lucrezia Borgia. While still preserving Observant ideals, it became a more elite noblewomen's retreat. Grounded in archival research and extant paintings, drawings, prints and art objects from Corpus Domini, this volume explores the art, visual culture, and social history of an early modern Franciscan women's community.

Denaturalising Security

2020 ◽  
pp. 73-102
Author(s):  
Charlotte Epstein
Keyword(s):  
Early Modern ◽  
Scientific Revolution ◽  
Thomas Hobbes ◽  
The State ◽  
The Body ◽  
Natural Right ◽  
State Practice ◽  
Modern Thought ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Way

This chapter assesses how security was established as the first absolute and natural right of the subject. Thomas Hobbes remains in focus, insofar as he articulated the furthest what had already become an established dogma of early modern thought, notably in natural right theories, and of nascent state practice. The chapter then considers the different kinds of natures that troubled the enterprise of naturalisation. For nature was also appearing, as a result of the scientific revolution, as a source of disorder. It was no longer simply the stable referent for the task of political ordering. This new, epochal instability in the constructions of nature and the way it was addressed by Hobbes in his epistemological writings contains resources for short-circuiting the naturalising work that Hobbes, amongst others, was engaged in. These resources include Hobbes’s nominalism, which marks him as the original constructivist, and his critique of universals, including ‘paternal dominion’, his term for patriarchy. Hence, the purpose of the chapter is to parse the initial naturalisation of security as the subject’s constitutive right, in order to denaturalise it. Ultimately, Hobbes played a central role, not only in theorising the state, but in securing what the author seeks to unsettle with this book: the body as history’s great naturaliser.

On the Tones of certain Languages of Burma

1920 ◽  
Vol 1 (4) ◽  
pp. 91-106 ◽  
Author(s):  
L. F. Taylor
Keyword(s):  
The Body ◽  
American Oriental Society ◽  
Asiatic Society ◽  
The North ◽  
Preparatory Stage ◽  
Chinese Dialects ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Government ◽  
Vexed Question ◽  
Oriental Studies

[MR. L. F. TAYLOR, of the Indian Educational Service, was the official entrusted by the Government of Burma with the preparation of the gramophone records of the languages of that Province, which have lately been presented to the School of Oriental Studies. It was he, also, who prepared the valuable report on the Preparatory Stage or Linguistic Census, for the proposed linguistic survey of Burma. In the course of correspondence on these subjects, I appealed to him for help in the vexed question of the tones peculiar to these forms of speech, and he very kindly undertook a minute inquiry into the subject and forwarded to me the notes which form the body of this paper. As they were too valuable to be consigned to the obscurity of office records, with his permission I have arranged them into the form of an article. So far as I know these notes of Mr. Taylor's are the only attempts at illustrating graphically the tones of several important languages of Further India that have been published. In this connexion, I would also refer the student to Dr. C. N. Bradley's valuable articles on pp. 282 ff. of vol. xxxi (1911) of the Journal of the American Oriental Society and on pp. 39 ff. of vol. xlvi (1915) of the Journal of the North China Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society. The first deals with Siamese and the second with two Chinese dialects. In each the wave-lengths of the tones used in these languages as mechanically recorded in the Rousselot apparatus were carefully measured and plotted, forming curves or patterns of pitch which could be shown upon a chart. It is interesting to find that the results thus obtained by Dr. Bradley for Siamese closely agree with those recorded by Mr. Daniel Jones and Mr. Taylor.

scholarly journals Wheresoever the Body Is: Image, Matter, and Corporeality on Shakespeare's Stage

2018 ◽  
Vol 5 ◽  
pp. 11
Author(s):  
Matthew Wagner
Keyword(s):  
Visual Culture ◽  
Early Modern ◽  
Early Modern England ◽  
The Body ◽  
Complex Relationship ◽  
Specific Kind ◽  
The Past ◽  
Emblem Books

What does the visual culture of early modern England, and the ways in which that culture articulated specific notions of corporeality, tell us about the actor’s body on Shakespeare’s stage?  This article locates one answer to that question in the popular emblem books and the somewhat more rarefied cosmographical treatises of the day.  Digging in these sources reveals an understanding of the body that is grounded first and foremost in corporeality – the body, before it was anything else, was matter.  As such, I argue that the actor’s body on the early modern stage served as an instance of irrefutable and irreducible materiality, ‘lending’ its materiality to the abstractions and absences that Shakespeare’s theatre so readily ‘bodied forth.’However, as a wealth of scholarship on the body has suggested over the past few decades, things are not this simple.  The body appears in these arenas as a very specific kind of matter, and matter itself is shown to have a complex relationship to ‘form’, or the immaterial realities of life.  I argue here that the nature of the body-as-matter, and indeed of matter itself, is fruitfully understood in terms of two related early modern concepts: prima materia, and man as microcosm.  These ideas were most in circulation in the distinct but kindred fields of alchemy and cosmography, and their visual manifestations offer a perspective on the theatrical body that does not reduce the body to simplematter, but still acknowledges its profound materiality, and the effect that the body-as-matter has on stage-work as a whole.

scholarly journals Political participation of street vendors and Government officials (Study in Pontianak City Indonesia)

2020 ◽  
Vol 9 ◽  
pp. 472-478
Author(s):  
Elyta ◽  
Herlan ◽  
Burhanduddin
Keyword(s):  
Political Participation ◽  
Sentence Structure ◽  
Business Organization ◽  
Structured Interviews ◽  
Government Officials ◽  
Descriptive Data ◽  
Street Vendors ◽  
Close Relationship ◽  
The Subject ◽  
The Government

This study focused on the political participation of street vendors and government officials. The government officials are a person who has been appointed by officials who have the power with the aim of so can do some business or activity, which is the duty and obligation of the government to achieve the state's goals. Government officials include the mayor, legislators, Subdistrict Head, Small-Subdistrict Head, Head of hamlet, neighbourhood, and some existing enforcement officials' administrative fields. Research methods in this observation type of research are descriptive qualitative, which is a kind of observation in the presentation of descriptive data in the form of a sentence structure that can be studied. The study was qualitative form an inductive approach in the design of sciencebased research and focused on the understanding of the experience. In this observation that an informant is the ethnic Malay community. How to get information using purposive sampling techniques, which means making the subject of research that has been included in the category. As for the informant is ten hawkers. The method used is shaped informant interviews with technical guidelines to help conduct interviews that comply with the standards with questions directly—using structured interviews to obtain information regarding viewpoints, insights, and experiences that provide in the form of oral or greeting openly. The escort process of data collection is done by selecting informants by the categories of samples as well as confidence in the informer. During the interview process, researchers used a tape recorder and a small note which serves to describe the current conditions when conducting interviews. The research found the close relationship between the level of income with connections made hawkers and political officials. Matters relating to the administrative officer who became the talk of the form of business organization means that issues relating to the license, places, and anything that can be used as a business.

scholarly journals Travniki, Travniki and Travniki: Herbals, Herbalists and Herbaria in Seventeenth-Century and Eighteenth-Century Russia

2018 ◽  
Vol 6 ◽  
pp. 58-76
Author(s):  
Rachel Koroloff
Keyword(s):  
Eighteenth Century ◽  
Early Modern ◽  
Natural World ◽  
The Body ◽  
Scientific Methods ◽  
Secondary Sources ◽  
Medical Botany ◽  
Body Of Knowledge ◽  
Physical Form ◽  
Primary Documents

This essay provides a sustained investigation of the term travnik, a capacious word that came to mean herbalist, herbal and herbarium over the course of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Though different in physical form, all three were united during this period by the body of knowledge they contained about the botanical world. Taken togetherthey reveal the ways in which knowledge of plants, from folk collecting traditions, to medical botany, to binomial nomenclature, was generated in the productive tension between foreign expertise and local knowledge. The focus here on translation highlights the diverse array of influences that contributed to the early modern Russian conception of the natural world. The travnik as herbal is explored through two centuries of secondary sources, while the travnik as herbalist relies heavily on published primary documents. The third section on the travnik as herbarium focuses on eighteenth century herbaria and the transposition of new scientific methods onto older forms of knowledge making.

Visceral visions: art, pedagogy and politics in Revolutionary France

2018 ◽  
pp. 294-310
Author(s):  
Dorothy Johnson
Keyword(s):  
Visual Culture ◽  
The Body ◽  
Body Parts ◽  
The Arts ◽  
Human Figure ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Cultural Upheaval ◽  
Art Pedagogy ◽  
Actual Participation ◽  
Wax Models

In late eighteenth-century France, at the seeming height of neoclassicism in the arts with its goal of idealized form al’antica in the depiction of the human figure, an intensified fascination with the visual experience of viscera emerged.  Picturing viscera became increasingly common in visual culture.  These developments occurred during a period of intense political and cultural upheaval and concomitant violence and bloodshed in France. Graphic anatomical plates, prints, and caricatures as well as wax models of viscera cast from the body parts of corpses, were used for pedagogical instruction as were écorché figures, either sculpted or cast from cadavers. Paintings were made that engaged the subject of death and disembowelment. We also see the actual participation in dissection by artists as well as anatomists. Artists, anatomists, and amateurs (sometimes working in concert) produced compelling images of what lies beneath the skin for a variety of purposes and functions.

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